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later, Peter

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Everything posted by later, Peter

  1. I ordered the links as per "cal_look_zero" & they're do to me Monday or Tuesday... I am also on the look out for an impact wrench to help do the job (although I may just be using a nice ol' breaker bar)... that's the story so far. Thanks for the advice/help, gentlemen! later, Peter
  2. I guess I wasn't clear (that blow up helps a lot)... I'm asking about the links that are shaped like (parentheses) yeah those things.... I was told they're called rear stabilizer links but maybe not... later, Peter
  3. 1999 OBW Recently replaced rear shocks (one was broken)... still have the clunk noise... I can see daylight around one of the rear stabilizer link bushings... (I imagine the others ain't too good either) So, the question: can the bushings be repaced (with too much trouble) or just replace both links? btw... already 181 & 1/2 k on the vehicle.... Thanks for the input. Later, Peter
  4. it's all about plastic gears... some debris may be jammed into those gears keeping them from spinning. It is directly linked to the speedometer. If that works... well, the odometer works too (except if it doesn't).... it's not too tough to remove the cluster but becareful of the dash itself while doing the R&R.
  5. & another month down the road... a couple of speedometer needle drops to zero... & then most of the time: no speedometer. took it out did it again maybe 3rd times the charm? hope so... later, Peter
  6. 20-22 around town 29-30 hwy (ac on or off except up hills/off) use the cruise control whenever practical Sometimes on a long trip a bit over 30... 1999 OBW 2.5L
  7. so.... one month later & it's all happening again. I figured my solder joints had come undone... I took it all out again. (even more fun the 2nd time around... solder looked intact. lost 3 of 4 screws putting the diplay back in & lost the magnet I was using to find them... oh well. seems to work now... hope it lasts this time. later, Peter
  8. Just did the soldering task... seems to be working so far.... (although the odometer seems to be a bit wacky)... man oh man, there must be an easier way to accomplish this... perhaps an 8 year old's hands would work better/quicker/easier... less physical damage to my own hands.... good luck to me.
  9. 179k on a 99 OBW... no overheating/headgasket problems... when I purchased this car, I asked everyone I could find (parking lots, etcetera) if they have had any problems... only heard about the cup holders... & some cv joints. enjoy the ride. later, Peter
  10. I use the brake booster vacuum hose when I do my "Seafoam" intake procedure... seems to work well enough.
  11. Picked up an alternator this morning (near by Subaru dealer who insisted it's $99 or $94 or, in the end $83)... Installed it (getting quick at this task) & drove about 25 miles... all is well (so far). I also realized that my speedometer was constantly working... It was intermittent before... drove well but no idea of speed. Now I wonder if "no speedo" was a symptom that is now fixed or a symptom of another (& more to the point) problem that created the main problem. I'll find out soon enough, I suppose. later, Peter (thanks to all of you that offered suggestions)
  12. I was told by the service manager of the near by dealership, that my Subaru & the recall didn't mesh.... Today, I called the parts department, remanufactured 3 year warranty alternator is $99... seems like the right deal to me ("lifetime warranty & 178K may just mean 3 years or so)... Now, if I can only convince myself that the problem is truly the alternator & not something other flukey thing.... lose power (notice the radio dying first)... then the guages go & dash lights (at trans temp/abs) blink & light up, car jerks, stalls & requires a jump to get going again (runs fine after re starting). I checked the out put at the battery last time it stalled 11.75 volts. Brand new battery. Replaced (junk yard) alternator... after it's going again: alternator & battery 14.6(ish) but good. oh what to do what to do.... would love to think that replacing the alternator (again) would resolve the issue. Thank you ALL!
  13. Seems as though my second wrecking yard alternator is *intermittently* dropping out... so, do I buy another one ($30 - $45) or blow the $165 at NAPA (original case but all new guts & lifetime warranty) or the O'Really (rebuilt in China) $132 w/lifetime warranty... My '99 OBW has 178k OR any other alternate sources? Thank you...
  14. Hmmm. Well, according to the local Subaru dealer "the recall does not apply to my car".
  15. '99 OBW... Battery & Brake light on. drove to the "test for free" place. They said I needed an alternator... drove home (18 miles & no problems). Cleaned & tightened all connections & found the postive battery connection to be loose. It's all good now, yeah right. Was driving out to pick up a used alternator when guages stopped, dash lights came on... trouble in paradise... pulled off the 4 lane highway. Called a friend to pick up the alternator & removed the source of the trouble.... new one in. Every thing looked, ran & moved well (after I tightened the belt to get rid of the squeal)... A week later (more or less) the car wouldn't start after sitting for 3-4 minutes... jumped it. Got it home & decided I had killed the battery. Since it was only 3 months old, I got a free exchange. What the ? Decided that 15.4 volts at idle & 12.6 revving the engine was wrong... another free exchange (60 day warranty) I put the next alternator in during a freak snow shower.... Hope it's done, although... R&R is now down to 42 minutes. Thanks for all your time, wisdom, joy & help.
  16. 1. Rear struts '99 OBW (automatic)... how tough to do. the book looks fairly easy but the tire guy (that discovered the problem) said it was $750 & lot of work & special tools (he's a pretty honest guy... I think) B. where's the sensor for the keyless remote? My remote's working intermittently so I'm thinking I need to clean/clear the sensor area. thanks, my Subarubuddies. later, Peter
  17. 166K no issues ever (normal mantainace). suddenly keyless fob works occasionally speedometer intermittent power antenna doesn't always go fully or fully down (this has been a small problem for a while about 2" worth now it's pretty much a foot or so) PLUS after all this started (a couple of weeks ago) I had a hard start & then 20 minutes later... no start. New battery installed... no starting issues since. (3 days). any ideas? thanks. Later, Peter
  18. seems simple enough... I know I'll leave something out or won't realize something I should have done prior to not doing it. It looks like tomorrow (in the of the morning). Decided to do it this evening: Crap! that was too easy. ALMOST forgot to retighten the Alternator but other than that... pretty easy & quick. $25 & 25 minutes. too cool for school
  19. a bolt from the cover over the P.S. belt somehow fell behind the P.S. pump's pulley causing all sorts of havoc. the upshot (aside from a new belt) is that the pulley is a bit wonky. Threatened (by 2 mechanics) that not only would this cause me to throw belts but would wear out the bearing (in the P.S. pump) as well. the "stealership" wanted $110 for the pulley & nut & $70 to install... a trip to the wrecking yard yielded a flat pulley. Now... is it as simple a blocking the pulley & undoing this one acorn nut?? Any other suprises I should be expecting? grease the splines in the shaft? toque specs on this? hep. need a little hep here. thanks, Peter '99 OBW
  20. bueno, oui, chow mein... also I axed to learn dis at Click & Clack's skool o' Enkliches
  21. OK, here's the follow up.... It's my wife's car, I'm out of town & trying to diagnose/resolve over the phone... talked to her about the "vent tube syndrome" & so she took/brought the car to a mechanic she trusts... 1. NOT the at dipstick but the transaxle... B. he put a larger o ring on & refilled the case III. so far (2 days but our house is 40 miles round trip to town & like 60 miles r.t. to the mechanic) the stick is stuck. Hope this was the rightful answer... Thanks. Later, Peter
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