CoupedUpSubie

Between the power steering pump and alternator there should be a stamp. If it says ej20 it is wrx, ej25 would be STi.

Time-sert is definitely a better option. I did helicoil for a headbolt once on a EJ22 and it torqued just fine. The coil was only about half the length so we used 2 coils. To my knowledge the engine is still running just fine almost 6 months later. The car was sold after an accident.

The 3 liter is a 6 cylinder I believe. To my knowledge it is either stock or make your own for those. No idea if any other exhaust portions fit either.

Not sure if you have gotten it back in or not. Do you have the transmission lifted off the front subframe a couple inches? If not it sounds like the engine mount bolts are hitting the subframe which would cause about a 2 inch gap.

I would suggest pulling a couple spark plugs and looking to see if they are covered in fuel or not, also check the plug gap. Another piece of information is what plugs do you have in it? Some are known to cause problems. Then go to your MAF and airfilter. Get a can of MAF sensor cleaner and clean the MAF sensor(even if you don't have a code, its still a good idea to do on occasion). Also check fuel pressure as engine rpm is increased, pump might not be putting out enough fuel as the demand is increased.

That is exactly what is stopping it. Can you not remove the screw for some reason? With the steering wheel dropped all the way down it should come off and the new one go on fairly easy. Might take a bit of effort, it does on my impreza.

You shouldn't need to touch the pinch bolt to get the knuckle free from the lower control arm. A long prybar with a tapered end or a wedge driven in between the knuckle and control arm should pop it free with ease. Also vibrating the control arm with a hammer helps free the ball joint from the control arm.

Dump some PB Blaster or similar product in there and let it sit. Might take a bit of a bigger hammer to get moving.

Being a 2012 I am sure it would go under warranty. I would say take it to a dealer. They should find and fix the leak. Also if your carpet got wet it will mold, which is undesirable in a brand new car.

Not really. Pop the throwout bearing off and also remove the clutch and flywheel to check the seals in there. When you have something apart and its easy to check I recommend doing it. If you need torque specs either I or someone else can let you know, I would do it now but my manual is buried in my car and its freezing out.

I was thinking pulling the engine. Just the prybars should work. Also the starter may need to come out if you haven't pulled that of. And the pitch stopper at the top of the trans.

Make sure the engine is high enough for the studs in the engine mounts to clear the crossmember. When I pulled one I brought the engine and trans up then just put a bit of pressure on the trans with a jack. It is possible that they are stuck together with a bit of corrosion. Once you make sure its high enough you can insert a small prybar into any gap you have and use it to push the engine away from the transmission.

Some '95 Impreza's came as OBD2. Especially the later build dates.

I just resealed a 98 phase 1 ej22. Early 98 were all phase 1. ej22's from the later half of 98 have different intake manifolds from what I found, just like the phase 2 engines. These manifolds are like the 2.5 manifolds.

Dumb question. What is the fluid level in the transmission? If it is leaking as bad as you make it sound you should be low pretty soon. Check fluids, that will tell you what is leaking.

500 is a bit high unless it is 100% rust free, but your in NY, so I'm guessing its got rust issues. As far as the engine code ej22e should be phase 1 and ej222 is phase 2.

^^^ Everything there is correct. '95 1.8's are dual port.

Dropping the trans and realigning it on jack stands is a huge pain. And I just pulled an engine to do the clutch. Also as mentioned the separator plate on the backside of the engine is a common leak spot if it hasn't been replaced. If you are confident the leak is from between the engine and transmission then pulling the engine makes sense. Also these engines are pretty light as they are aluminum. A few recommendations: Do your best to undo the axles from the trans. It will make getting the nuts off 10x easier. Remove hood, airbox, windshield washer tank, and battery. PB Blaster will be your friend. Make sure you have an assortment of extensions as some bolts are buried under wires and other components making it a pain to get to. A universal joint for a 3/8" drive is useful as well. Inventory and track all your nuts and bolts as it is easier to put back together. Take your time and think while you do the job, it is easy to over look small things.

There are two scenarios, lift and no lift. If you have a lift and transmission stands and what not then by all means dropping the transmission is easy. If all you have is an engine hoist(also two strong guys, chainfalls, comalongs, heavy equipment) then pull the engine out instead. From there you can either pull the trans or replace the seal if that is whats needed.

Do you have good tires on it? Even with an AWD car crappy tires dont work in the snow.

I had a similar problem for the longest time. It took at least 3 months but the master cylinder went.

Last reported mileage was 70k in 1999. Been on the road atleast until 2011. No other information on mileage given. http://www.fordofkirkland.com/autocheck.aspx?vin=jf1gf6357sh811778

24 mpg in the city isn't bad. I imagine if you went on a longer drive without many stops you would be around 28 or so. I pulled the silencer(white pipe in your fender by the filter) and left the stock airbox with a K&N filter. I clean it every now and then but make sure it is fairly dry before it goes back in. An oiled filter is fine if you properly oil it. If your worried about the MAF getting dirty buy a can of cleaner for it and keep it in the car.

Either way the rust spots will come back. I just repaired mine in august. I cut away old metal and put new stuff in, sealed everything with a rust preventative. There are two types of bondo. You have the stuff with fiberglass in it and you have the smooth type. If you are filling large holes and need a decent amount of strength you use the stuff with fiberglass in it. The smooth type is for the last coat. Just remember the rear bumper mounts in that area. I had to make new mounts to replace the rust that was there.

Pretty much any 6.5" speaker should fit in the front doors as long as it is a OE replacement style. I know sony xplods will fit. As for the back you may need to get the spacer/mount for the speakers. Also may require different door cards if you don't have an opening made for them. Removing the crank handle is quite easy and does not require that special tool. Just grab your smallest flat head screwdriver and push the door card in a bit so you can see the clip. Slide the screwdriver into the loop and lever it out. Just be careful not to damage your door card by putting a gouge in it. One problem I ran into was the window caught my wires and ripped them off the speaker and out of the connectors. Run your wires so they won't come near any moving parts.