Turtle

I'm going to give it another whirl, then I'll take it to Whippy Lube. Those guys love me, they make me come out to move/start my truck when it goes it, they're all too fat to climb across the bench seat (driver's side door broken, again...)

Not sure if this is an old trick or a new one. Anyway, if you can sort the overheating issue, try going through the test with the engine heating hose (not sure of the name, bear with me) removed. The previous owner of my coupe told me it was a trick that got several of the EA era subarus through NYC emissions. I've got the Carfax on mine to prove it worked with my EA82. Good Luck.

Greetings! Just did a search on what to use to remove the fill and drain plugs on my '86 GL rear differential. I did try the 1/2" ratchet drive trick and it does fit. However, there is enough play that I am concerned about damaging the plug further. Is there actually a tool produced by Subaru for these plugs? I think I'm going to order two new plugs from the local dealer anyway. Time is getting short to work outside on the car... Snow's coming!!!

Got a developing problem of a similar vein. I start my carbed 1800, it sputters for a moment, then dies. Second crank, it catches, then runs really rough for about two minutes. Once it idles at 1K, then I can pull away. I only mention because the problem is getting worse and I replaced the fuel filter and it did not help.

I may be interested in the fuel pump, gotta check if it is the same one as mine. I have a carbed '86 1800.

You know you need a better Subaru dealer when the service manager of the Subaru/Chevy dealer in town states that they do not work on Subarus over 10 years old... As he is standing next to a late 80's Caprice up on the lift. UGGHHH!!! At least the Parts Manager is willing to order things for my coupe.

IMO I don't think that there's anyone reading this who has a problem with their medulla oblongata. They would be in no shape to be reading or posting, as they would be more concerned with keeping their heart and lungs working. Or, at best, trying to keep their other ANS functions from jamming. Yes, I'm a wise-rump roast, but I also used to do hormone research... I could make your neurons glow... Muhahaha.... Also IMO, if you've got the cash to pimp out a car, and I don't mean over a period of years, I mean in a matter of months or weeks, just buy a better car, for Goddess sake. I wouldn't buy either of the two cars linked to this thread. For the 11K the WRX is going for, drop a good down payment on a S4 and get fewer tickets. It's probably going to take me years to get the parts I want for my coupe, which is indeed a 18 year old rusty mother, but that's part of the challenge and contributes to why we want to be in the old gen forum. That's a whole different type of cool than what's shown on the cover of Sport Compact Car. Jealous, I'm afraid not. As far as vehicles go, it either has to be pure unobtanium extoic, or art, for me to be jealous. The only sube I think that would qualify would be a six speed manual SVX, the other is a bike - Ducati MH900E.

I've come to a simple conclusion on the "ricer"/racer debate in my area. RICER: Ground effects are too low that they can't drive on most of the crappy roads in Vermont; car sits in a garage or, *gag* on blocks under a tarp in the driveway through the winter; "entertainment" units in the vehicle cost more than those in the owner's apartment. Racer: Still have their stock rims shod with a set of Hakkas hiding somewhere for winter; has the intake under the hood to make the hoodscoop actually DO something; realizes that the stereo should not eclipse the sound of the engine, just incase... $0.02

There was a time I was looking at one as well, passed on it in favor of my GL once I read up on the Justy. It seems that 9 out of 10 owners think they are disposable junk, and the 10th gets 200K with no problems. I've seen lots of 2WD Justys out there still running around, but very few 4WD. As for the ECVT, I read a thread on a car review board regarding them that indicated there's some sort of electric component or motor that goes in the tranny rendering it imoperative, not a case of it falling out while you are driving along. The writer claimed that the bushes in the part can be replaced and the tranny will be fine. Kinda makes sense, if that component fails under heat. However, how far do you have to filet the tranny to replace the part, and was this guy spreading fertilizer? Anybody heard anything like this? I suppose if this guy could do it, he'd have a cottage industry of rehabing Justys.

Follow-Up: Got the call at 5PM, starter is dead like Elvis. $225 in total to get it replaced. Probably could've done it myself, but the cost of the tow home (and pissing off the shop, making them push it out of the bay) comes close to the offset in labor and parts savings. :-\ Hmm... So the question is could I have damaged the starter during or after the install? I ran the car normally for about 100 miles with the dead alternator, starting it maybe a dozen times. The dead alternator seemed to spin free when I removed it. Could I have fried it with a bound/overtightened belt? When I first tried to start it I wondered if I had done this, but even after loosening the belt, I should've seen some movement. I'm going to presume that it was the original starter, hopefully the shop will provide some insight, even if they tell me I killed it. Well, now there's a fresh battery, fresh alternator, and fresh starter, so off we go!

Gave jumping a try - no dice. I could hear the click and a soft spinning noise. Went through, checked all the belts and appearance against the photos I have. Checked the connectors. Installed new cap/rotor/plugs, since I had the alternator out. Can't figure out what I did. A tow truck is on the way. The Subaru dealer in town will not even look at it, so I'm having a mom-and-pop look at it. Hopefully I just screwed up tightening/loosening something. Hate to admit defeat, but I need the car to run. Will post follow up.

Hmm... Had to swap pulleys, new alternator had two pulleys, old one had one. Same model number.... Installed the new alternator with the correct pulley. Hooked everything back up, adjusted the tension of the belts, went to start... *CLICK* No sputter, no movement, just click. Checked pulleys and belts, everything seemed the same. Reading 10V on the dash meter. Car ran fine last night and Sears supposedly charged the battery when I brought it in to confirm the toasted alternator. Is it possible to have toasted a starter or solenoid in the process of installing an alternator??? Please, help the inept, that's how we learn

Yep, electricity and I don't mix. Had a bad experience with a cow fence... Needless to say when I woke up I whupped the tar out of the nearest bovine with my trusty whiffle ball bat...

My OEM alternator bit the dust. Luckily, I have a big ol' DieHard Gold, which has allowed me to drive around for the last week. Got a rebuilt from Advance Auto. Any words of wisdom on the process or things to watch out for? I've got the Haynes manual, and this certainly looks easier than replacing the alternator on my Nissan XE. Turtle is a '86 Coupe GL 4WD, auto (*wimper*)

At least most of the teenie weenie hoopdie kids will eventually grow out of it, or at least daddy's money will dry up. If you have the opportunity, tease the 2" clearance Civic hoopdie into a race on fresh pavement. Watch them back out, not wanting to damage the kit that costs more than three of my vehicles combined. Personally, I like parking them in with my beatup nissan pickup. They're not going to risk damaging the paint by pressing it against my old truck. Even better if they have to be oh-so-suave in front of a love interest climbing across those racing seats to get to the driver's side. Much better if you have a friend to park on the other side. I'm really a nice guy, honest...