stickedy

Hello! What injectors are used in the EJ201 engine? Are these Bosch or Denso? I found on ebay these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-NEW-1000cc-BOSCH-Fuel-injector-E85-OK-WRX-LIBERTY-2-0-2-5-L-NA-EJ201-EJ251-/161924057720 Are these the correct types? Thanks a lot!!

Hello! I have a problem with my IACV / unsteady idling after swapping my engine (from MT car to AT car), see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/159399-swapping-engine-from-manual-transmission-to-automatic-transmission/ Everything is fine so far, but the engine is idling bad, alternating between about 400 and 1.400 rpm constantly. Sometimes, however, it works fine... The ECU throws me the error code 35 for the IACV. I already swapped over the IACV from the "AT" engine in an try to correct the problem, but it had the same part number and it changed nothing. I was searching the FSMs for any hint how and where to find the issue. But I didn't find any difference between AT and MT except that there should be some voltage with AT when testing it. However, I can't find any difference in the wiring diagrams. I also changed the spark plugs and the ignition wires just in case and to be sure it's not somehow related. Please, do you have an idea what this problem is caused by? I'm a bit stuck with this problem... Thanks!

Hi! Sorry for replying late, I was busy the last weeks. I had successfully swapped the engine, everything is fine so far. But I have a problem with the IACV. the engine is idling bad, alternating between about 400 and 1.400 rpm constantly. Sometimes, however, it works fine... The ECU throws me the error code 35 for the IACV. I swapped over the IACV from the "AT" engine, but it had the same part number and it changed nothing. I was searching the FSMs for any hint how and where to find the issue. But I didn't find any difference between AT and MT except that there should be some voltage with AT when testing it. However, I can't find any difference in the wiring diagrams. Please, do you have an idea what this problem is caused by? I'm a bit stuck with this problem... Thanks! Edit: To answer the last question, both cars where the generation from 1989 to 1994, the donor car a 1992, the receiving one an 1994, both first gen and nearly identical (except for the AT and air suspension). No problems with any EGR or such things, both were plain EJ22 engines.

Yeah, that's for sure. And learning something new The overheating car has no a/c so I have to swap that over also.

I have to swap over my my engine (2.2 1st gen) from a manual transmission car to one with automatic transmission. Are there any thing I have to look at or which are problematic? Are there any fluids going out when separating the engine from the auto transmission? I have done a couple of EA82 swaps before, but I had not to deal with automatic transmissions yet. Thanks!

So, I verified it: Bubbles in the coolant expansion reservoir when overheating. Tomorrow I'll swap the engines.

I had the problem with a Ford Transit a couple of weeks ago that I destroyed the master cylinder seals by pushing the pedal all the way down. Result was pumping air in each time I push the pedal... Was also such a never ending story. After changing the master cylinder, everything was fine instantly.

Ah, I see! That explains everything. I didn't have the information about breaching the head gasket between exhaust and coolant. So I will try to confirm the damage today (bubbles). And if so, I will exchange the whole engine. Since I have a LPG modification in my other car and I also have to swap that over (for money matters) - and the a/c - , I don't want to fool around with changing head gaskets then. I will do that with my brother, both cars besides each other, should be a quick thing It's not the first engine, I exchanged several EA82 in the past, so no problem in doing that at all. Bu you know, avoiding work is always the target

I know the coolant should be sucked back when cooling down, but I'm irritated by the speed. The whole action from stopping the car to a fully refilled cooler didn't last more than 5 or 6 minutes. In this time, there can't hardly be any significant cooling down in my opinion. Or am I wrong on that point? I tested the cooler cap in my other car - the soon to be replaced one - it's working fine. That was my first idea after buying the car. Hmm... However, could it be that the cap can't hold the pressure sometimes and sometimes can? I'm not used to problems with the caps, since I didn't face any yet. Thanks for your ideas. I will test the head gaskets (compression) for sure.

