chaseman

Right but these would have had no oil pressure to them. They wouldn't have had a chance to properly pump up ever. Is there a way to bench test them?

Oh yeah , it's really windy and in the 20 minutes it was lying outside stuff blew in.

Picture of crud in cam tower oil passage

Long story short , car had very loud ticking. I had great oil pressure on a mechanical gauge. So I tore off the cam tower to change my oil ring , it wasn't bad so I took the cam out to check the oil passages and there was a big ol chunk off rubber or cured black rtv in in it. I have picture but I'm not sure how upload here from my phone. So considering the car was driven a 1000+ miles with no oil to the lifters. Should I replace them before I button it back up? How should they fell when I squeeze them? Solved! I finally got it back together and the driver side is absolutely silent. The only issue is without the previous extremely loud ticking I can hear the passenger side ticks now. So I gotta take off the passenger side cam tower and look it over.

Hello , so I've been only getting like 20 mpg if I drive really nice (less if I'm driving normal) in my 1986 4wd GL Weberized wagon. I've done the usual tune up stuff (plugs , cap , rotor , wires, fuel filter , cleaned air filter) The weber is running the recommended tuning I got from loyale27turbo's guide. I figured we were both at similar elevations so it seemed close enough. I've also recently replaced the (roaring) bad front wheel bearings it had , with some sweet sealed ones. I run normal sized tires at right below their max psi. Everything has fresh oil. All the front cv joints have been regreased and booted in the last 2 months. I've also replaced the timing belts (they're spot on) and changed the oil pump gasket. (not that it helped the ticking at idle , I think those cam tower o rings are bad) Ignition timing is set at like 16 degrees btdc. Battery voltage reads in the 14's with the car running Anyhow here's the actual issue , so someone gave me the idea to check the voltage at my coil. It's only 12.7v with the engine running around 1200 rpm and goes progressively down with more rpm. It also heads down with whatever accessories I turn on (heater fan , headlights , turn signal , etc) to a low of 12 volts at 2000 rpm. I bet it even heads lower with an actual load on the engine and not just revving in place. Also I dunno if this is related but my voltmeter jumps with the turn signal. Any ideas? I mean I thought about doing a relay set up to get full voltage to the coil (using the same logic as the headlight relay set up. Bypassing all the various connectors and ignition switch that add resistance and rob voltage)

another advantage is you can almost get away without a choke on a carbed vehicle when you have some form of cdi ignition like an msd box (along with a good coil). Or at least you could on my stang.

From what I know and a little bit of searching I don't believe they came with them. It's a somewhat common thing to install though by the look of it. Anyways since you didn't say what your car was , I guessed and be wrong off your avatar picture. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=oil+catch+can+subaru+xt+ea82

86 GL 235,000 miles complete with tick o death

I have no input but this thread had lots of ideas http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124058

Oh wow that's a cool app and not terribly inaccurate , at least compared to this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133027

Sweet , thanks for the update. I'll be doing what you did shortly. My car runs awesome apart from causing gunshot reports in my town.

oh thanks dude! This makes complete sense and I wasn't aware of the adjustable vacuum advance. I like the idea of having that extra adjustment available to me.

So did this fix the exhaust gunshot when you shift? Mine's an 86 carb'd GL and in an earlier post I read that the single vacuum advance dizzy is unique to 87? Mine only has the one vacuum port dizzy too.

shoot dude only a 100,000 miles , no wonder the tranny fluid worked. I'm at 233,000 and fairly sure I need to do that seal. Also yeah a nice dino oil will do you fine not that synthetic would hurt it or anything. It's all about having a good maintenance routine on fluids.

A little weird but I love this guy's adaptability

Whoops , I forgot to put that . 1986 Subaru GL 4WD Wagon I edited my top post too

Also another note on those bearings , I think the picture may be wrong for the bottom link cause it says 6207 2RS which I though was double seal while there would be Z's in there for shielded ones like the picture. I dunno

I don't have it apart quite yet , I do have a pdf of the whole process with pictures that the The FNG sent me. Pm me your email and I can send it to you.

Yeah they're the only bearing supply (apart from spendy part houses) in my town and I'm wanting to go for a sealed bearing. Well I usually love rock auto but it'll be cheaper with fastenal. Plus I'm not sure if you could get the sealed bearing from rock auto.

Okay so Thanks to The FNG with his pdf (that has pictures) of the repair manual's guide to changing out front wheel bearings I'm going get rid of the progressively loud roaring in the front. Anyhow's I'm stuck between what bearings to get http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=4126203 http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0474397 Both are double sealed "2RS" although the second one has speed rating of 11000 rpm compared to 8000 rpm. The only other difference I can find is one says it's radial ball bearing and the other says ball bearing. Late Edit: I forgot to say it is 1986 4WD GL Wagon

sweet thanks dude , I'll try and go about that way.

So whoever took out the tranny crossmember was rough about it when he took the bolts holding the that crossmember out and wrecked a lot of threads on the bolt . I imagine where it heads into the body those threads are messed up too. So when I stuck a new one in it didn't quite feel right. I want to do something about it. Is there enough meat in the metal to drill and tap? Or I had friends mention heli coil but I wasn't too sure about that. I'm just not quite sure what to do , I mean if I coulda reached the other end of the bolt I would have just put a nut and washer on it. And actually I'm fairly sure the threads are wrecked cause it seemed like I simply couldn't get it snug. This is on a 86 gl

Ha , Now that I've been driving my car it's completely likely i make less then 68 horses. Also another note is that is seems this Loyale just belongs to a local radio host and it was during a "horsepower week" of some town and it was a publicity stunt to throw his car on the dyno. So maybe if it was an well maintained enthusiast's subaru it would've maybe made 70 horses lol.

65 horses to the wheels...... I really hope my 86 GL is doin better then this or at least it does after the weber and exhaust are put on.

That's cool as beans man!