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subarurx yo

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Everything posted by subarurx yo

  1. I have a 03 wrx swap, with the body harness too, in swapping into my 87 rx. anyways I was looking at the ecu pinout and swa that there's a bunch of things like fuel sensors and such that my car doesn't have. Is there anything I would need to do to bypass any of that and is there any security interlocking the ecu that I would have to "fool"?
  2. do 03 ej205 cam sprokets interchage with other engines like ej25d for the sake of availibility, I need all four, so if someone has any for sale up here that would be great, I definatly cant afford the prices im finding on the internet
  3. ok the pcv valve is removed, with a bolt in place, the intake plenum thing is the MAF, to Turbo tube from a ea82t, using one hole from it, running the iacv directly to it, like I say though it never caused problems before
  4. its a 92 ej22e, I turboed it, have about 5k on this specific motor, a few days ago I had a no start situation, looked at t-beltl, it was tight, I didn't think it would even have a chance to slip, so I re-did my swap harness since this was my first harness and it wasn't all neat, it was kinda dangling by my feet, and was tacky looking, I thought maybe a wire chaffed idk, but I redid this, then found the t-belt skipped about 5-teeth, so I reset with a different tensioner. I have had the MAF off since, but its hooked up again and I looked all over for potential leaks, I'll look more though I Know it's not proper, but my pcv isn't hooked up, but it always ran before. My IACV just has a short hose going to the intake tube right before the compressor on the turbo, the maf is Attached to that. My hoses are pretty basic right now. Also the more the vaccum leak (except throttling it) the "better" it seems to run, maybe just a little longer. In the past though I've been able to disconnect the MAF connector and it would stay running, just poorly, This time it doesn't help.
  5. After fixing my t-belt, and re-doing my harness for swap into my 87 rx, It will start up perfect and run for about 5 seconds, then stall. If I touch the throttle it stalls. and It will not start at all if I give it any throttle. Theres no codes except when I unplugged some sensors and such to se iff running would change and it doesnt. No new codes if I reset ecu. Im pretty confident in the harness as I've done them before. The thing I look at first is my IACV hose, it's hooked up good and the same as it's always been, I don't have a fuel pressure testor, but i'm assuming it has enough since it pushes through the regulator, I also pinched the return to spike the pressure to the max the fuel pump out puts. I switched ecus, nothing, pulled a plug, looked at spark, it looks good even when it starts stalling. I took an LED and hooked up to an injector plug to kinda moniter the pulse and it looks like good solid blinks until it starts stalling, it faints to very light blinks like it's leaning it. If I crack the throttle the blinks goes almost non-existent so it appears that it is stalling because the injectors are leaning fuel until it stalls?? I tried reading the plugs, but it's kinda difficult since it wont run long enough. As much as I dislike this I used some starting fluid and It kept it running for a lot longer too. I also played with the IACV with the top off and turned by hand and it stays running just as long when I adjust it by hand Unplugging the MAF connector makes NO difference either
  6. It was gas though! It was black looking from carbon in exhaust, but it was lol
  7. As it turns out I didn't fully check my t-belt right, I judged it by just the cam wheels, I lined up the crank and the cams were like 5 teeth off!, anyways I fixed that and It starts right up, but stalls like its outta gas after about 5 seconds at idle, or instantly if I touch the gas. I remember it doing this once before when the IACV was disconnected, but It isn't
  8. I checked the t-belt and it's fine and timed and replaced the engine harness, still no start except it may start and run for maybe 2-3 seconds and die. I checked codes, its only 23 (maf sensor) due to me unplugging to try starting fluid, and with starting fluid it fires right up and stalls like "no fuel", yet it flooded so bad that there is a puddle of gas out from the exhaust. So I pulled the plugs and they weren't soaked, but totally black with carbon, (these were new plugs.) I unplugged all injectors and disabled ignition and spun it around a few times and let it sit to dry out, tryed cleaning plugs, hooked everything up, and STILL ISN'T STARTING! With the green test connectors hooked up and the pump cycling I can for sure hear fuel moving through the rail, so obviously I would think It has enough pressure, as it's pushing through the regulator. This Is day 4 of trying to fix this and its driving me nuts!!!
