WANTONSOUPGUY

I know you probly got it all fixed up by now, but for any future readers, I would definately get a new mechanic. A simple compression test which takes 20 minutes per cylinder, if that, would determine if the cylinder has a bad valve or broken ring/piston. Ditch him.

excellent suggestions.....thanks for all your help

Hey all, I just pulled a misfire code from my engine, and i'm pretty sure the matter is resolved, as my 2000 OBW is running quite smoothly. Does anyone know how to reset the CEL? I tried in the past to pull the battery negative, but to no avail. My other option is to see if AutoZone can somehow reset it for me. Any ideas?

Maybe this will help someone with the same problem so they don't have to pull the whole car apart. My 2000 OBW Ltd. rear sunroof cover jammed one day....wouldnt open all the way...I was like, RRrrrr...tried and tried again to slide it with no avail...then I opened the rear moon roof up all the way and after it wouldn't shut cause the cover was stopping it! Ugh! Finally I opened the roof again, and slid the cover up and out the top. When I looked inside, attached to the glass roof are 2 small spring-loaded thingys, that apparently are supposed to 'open' up when your roof is closing, thus pushing the cover closed with it. Well, one of mine was stuck open, making it impossible to shut it completely...So...I superglued the broken one in the "up" position. Then I bent the 2 rear metal clips attached to the rear of the cover to make them straight, and re-installed it from above, gently sliding it in. Now it slides on its own with no help from the roof. I will miss how it opened with the roof and all, but tweaking it out without going to the dealer has helped a person with an empty wallet to get by without unneeded bills. Hope this helps another Sube dude.

Ive got a 2000 OBW...does the same thing from 1st to 2nd....Clik!....kinda hesitates to shift in on a cold day, but has been like this for like 50,000 miles,((since I got it)) so I will drive it until it explodes, and then I will deduce that the tranny needs rebuilding...I wouldnt worry about it till it doesnt shift...

I went with Napa axles...they were 1 inch SHORTER (measured lying flat on ground) than stock axles...which resulted in a blown axle upon a tight turn. They also seem to be built with greater tolerances in the axle teeth, which resulted in a slight grumbling vibration when at a stop, in drive (auto trans.), with the brakes on. I brought mine back to NAPA and installed Subaru remanufactured. Now when I drive (less my arm and leg for the axles) it drives smooth, no probs. Hope this helps.

I just tried replacing a front inner boot for a friends 97 impreza with a subaru brand one-piece boot...pulled the axle, removed the old boot, and how in the world do you get the one piece on? I think you would have to machine press the axle end off to do it (to get the new boot on). So we just bought a new axle...much simpler.

Well, I didn't take a photo, but i'm pretty sure they were about an inch too short...maybe the outer spindle was longer? Either way, one of them did blow up on me, which was the final straw for me to go get my money back. Strangely, my tranny fluid also went low (after a recent fill) about a quart. Maybe the vibration shook it out! Oh well. It's a used car. Stay away from aftermarket parts.

I figured it out, folks. The NAPA half-shafts are 1 inch too SHORT. I was told by the manager at Napa that the axles are made from subaru shafts, but this can't be true, because of the length difference and even difference in shaft thickness. Once I replaced both cheesy NAPA shafts with Subaru re-mans the shudder for the most part went away. (I must say though that the Portsmouth NH Napa was very nice and gave me a full refund for both shafts) :*) So thats it everyone...stick to Subaru parts...expensive, but it will save you a lot of frustration.

i am so glad to find this post. I replaced a half-axle on the front passenger side and immediately after it started vibrating at a stop with the brake on. Coincidence? I think not. Ran like a kitten before. Now it is driving me crazy messing with idle speed and sensors. BTW...no engine light and idle is at a strict 500 rpm with no problems at all starting. I think I have to go to the Suby dealer. Thanks for the post.

I have a 00 OBW which just blew up the passengers cv boot. I replaced the axle with a NAPA part, and now when the tranny is in drive and my foot on the brake the engine shudders...or rattles. It is almost like there is a vacuum leak or something (I checked and found none). It runs fine at all other speeds, but makes this shudder until I take my foot on the brake. What do you think? Did I mess up something in the ABS? Subarus always idle ridiculously low...mine is 500 rpm, but before the axle replacement I never had any issues with it. Anyone have similar?

I would like to add for anyone doing their first half-alxe job on a newer suby. My 00 OBW took me 9 hours (3 travelling for parts and 1 for stupidity). If you want to disconnect the lower ball joint to get the new axle in, and you feel you must hammer it to loosen it, make sure you put the crown nut or another nut over the threads of the ball-joint. Otherwise you will destroy the threads on the ball joint which will take you alot more time for ball joint replacement. Also ***very important***when you attempt to put the new axle on, make sure the splines match up with the hole. If you put the axle on it may look like it is lined up, but wont work because it needs to be flipped 180 degrees. I hope this saves someone the pain of having to pull apart and reassemble everything because of the spline thing. I have no service manual, but when they come out I will be the first in line.

I found with my suby that aftermarket rear pads fit too tightly in the pad grooves. This causes the pads to rub the rotor even when brake pressure isnt applied. I just drove 100 miles yesterday hearing squeaks that would only quiet for a moment after hitting the brakes. I will just grind the break pad tabs down just so that they slide freely and can retract easily enough so as not to "stick" to the rotor as it turns. Hope this helps...

Well, it looks like I "lucked out" as far as engine damage...all looks to be in good shape. I noticed that the intake drain holes are progressively smaller as they near the filter. I doubled the size of each one and hope I get to find some big puddles again. Thanks for the posts.

I have the same problem (exactly) on my 00 OBW. I took the rear brakes apart and lubed the brake slides and it went away. Then it came back 3 months later ....supposedly when there was enough dust and dirt to keep the pads from moving back into place after releasing them... perhaps a design flaw? Either way I am going to check my caliper out when I have time to blow. :*)