FlatFourFrenchy

I drive a 94 Loyale with a 92 engine in it. The seals seem to have been drying up on me lately causing lots of leaks. My main leak was just resolved this weekend resealing The Rocker Box to head connection is specifically the o-ring that was non-existent in the old passage to the camshaft. With that resolved I have always had a problem with my power steering pump and fluid leaking from it. Does anybody have any ideas were the best seal, gasket, or kit to resolve that problem is?

Painted an extra set of wheels and applied some Firestone Winterforce tires. Fresh plug wires and plugs. Still looking for the oil leak on pass side and hoping it isn't the rocker box to head gasket.

I am back to stock height and rims and have a set of Firestone Winterforce tires on the way. Bring on the snow.

Last Saturday I swapped in a good motor into my 94 Loyale out of a 91 Loyale. The check engine lamp was on since swap. Ran onboard code test and found code 55. Hmmmm? Exhaust temp sensor open or shorted. Got to pocking around and found that the 91 did not have a temp sensor where the 94 did. Easy. Swap engine wire harnes and drill and tap manifold and install sensor. Light fixed.

Finally dropped in donor motor without lifter noise and blown headgasket. It is just wonderful to lay underneath while its running and just smile. The two inch lift really helps with getting under it. Just the whrrr of the dry belts.

While old motor is still ticking away at 200k and oil light only comes on at idle I freshened up all of the front seals and timing belts on donor motor. It wasn't leaking but it is so much easier to do with motor on the stand. I went with genuine suby seals for oil pump and valve covers. The oil pump reseal went smooth. I found the pump oring seal split so I was happy to fix that now rather than waiting for the TOD again. I met the parts guy at Subaru and he was very new. His has been training on the new parts catalog so I had to work with him on the illustration on a car that when new he was still in diapers. All seals still availible at dealer and not stupid priced either. I am busy next couple of weekends and am looking forward to installing better engine and a tickless future very soon.

My 94 did the same thing. Cap had barely visible carbon tracks. Enough to make it hard to start when damp outside. Hasn't done it since replacing cap over a year ago.

If yours codes are all over the place I would start with checking all your grounds. I once had a 93 VW Eurovan. Started bucking on highway if I tried to keep it at any steady speed. After many attempts to isolate cause, I found that the chassis negative wire from battery was loose. My ecu was trying to find ground through the drive axles to the engine ground (-). It can make for a very simple and free fix if that is it. Good luck

My 94 does the same exact thing. Kinda just thought it was the nature of the beast. I know carburater cars have done this for years when the choke was a little off so that would lead me to guess that it ia a fuel delivery issue. Never really bothered me for the two minutes it lasts if I don't let my car warm up good.

Got my exta front hubs and rear drums drilled for six bolt wheels and got them all installed as well as some good used firestone destination a/t's in 225/70 15. Minimal rubbing with 2 inch lift. Will do some adjusting when we get back from pool. I'll post some pics then.

Maybe it is the rubber bushings that you hear. I have tracked thousands of noises and you will have to isolate it more. Does it make the same noise jacked up with wheels off the ground? During braking or accelerating or just steady driving?

the compass is dead on when compared to my Garman GPS, I still need to mount the temp sensor, but will probably put it somewhere up front around the bumper area When you push button and end on direction hold it and numbers will appear. They are for setting zone. Look on a zone chart and pic the zone that you are in.

On a 70° day high side might be over 200 and low side below 100. I don' have a chart handy. The bubbles usually indicate that system needs a charge. As using gauges, red=highside, blue= lowside, and yellow is for source of charging freon or recovering freon. To check pressures just turn valves closed or the precious freon will dicharge out yellow hose.

Yes, the two lower lines at switches come from one and are t connected to make the two.