  9. thats what i was thinking, its weird that it would be so random though
  10. i didnt test it, the belt has about 10k and its a gates brand, it was tight though, I didnt get the cover off to check it, but I might tomarrow. If that doesnt work im gonna try another engine harness, that should eliminate all the posibilties, hopefully
  11. Aright so ej swap has been on the road for 25k miles, then it starts normal one morning, shut it off for a few hours, go to take off again and it just cranks and trys to start soo bad, it sounded like a low idle while cranking, but nothing. It has spark and fuel too, the spark looks bright yellow? I got towed around the block with it in gear, it did nothing but spudder here and there. I replaced the cam/crank sensors, the ignitor, coil, and plugs and nothing. I jumped the main relay and also squeezed the fuel return to build higher fuel pressure incase the regulator crapped out. I also got another harness and ecu, tryed the ecu first, same result. Now I just got done spending like 12hours on the new harness, and put it in the car and the SAME crap. The main ground for the ecu is good and snug. I pulled the side timing cover and wiggled the belt and it's tight, i couldn't possibly see it slipping. BTW before doing all this I pulled codes and got idle switch, iac, neutral sw, and st. switch. none of these seem like they would threaten it starting at all? I also hooked the start switch up this time. Also The only ground is through the harness and to the intake manifold, for the ecu that is, but that worked before.
  12. is the window just not working?, if thats the case tossing parts like that can be annoying and expensive (as I found), my right window didn't work and after digging through the wire harness I found it was a broken wire in the left door jam.
  13. Ya I mostly know my way around ea82t's, considering I've had five and done, a bit of work on them lol, I finally went with a ej22 though in my other car.
  14. Launched at 4500 in low and went through 3rd in low, then high and a little of 4th
  15. just for kicks, I thought I would share my et on my 86 rx sedan bone stock launching in low range 60ft- 2.08 1/4 mile- 16.4 mph - 77
  16. I engine brake all the time, I just put er in neutral, rev match for the gear I want, let the clutch out and its probably wearing less on the clutch than normal upshifting, plus you know that you will have vaccum for the brake booster, since for sure the engine is turning, unlike if you slap it in neutral and coast to a stop with brakes their is sometimes that possibility of stalling and loosing a lot of the brake force, which could be sketchy
  17. also I have LOTS of ea82 stuff I can trade, I do have 3 hotwire mafs, anyone heard of converting them over?
  18. I beleive my afm went out on my 86 rx ea82t, with a paddle style air flow meter, when plugged it won't idle and spudders, unplugged it runs smoother, but of course i need it to be right. Does anybody know a place to get one, since i feel that finding one isn't gonna be that easy, and i don't wanna pay steep prices for a new one? Just for kicks, has anyone heard of using one from another car?
  19. i ran a ej25 on low boost for 10k with no threat of getting hot
  20. my 87rx has a ej22 outta a 92 legacy swapped in and just recently my cam sensor just keeps going out, 3-times in the last 2 weeks!, today it ironically went out when I went to start it up at the wrecking yard and i got code 13, so i walked back in and got one lol, any ideas. A few weeks back I ran a picco scope of the cam sensor, because often i would crank the car over and sometimes wont start right away, like it's firing off stroke and the engine would stop while cranking over, then if i released the key to on it would buzz, the tach would jump and it would shoot spark from the plug wire with the engine still. This has gone on for most of the life of my swap, so far about 21k on the ej swap, it's just a little confusing
  21. haha alright, merry christmas

  22. thanks for the info I researched syncros briefly but not much understanding untill i had a tranny apart. I will probably just get the few parts i need and put her together
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