kabarakh

Just wanted to follow-up in case any one else has this issue. It ended up being my crank sensor.

Yah its definitely a MAP sensor then, mounted just to the drivers side of the intake immediately after the air filter.

Double post sorry

It looks about the same amount off using the seam on the head, but nothing outrageous. And I believe it's a MAP sensor not MAF, it has a part number on it that when googled indicates MAP.

Ok, so yesterday I took a closer look at the timing belt and it looked like it might have been slightly off so I went ahead and removed everything, slowly compressed the tensioner (over like 2 hours) and then reinstalled everything... Tried a couple seperate times again to start it afterwards and got nothing... Today I got home and looked at the timing again, and lo and behold it looks to be off! What's the deal? I've done the belt before so I know my marks are on when I pull the pin on the tensioner. Is the tensioner bad? It's fairly old, but had never been used.... and the car ran great for two days. Could the computer have been compensating for it slipping, and then when we went out to start it the next day it was too far out for the computer to let it start? Photos below... it's the drivers side that looks to be off, by a tooth in the direction of the crank. Is that enough to cause a no start condition as well as produce a backfire out the intake? I would have thought that it would still run a tooth off, if badly. Thanks for any and all input!

Yeah it all seemed original as far as I could tell. I don't have anything to test the pressure with, but I'm sure I could find something. I was really hoping it was a sensor somewhere or something simple lol

Photos of my timing belt marks are attached. Can't get a good angle on the passengers side, but it's at 12, with the dash lining up with the crack/seam in the head. Crank and drivers came are both at 12 as well. Also pulled out the fuel pump to look a the O-ring, but I don't really see any canister like my research described... certainly nothing that was 2-1/8" at least. Everything else in there looked ok to me, no o-rings peeking out anywhere. Any other thoughts are appreciated!!! I have spark, my timing appears to be accurate, fuel runs out on the engine side of the filter when I turn the key to 'on' as well as when i'm cranking.... but It still won't start!

I just double checked the timing and got it all back together, and the lines are nuts on. I can take a couple photos in the morning. Anything else it could be?

Staring fluid got me a nice backfire that lit my airfilter on fire but nothing else. Pulled the timing covers off and everything looks good. Any thoughts on where to look next?

I checked for codes this morning and had nothing, I'll follow up as soon as I can spray some fluid into it.

Didn't have any starting fluid on hand this morning, bit I'll give it a try this evening. If it does fire with it what might that indicate? Visually seems like I have plenty of fuel on the engine side of the hose.

Just finished putting rebuilt heads on awhile back, new timing components etc. Car has been running great for a week and then overnight it won't start. I'm getting fuel to the TB, and I'm getting spark. Did I jump a tooth on my timing belt? Bad cam or crank sensor? Thanks! Clinton

A visual reference for any who need it: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.tigraionline.com/broken_sparkplug.html&ved=0ahUKEwiM4uL7z-_NAhUP-GMKHeMgA5UQFghEMAQ&usg=AFQjCNHZ15ArKRITnodmn84A1l2evPLyjQ&sig2=YHBd_FKep4weTUGoBiZvKQ

Just wanted to follow up in case this ever happens to anyone else.... the ez out got it. Still a royal PITA, but $20 in tools is much cheaper than a shop doing it.

So I'm stumped again. Returned the remanned alt and replaced it, but I did have them bench test the one I returned and they said it passed. Plugged in this new one and I Again have current draw. Is my luck really that bad or am I missing something? Would an inline diode on the sense wire help? I can't think of anything else to do offhand, except maybe wire it to my ignition so it only gets voltage when the key is on instead of constantly.

Well its definitely the alternator. After removing the field wire the draw disappeared, so I jumped the terminal on the alt to the battery stud on the back, omitting the field sense wire altogether... and the draw reappeared. So tomorrow I'll swap out alts again and then report back. Damned remanned units....

Yes, the current draw went away when the wire was unplugged. Ive tested it with my old maxima alt (3amp draw) my old oem alt (3amp draw) and my 'new' maxima alt from napa (3 amp draw). I swapped the plug for two spade terminals years ago to ensure I could use any alternator that fit regardless of the plug style, which is why I know it's the field sense wire. There is no change on the draw when I unplug any of the others. Perhaps I've just got bad luck and all three alts are bad? I can certainly go return/swap it out and report back if so.

