later, Peter

but you know Ford's came up with the same code #'s... none available for cheap though. I think it has to do with which manufacturer signed up with which security (keyless remote) company. Later, Peter GM, huh?

you can all join in with. It's very simple & I hope it's new. (my apologies to Dave Mason) I was having trouble finding another keyless remote for the '96 OBW. Ebay was driving me nuts with different #'s on the back ("oh sure it'll work" "I don't know check with your dealer") SO: I searched for a keyless remote with matching #'s (GOH-MM6 for mine) & low & behold.... CADILLAC! you betcha... less money no hassles. Just came in from reprogramming it (another breeze) [& some guy wanted to sell me the "reprogramming procedure"] and: IT DOES WORK!!! I reprogrammed twice because it only opened the driver's door (you reading this Martin) so I did it again... now I can get the dog out of the back with out the key! SO COOL!! Later, Peter

PM back at ya...GOOD LUCK! later, Peter

Those are the two that'll fall down by the air bag brain... careful. Just did this gig... I found one of the two that dropped. Later, Peter

I bought a '96 OBW last week.1. I had the same issue: I reset/reprogrammed the remote switch (email me if you need directions... quite easy) BUT I also think there's a relation to the key you use. The original key is no problem but the newly cut key (from the original) acts more like the "valet" key. 2. This could also be a vacuum leak... check the hoses. listen for the whooshing of leak... 3. Headgasket failure is the theory of fear of all overheating Subarus (especially Phase I) not to say it isn't BUT (especially if the temp guage returns to normal at faster speeds): fan, radiator, coolant leak, bad timing (which could also cause the funny idle), thermostat, AIR IN THE COOLANT SYSTEM (very dangerous to the system but can be "burped" out) are other causes for overheating.... Perhaps you need a new mechanic or just a second opinion (any good radiator shops near you, better yet, any GOOD Subaru specialists (not dealers)??? Take care of the overheating issue first, then the idle. Later, Peter

There is a cheap (10-15 bucks) unit out there. a cup (resevoir) attaches magnetically to the wheel & has a tube running from the bleed valve. I never used it for brakes (I tried to syphon some over filled oil) but it would appear to keep air out by keeping the brake fluid in the brake lines via the resevoir.... I would think some rubber hose (right diameter) & a jar of brake fluid would do the same. Later. Peter

Skip:sorry for the confusion... it's just my way. I got a MM6 remote with the car (needing to be reprogrammed) that works but I will need another (two drivers that tend to misplace keys [keep a key in the car?]) I have seen them on ebay but mostly the same GOH-M24 as yours... that was my question... can I reprogram one of those to operate with my vehicle? I would have attempted to try yours (fair price) to test my theory but not comfortable working out the theory for the $BUCKS of ebay (+shipping)... just my scatter brained idea. Later, Peter

SKIP:I reprogrammed the remote that came with the car (GOH-MM6) so the question is: Can I reprogram a GOH-M24 remote to operate this car's lock mechanisms? IF yours is inexpensive enough, I'd give it a try. Let me know. Later, Peter

Skip: I reprogrammed the one that came with the car (GOH-MM6) & now need another remote... so will the M24 reprogram to operate my vehicle's locks? If yours is inexpensive enough, I'd give it a try. Let me know. Later, Peter

Ok. 1. what's the difference (IF ANY) between a 95 - 98 (# on back) GOH-M24 and a GOH-MM6? or can I reprogram the M24 to work on the '96 OBW??? B. anybody got one for sale or trade? THANKS! Later, Peter

WEll, as it turned out... I only needed to reset the the button beneath the dash while turning the key & pressing the remote while hanging upside down on the driver's side floor...ACTUALLY it only needed to be reprogrammed for some unknown reason. RWEDDY, I had just downloaded your link info (had a question regarding that) thinking that it would be my fun thing to do next Monday... So, here's to another Subaru OBW Phase I success story. Later, Peter

One year later & I hope this is the anwer... a question for you RWEDDY:after step 7: "you can NOT replace the unit with a new one or fix the old one" I'm guessing here, you left out "IF" you can not replace... but (obviously) you can repair the old one... you are the master that did that, right? Later, Peter

Yeah, tried that... not the answer. Later, Peter

I have a 99 OBW 30th Anniversary edition... more bells & whistles than you can shake a Toyota at... so to speak. That's one of the reasons I bought it. 58k & 6 years old... not a drop of oil on the garage floor... the original owner (I'm the 2nd) was maticulous about this vehicle. So far, I love it. it does it all except make the coffee... a Kamikariad's next vehicle for me. Later, Peter

two days of owning a '96 OBW. The remote may have worked (just heard the click & watched the lights)... but stopped (I guess). I tried to manipulater from inside driver door... all doors locked but only driver's opened. so I replaced the battery. lights flashed again & heard the clicking. All doors lock but only driver's door unlocks... Any suggestions? Reprogramming the remote? I trust you guys... most of you, anyway. Later, Peter Also this one seems to have more "pep" then the '99 30th anniversary edition (both 2.5's)... but no heated seats.