Yeah, he knows about it. And I also before buying it. And therefore the car was cheap, I buy it with the idea of either fixing or exchanging the engine. The rest of the car is in really good condition, so it was a good deal. But if it's an easy fix, I want to avoid exchanging the engine, since there funnier things to do during a day On Tuesday we will check compression on all cylinders and tomorrow I try testing again while idling and looking for bubbles.

My new station wagon - I bought it with knowing the problem - has an overheating problem, a mysterious one somehow. It's a 1994 1st gen Legacy 2.2 without a/c and automatic transmission. I registered the car on Friday and drove about 80 km (50 miles) without problem (even idling for about 20 minutes) while it was quite hot. On Saturday it was much cooler and I drove for about 20 km (12 miles) and suddenly the temperature was quickly rising from normal to hot. I immediately pulled over and checked. There was much water coming out of the overflow of the coolant expansion reservoir. And now something mysterious happened: I picked up some coolant fluid to refill and opened the cap of the coolant expansion reservoir. It was full to the top. And suddenly the coolant was sucked back in the cooler really fast. It was like if you have a glas of Coke and trink it with a straw. This was so quick... I put in about 1.5 liter of coolant before it stops. I was then opening the cap of the cooler and there was no pressure or vacuum on it. No visible leak, nothing odd. I then start the engine again, temperature was back to normal, I switched on the heating for checking and drove home. When I nearly got home, the same happened again, the temperature of the heating dropped so there was too few fluid in it. I hadn't time for more checking since I need to get somewhere and just picked my other car. So, has anyone any idea about that? I have never seen something like that sucking back ever again nor heard about something like that. Anything is appreciated! Thanks!

Ah OK. Now I got it Phase 2 was used starting with MY99? So a Forester from 1998 or early 1999 should have a Phase 1 EJ20?

Hi! I have a question: I'm thinking about buying a Subaru Forester MY98 or MY99 with a broken engine and replacing it. Now I found out that the Forester uses EJ202 engines instead of EJ20E used in Legacy and Impreza. What's the difference? Can I put in an EJ20E without changing the original ECU? There are many old and cheap EJ20 Legacy out there with working engines just rusting away so that would be a perfect swap... Oh, to clarify: In Germany the Forester was offered with a 2.0 L engine (like Australia), not with 2.5 L like in USA. Thanks!

Thanks! I will pull one of those actuators tomorrow and play with it. Then I will see if it's really damaged. I hope it's getting warmer... There's no frost but pretty cold just above the freezing point. Not the best weather to make something outdoors...

That was my first idea: disconnect the battery and the locks work again. But it doesn't work... Same behaviour regardless of the battery connected or disconnected. That's the weird thing I don't understand... I will have a look at that switch later and I will also look for the keyless entry control unit, I read some postings on the internet that it could cause such trouble.

Thanks for the advice. I already disonnected the battery yesterday, but to be sure that the time wasn't to short, I tried it again and disconnected the battery for 2 hours: No luck

Hi! I have a weird problem with my car: I had some battery / power troubles yesterday and therefore the central lock wasn't working. So I unlocked the driver side door with my key and got assist-starting. The other doors unlocked as well as soon as there was power. The surprise was when I tried to lock the car again: I can't move the key in the lock for locking and the inner power locks aren't working also. I just can't push them. It's like the actuator or something is blocked. And that's the same on all four doors! So I deinstalled the door panels today and hat a look at the whole thing on the driver side, but I don't really find an issue. It's just impossible to push the actuator down... Has anyone an idea what's going on? I have the keyless entry system id that's somehow related to that issue. Fuses are all ok and I also tried to unplug the actuator, also with no luck. Thanks! Stefan

Thanks! That's exactly the part. Good to know that these rot away... Couldn't imagine that until yesterday. The bad thing is that I parted three Legacys in the last 1.5 years but of course I didn't take out that rear crossmember Does the one from an Impreza also fit? One guy told me so, but I want to be sure before buying a car...