Hello all, My '88 GL has had a current draw for quite some time now, but as I hadn't been using it much i'd just unplug the battery till it was needed. Now that ive bent the valves in the impreza however, I've started to work on tracking down the draw. Using my multimeter I narrowed it down to the alternator (maxima), which was very old and crotchety anyway so I replaced it with a remanned unit after reading that the diodes had most likely failed. Unfortunately with the new unit in I'm still getting draw, to the tune of 3amps. I've narrowed it down to the field sense wire, but I'm not sure where to go from here. Am I best off tracing that wire all the way and checking for shorts etc, or just I just remove and isolate it from the plug and route it from the alternator somewhere else to get its voltage? Thanks for any and all input!

Covers are off and no, sadly... I'm taking the heads to a shop for some valve work and I'm assuming it can get drilled out or whatnot there, but I'm trying to get it out beforehand to save on labor costs.

Got home to late to try yesterday, but I'll take a look this evening. Bound to be worth a shot, I think the socket was only ten bucks so even if I can't use it again it's worth it.

Theres a little bit of metal left bit not a lot. I picked up one of those universal sockets yesterday, but unfortunately it's too wide to fit into the tube. And I can't get an arc down in there to weld anything on, the EJ22 has them recessed in a tube down through the valvetrain. If it was my '88 it would be a much simpler puzzle to solve.

Anyone have any tips on removing a spark plug that has a missing hex head? One in my EJ22 wouldnt grab in my socket, and on further investigation it had the hex fall/shear off. Not sure what caused it, as it was all there when i installed it, but at this point I just need to get it out.

Well my valves ate definitely bent and I'm having a hell of a time finding used heads... after some serious hunting I've only found one set, and they also had bent valves. I have a quote to get the valves replaced and the heads refinished on my original heads for a bit over $300 in labor, plus parts. Alternatively I have a line on some 2.5 heads and a matching y-pipe for $200 and I'm assuming I'll still need to get those heads resurfaced if I go that route. Is there any benefit or loss to swapping out those 2.2 heads with 2.5's? I'm assuming my intake will bolt up just fine, but some of the research I've done indicates that I'll lose compression? It isn't that big of a deal if so as long as it will still run, as this is just a commuter car... I'm basically just looking to get it back on the road asap for the least amount of time, hassle, and money. I want to be 100% sure that what I'm doing will work beforehand. Thanks for any and all input!

Hi all, Car is a 2000 Impreza Outback, 2.2L Automatic. 240,000ish miles Yesterday while driving at 70 MPH our timing belt snapped on the freeway, accompanied by a very loud bang which I believe came from the passengers side of the engine, but could just have easily come from the drivers side or both sides. Car died immediately but we were able to coast to an offramp and get towed home after the problem was verified. Unfortunately we did try to start the car while on the side of the road before I thought to check the timing belt, so I may have exasperated the problem. I assumed it was something other than the timing belt because I bought the car 2 years/30,000 miles ago; the previous owner had the timing belt snap on him and the valves were bent. I purchased rebuilt heads from Shawn W and the mizumo timing kit from Ebay and did the belt and components myself.... unfortunately I got the non mitsubishi belt with the kit... Apparently I missed the memo doing my research at the time that those kits sometimes come with unlabeled belts that shouldn't be used, and now I'm paying for my mistake... Wish I would have found the articles I've read yesterday and today back when I did the install. Hindsight is always 20/20 I'm assuming at freeway speeds I'm dealing with bent valves on at least one head if not both... So the way I see it I have a few different options... 1. Throw a new belt on it for a compression test and keep my fingers crossed as its an automatic. Considering the banging etc that we heard I'm assuming this won't lead me anywhere except back to removing the newly installed equipment . If this is the recommended way to go for now then how do I go about setting everything to the appropriate marks to install the new belt? I'm assuming I can't just turn everything to top dead center, as if the valves are still where they were then me turning over the crank would cause the pistons to collide with the valves again. Do i do the cams first and then the crank or vice versa or...? The marks are fairly close to where they need to be already, but I'm afraid to do more damage by turning something i shouldn't or turning something in the wrong order. I have a buddy who has a kit with the Aisin water pump included from a 2.5 SOHC that he'll part with for $100, I believe it will fit without issues regardless of which option is utilized. 2. Assume that I have bent valves on at least one head, and go ahead and pull them both off and find some replacements. I already have a post out in the wanted section for this eventuality, as I don't have the tools or time for a valve job etc. 3. Assume more severe damage and drop a newer engine from somewhere in. 4. Call it quits with this car and buy something else. This is my Fiance's daily commuter, so I'm hoping to get it back on the road asap. My parents came to our rescue and we have a loaner vehicle for the time being, but I don't want to have to keep it any longer than necessary. Thanks for any and all help/advice!

On a side note also, the EA82 spfi manifold has fewer vacuum line ports on it. Is there any detrimental effects to t off the cruise control vacuum line for the climate controls? Or vice versa?