Well, it now appears as though I have courtesy dome light... for about a minute after shutting down the car, the light remains on (as does the dash door warning graphic). Could this be a "benefit" from the Sony people? 200+ watts & a light that shines. Later, Peter

Not earth shattering but I plan to wire a cd player into the '96 OBW... the haynes book has "typical audio system" wiring diagram... Biggest concern right now is which wire is always hot, which is only hot when accessory or ignition on.... & why the dash board graphic thinks there's door(s) open & the compartment dome light is on.... Any wiring gurus??? Later, Peter

I had a similar problem with a 4Runner (the precurser to my Subaru). Thought it was fuel. changed the filters (what fun) used seafoam (I am a fan) no difference. Talked with a local mechanic: "It's ignition, put on new wires" I did no diff... He said:"try the plugs"... new NGK's & she ran like new. I assume next would have been the cap & rotor. Later, Peter

I now have the two subarus (96 & 99 OBW)... I am (& surely will be) looking for some minor parts (cargo cover, seat lock pull(?), maybe a door, wheels...& on.) Where do you all try for parts... most "recycling" yards are now boutiques... used sometimes costing more than new (sortalike Ebay) THANKS. Later, Peter

what's involved in programming or reprogramming a remote purchased off ebay? most listings tell you to contact the dealer to do the job. Is that necessary? Later, Peter

They're over a buck here in Central Oregon dealership but only 60 cents in Portland (must be the freight, huh?)... for half a buck why risk it? Later, Peter

I once had a transmission noise serviced by a dealer (International Harvester... talk about bulletproof) & the cluck that was checking it some how forgot to replace the trans grease after he checked for metallic residue (they said) anyway the DEALER put in a new 4 speed manual trans and a clutch after it burnt up.... & after they were convinced it wasn't "going to happen anyway"... Dealer's do have employees that make mistakes... we are all humans with that opposing thumb after all. Not that Cookie's problem was certainly the dealer's fault, gaskets have been known to breech... You get the point here. Later, Peter 99 30th Anniversary OBW 70k 96 OB Wan 147k neither has gotten headgaskets... yet.

I now own two Subaru Outbacks with the 2.5. I was "blown" away when I saw all the posts about the impending doom I should expect from this engine's H.G.... so I just started talking to anybody with this type engine in my area... most with over 140k+ with no problems...NONE! regular servicing is about all most of these people have had done. There is also another post by a pilot who uses this engine in planes (now that is scary) & believes that the gasket failure has more to do with faulty coolant changes that allow air to be trapped in the system... see multiple posts about "burping" the system (especially Setright's). This IS a design flaw but readily overcome with some extra effort. In the meantime, the '99 30th Anniversary OBW is comfortable & posh (great sound system too)... the '96 OBW is the local transportation with a "jest a bit" more security than the old Mazda 323 2 door. I'd say, if you like it, enjoy it... But, if you spend your time staring at the temp guage (like I used to do) or get caught up in the doomsayer's... maybe you should blow it off. However, NO car is NOT going to have some mechanical problems at some point... Later, Peter

as I recall, I did copy that post so I'd be more prepared for the task... I have found that your posts & responses tend to be more to the point of factual information & a little less emotional replies...Thanks for that. Later, Peter

I did a search but didn't find any responses to the pilot's (A. Wick) statement that the overheating & warping of the head was due to air left in the cooling system. This would indicate that the headgaskets were not faulty but operator (or mechanic) malfunction when changing out the coolant... leaving just the least bit of air in the system causing the problem. He indicated that a special purging system needed to be installed (just in case?) I have seen quite descriptive posts regarding the replacement of coolant (burping the system)... Is this the real answer? does it only amount to a VERY thorough coolant refill? Since other vehicles have this problem (resolved with this method) & this man risks his (& other's) life to Subaru 2.5 engines.... you can't coast off to the nearest cloud, after all.... Later, Peter