mr sarcastic

this car is now for sale! seriously though, needs rot repair in the rear and i don't have the ambition for it anymore. going to load all my subaru spare part in it and sell it. message me if you're interested, its located in Dover NH.

Woa, good to know about the full throttle switch. I kept everything automatic installed in terms of electronics, and left the switch on the shifter in neutral. That way the car operates as normal, just thinking its in neutral. I had to do that when I swapped my Audi to a 5 speed, the electronics on that car were way to complicated to try and eliminate.

The only reason I put any more thought into is because of the full throttle switch next to the gas pedal on the auto cluster. I pulled out the auto (mpfi) cluster and was going to throw in the d/r 5 speed (carb) cluster. I noticed the cluster I was just about to install would need the bracket for the full throttle switch, which was spot welded into the auto cluster. I had the cutting tools out when I decided to step back and take a second look.

with the AC button pushed, blower on 2 or 4, it doesnt matter, it stays hot forever. turn it to bilevel/defrost/heat, barely stays warm. stays just warm enough to keep the windshield clear but the rest of the car cools right off. i'm also noticing that on defrost there isn't much air being pushed up at the top of the dash. with the blower on 4, i can barely feel any air passing at all. this is whats making me think its a flapper issue, or maybe even a rodents nest. although i figure i'd smell that.

ya, definately a substaincial temp difference between the AC setting and all the other settings. i'll try running it at 2 and then switch it up to 4 to see if it cools down.

I've had this car for over a year now, and I went through last winter with this issue and I don't feel like doing that again. The issue is, my heat is barely warm when on defrost, or bi-level. But on AC its toasty hot. So I have to play a game when driving, defrost for a bit to clear the windshield then AC to warm the wife. The can is an 87 gl-10. I've done a couple coolant flushes, putting the hose to the radiator and heater core to make sure they're clear. The heater core was somewhat clogged, and after I cleared it it was a tad warmer, not enough to please the wife. My question is, would this more likely be a heater core issue or flapper issue? Does the AC pull air by a different part of the core then the defrost, defrost part could be a cold spot on the core? Or is a flapper probably hung up or out of adjustment? Pic cause everyone likes pictures.

If you don't hook up the roll back lock, you'll need to rig up a spring cause it acts as a clutch return spring. You won't be able to adjust the clutch correctly without something that pulls it back all the way. And take a good look at the pedal clusters before you swap them. I found that I could have just added the clutch to the existing auto cluster, not swap out the entire thing. Would have been way easier.

Alright, 03 and up was just a face lift of the 99-02's? Not really a big deal to me, not worth the extra money they're going for.

so, i'm in the market for a used forester. i'm not new to subarus, i've had more then a few EA's, but this will be my first forester, actually my first EJ. currently i'm finding them on CL for decently cheap, i'm looking to get into one for less then a couple grand after all is said and done repairs included. I'm finding a bunch for less then a grand, 98-02. i'm expecting those to either need head gaskets or rear subframe work, rust fixes, all not a huge deal to me. i'm also finding a few 03/04's for the same money or not much more. do these newer generation foresters have the same issues? i know headgaskets are an issue for pretty much every subaru, but i'm just wondering if its worth holding out for a 03 or newer? are they less problematic, or is the newer emission's equpment more sensitive. i personally like the simplicity of the older subarus, i would hate to get into a car that's impossible to keep the CEL off.

It's something everyone should know how to do.

That's seems easier. Or, negotiating something so she'll learn how to drive a manual. Both options sound easier then swapping the drivetrain.

I think a big factor might be everyone's tire sizes. I'm running a tire size that's a bit smaller then stock, so I'd need to get it up to 64ish to get a good time. Others with larger tires will be reading 60mph in the speedo, but actually going slower.

A comfortable air ride pressure should be 35-40, not sure why his would be bouncy at that pressure. We had air ride in my gti and it got harsh at 60. The less pressure the more comfortable, until you start bottoming out the struts/shocks. Sounds to me like the air struts were designed for a vehicle much heavier.

120 psi? Your brave.

That's a good idea, a stud with the permanent loctite.

I've been noticing that my d/r 5 speed makes a chattering noise when cold. Usually it's got to be in the single digits or less, when the car is first started it makes the noise. Is sounds like its coming from the bell housing/transmission, and it only happens in neutral with the clutch let out. As soon as I press the clutch, it goes away, and when it's in gear it doesn't seem to be making the noise. It still could be, but maybe I can't hear it over the road noise. When the car warms up, it's gone. The transmission came out of my old 86, I swapped it in this car over the summer. I did not change anything, clutch or throwout bearing, except for the tranny fluid. I don't remember this noise when it was in my old GL, but i didn't use it much as i'm using this car. A little google research says it could be gearbox rattle, anyone else experience this.

It's worth a shot. Just make sure you try and clean out as much of the metal shavings as you can. And try to get a bolt that is the perfect length, not so long that its way up in the oil passage, not so short that is not grabbing all the threads.

Maybe check your plug wires on the dizzy? Are they in the right order/rotation?

I've always used an air system antifreeze or conditioner in the cars I've had with air ride. You can usually get it at any place that sells truck accessories, they use it in their air brakes. If you find one that has silicone, get that. It'll help to keep the rubber seals in good shape as well as eliminating moisture. http://www.zorotools.com/g/00108297/k-G1795446?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw=%7Bkeyword%7D&gclid=CLm1qPSg3bsCFSbNOgod3kYAlw

Yes, I did do the swap. It ran awesome, cleaned up the engine bay, made everything much more simple. And only cost me $300ish.

That's why I said it'll get you by. It's not really a "better" carb then the hitachi... but its a new carb, easy to get tuned, and it simplifies the engine bay. It won't get you more power, but it'll get you back to original easier then messing with the original hitachi.

Weber swap will get you by....

Carbed or FI?

Sounds to me like you have a leak.

Being new to subaru I've found that to be true. These cars are very easy to work on. When it comes to switching out parts, they're like Legos. But, the parts don't seem to be very interchangeable. With most of my background in vw's, I'm used to the opposite. They didn't make it easy to change parts, but most stuff stayed the same over a long period of time and even when it's not, the you can use other generation parts with little modification.