Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

CoupedUpSubie

Members
  • Content count

    160
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About CoupedUpSubie

  • Rank
    USMB is life!
  • Birthday 06/01/1990

Profile Information

  • Location
    Woolwich
  • Occupation
    Student
  • Vehicles
    1995 Impreza L Coupe 1.8
  1. Between the power steering pump and alternator there should be a stamp. If it says ej20 it is wrx, ej25 would be STi.
  2. Time-sert is definitely a better option. I did helicoil for a headbolt once on a EJ22 and it torqued just fine. The coil was only about half the length so we used 2 coils. To my knowledge the engine is still running just fine almost 6 months later. The car was sold after an accident.
  3. The 3 liter is a 6 cylinder I believe. To my knowledge it is either stock or make your own for those. No idea if any other exhaust portions fit either.
  4. Not sure if you have gotten it back in or not. Do you have the transmission lifted off the front subframe a couple inches? If not it sounds like the engine mount bolts are hitting the subframe which would cause about a 2 inch gap.
  5. I would suggest pulling a couple spark plugs and looking to see if they are covered in fuel or not, also check the plug gap. Another piece of information is what plugs do you have in it? Some are known to cause problems. Then go to your MAF and airfilter. Get a can of MAF sensor cleaner and clean the MAF sensor(even if you don't have a code, its still a good idea to do on occasion). Also check fuel pressure as engine rpm is increased, pump might not be putting out enough fuel as the demand is increased.
  6. 2-3 quarts low? You quite possibly did a lot of damage. Compression and leakdown test ASAP.
  7. The PCV valve is actually screwed into the intake manifold on the passenger side. It will be the largest hose with a screw in adapter(there are a couple). Bad valve seals could be causing the problem as well, I'm just not sure how much oil really can leak into the valve guides. How many miles are on it?
  8. That is exactly what is stopping it. Can you not remove the screw for some reason? With the steering wheel dropped all the way down it should come off and the new one go on fairly easy. Might take a bit of effort, it does on my impreza.
  9. You shouldn't need to touch the pinch bolt to get the knuckle free from the lower control arm. A long prybar with a tapered end or a wedge driven in between the knuckle and control arm should pop it free with ease. Also vibrating the control arm with a hammer helps free the ball joint from the control arm.
  10. Dump some PB Blaster or similar product in there and let it sit. Might take a bit of a bigger hammer to get moving.
  11. Being a 2012 I am sure it would go under warranty. I would say take it to a dealer. They should find and fix the leak. Also if your carpet got wet it will mold, which is undesirable in a brand new car.
  12. Not really. Pop the throwout bearing off and also remove the clutch and flywheel to check the seals in there. When you have something apart and its easy to check I recommend doing it. If you need torque specs either I or someone else can let you know, I would do it now but my manual is buried in my car and its freezing out.
  13. I was thinking pulling the engine. Just the prybars should work. Also the starter may need to come out if you haven't pulled that of. And the pitch stopper at the top of the trans.
  14. Make sure the engine is high enough for the studs in the engine mounts to clear the crossmember. When I pulled one I brought the engine and trans up then just put a bit of pressure on the trans with a jack. It is possible that they are stuck together with a bit of corrosion. Once you make sure its high enough you can insert a small prybar into any gap you have and use it to push the engine away from the transmission.
  15. Some '95 Impreza's came as OBD2. Especially the later build dates.
×