Hi! So, I have a rather big problem with my car: Somehow my brother managed to broke the driver side of the rear mounter / subframe / crossmember / whatever which holds the rear differential in place. So now the differential is some centimeters lower on the driver side and is completely out of angle. And in fact I think it's only holding in place by the exhaust pipe, I have to check that in a private garage the next days. Don't ask about the noise and the drive feeling... I don't know how he managed to come home at all. So, what's the name of that broken part? My English is not good enough to know that special word (and in fact I don't know the name in German, too). It's the big rusty metal plate seen in this photo (not mine of course): http://s306.photobucket.com/user/wdub180/media/subaru/2012-07-16185023.jpg.html I can't find it in the service manual I have - or I din't look at the right place. Which parts are identical? Only gen1 Legacy or other Subaru cars as well? Perhaps someone has a part number? And another question: Is that part known to brake by rust some times? THANKS!

Hi! I have a small problem with my idle speed: It's too high - about 1900 rpm - when I hit the clutch and the car is moving further on. As soon as the car is stopped, the idle speed immediately drops to its normal speed. But as long as the car is moving, it stays at this high rate. I really don't get an idea what could be the cause of this odd behaviour. Any hint is appreciated Thanks!

Hmm, I have a donor car, where I pulled the compressor, so I will pullthe the other components as well and replace them. Seems to be better. The idea with turning on the a/c while filling the system is great! I guess that should work and that will be the way to go or at least to try. I have another joker: A buddy who works in a machinery construction company will try to make a proper adapter, perhaps this will be successful. Anyway, I will report Thanks!

Hmm that's a bit tricky to do it myself: Here in Germany it's extremely uncommon and unpopular to do such things yourself. You're almost seen as dangerous criminal if you let that gas loose... Too many greens here in this country So, you can't really buy R134a and PAG100 - or better said, it's much cheaper to let it be done in a garage than to buy that things yourself. Last time, the guy at the garage refilled the system only with the low pressure side and it took hours to fill the system. Now I've changed the compressor because it went bad and now the system has to be refilled and I want to make it right this time. Ff course, if there's no solution it has to be done in the same way the second time, but I have the feeling that there wasn't enough R134a in the system last time as well... Problem is also that there aren't many cars with R12 a/c here in Germany: There weren't many back in the 90ies in general since it's not that hot here (or better it wasn't that hot...) and many of those with a/c are gone thanks to rust and the stupid German tax policy for old cars. So it's hard to find anyone who really knows about that old a/c. And Subaru Germany is expensive as hell

Hello, I have a small big problem: I'm currently upgrading a 1992 Legacy a/c to R134a and to that quick connections of R134a systems. That's not the real problem since you get plenty of refitting adapters to convert that old R2 connectors. However, I have the problem that I can only get the proper adapter for the low-pressure side. That's 3/8". But the high-pressure side is smaller, should be 1/4". But I can just find adapters for 3/8" or bigger (both pressure sides have the same size on those offers) and sadly I can't get any informations here in Germany about the right adapters and it's also impossible to find a garage with the right adapters since all I know of have those new compact devices for filling R134a and newer. I have found a few threads and informations, but nothing about the size of the high-pressure adapter nor where to buy it. I have also searched on ebay.com but also with no success, but perhaps I just search for the wrong thing. Any help is very much appreciated! Thanks!

Another point could be water in the fuel / fuel filter. Got this twice with different cars and the behaviour was very odd then. Worth a check, I guess

I have a problem with my TPS. I checked the voltage and resistor values according to the service manual and this looks good so far (Voltage coming from the ECU, resistor values of TPS when moving the throttle are also were they should be), but I get no voltage on Pin 2 (the TPS signal itself). I'm "a bit" confused about that. I mean the TPS is working (changing resistor voltage), but there is just 0 V as output signal. I have a spare TPS (bought as working) which shows the same behaviour. Had anyone similar problems or an idea what could be wrong?