starfox5194

Anywhere I can find 96-99 struts in good condition that are cheaper than those coil overs for 350?

They rub on the bottom of the spring. No where else. I was talking to a guy who would sell me these for 350$ http://passwordjdm.com/KSport-Kontrol-Pro-Damper-System-02-07-Subaru-Impreza-WRX--P4950C1901.aspx?UserID=65458421&SessionID=fLDIZ9Rv7Tm73O6DvZSn I have no idea if they will bolt to my car though. The thing is that coil overs are a lot thinner than my stock strut and spring, So i feel like that might solve the problem? It rubs a little on the inside of the rears too. Against the strut/spring.

I have a 95 Legacy Outback Wagon 2.2L AWD. The stock tire size is 195x60x15. I put on 205x70x15. They rub in the rear. when I go around corners. Would a small lift or some coil overs do the trick? I'm taking it back to the tire place to get the right size tires on, but only if they will do it for free. Otherwise I'm going to upgrade the suspension if that is possible.

It's difficult to tell if this is really a problem or not, but I don't remember it always happening a few thousand miles ago. 1995 Subaru Legacy Outback EJ22 5M/T 136k miles. basically when I try to get into first gear and the car is facing up hill, it works. I successfully get in gear. The RPMs are normally just a tad below 1000 (once my foot is totally off off the clutch) and I have to press the gas pedal to the floor and pray that the car slowly rolls up hill. No matter how hard I press on the pedal the car does not really respond. It just very very slowly rolls up hill. Eventually the rpms get up to 1700 and the car starts to launch forward and act normally (due to my foot still being on the floor and the car being at the top of the hill). People are behind me so It's pretty embarrassing when this happens. The RPM's match the MPH at a good ratio, so that leads me to believe that there is nothing wrong with the clutch except for a screaming throwout bearing above 4.5k RPMs. Clutch was replaced at 70K so it's not too old yet. So my question is do I just need to give it more gas when I start in first gear up hill or is this abnormal behavior? I don't always remember this happening but I don't always remember being able to get in gear at such a low RPM either. I used to be a lot more nervous of stalling on hills so I would rev to about 2K and try to start anyways. My next issue: It is summer time and I recharged the A/C on my own to make the cabin a little cooler. I bought a kit with a gauge from Advanced Auto Parts and it took about two bottles to get the A/C to the proper level. It's pretty cool, but not as good as a car made within the past ten years. That's not the issue with the A/C though. My issue with the A/C is highway driving and parking lot driving. I can feel the compressor turn on and off in the gas pedal. It even causes the car to lurch on the highway and keeping a constant speed requires concentration. It's really annoying and the passengers can feel it too. But I need A/C so I just crank up the stereo and try to get my mind off of it. Also, If I'm driving around in a parking lot in first gear, the compressor turns on an off a lot too. The car literally chugs and it's a battle to keep a constant comfortable speed. I've driven the car for a year and a half so I'm pretty comfortable driving It. I think I know what I'm doing and I don't think the issues I'm having are due to human error. I'm not keeping it out of the question though. I look forward to hearing what you have to say about my issues. Thanks everyone and sorry this is such a long post.

http://imageshack.us/g/444/img0710n.jpg/ That is a link to the gallery. The leak is found in the last photos showing pipes right above the knock sensor. Not 100% sure if the leak is from the hose or the pipe, but you can just about see everything. If it is the metal pipe, how would I go about fixing this? Anyone know how expensive the pipe is? How about the hose?

Found the leak. It's coming from a small pipe right above the knock sensor. I'll post a photo shortly

Brown, rusty antifreeze was all over my driveway today and as I was driving I discovered the thermostat showed my car was about to overheat. I stopped at the gas station and put in coolant. Let the engine run for a few minutes and the water level remained about the same. Car is still overheating. Engine has not shut off and I have not seen any smoke though. Car smells like burning antifreeze. 1995 Legacy Outback. 2.2L Manual 5 Speed Current Mileage 132K Water pump and timing belt done at 118K I don't know if the thermostat has been done or where it is located. How would I go about diagnosing this problem? Is the thermostat replaceable easily?

I am also having this SAME problem. I have a manual transmission though so I'd need a solution where I wouldn't spill my drink with every shift.

about the mph meter issue. I fixed it. Don't ask who what where when why or how, but I managed to accelerate up to 112mph where the governor kicks in. My speedometer now always reports the correct speed.

sorry, can someone please move this thread so it can get more responses? @ 987687 What you are describing is my exact issue. If anyone knows how to fix it, please let me know? Driving last night I noticed a constant somewhat quiet whine that was masked by my loud music. No matter what gear I was in, the wine would remain constant. Pressing on the gas Made it louder. Putting it in neutral after pressing the gas made it quiet down to it's constant wine. I saw a youtube video of old timing belt idlers. The sound is comparable to that. Should I be worried about having squeaky pulleys? What is the worst that can happen from them? 1995 EJ22 127K miles.

I've got a 1995 Legacy outback 5MT. No matter what gear I am in, my car starts to squeal at 4K RPMs. All of the belts were just done a few thousand miles ago and then checked. The squeal started When the weather started to get warmer and it is not getting any louder yet. It always happens at 4K rpm and disappears at 4.5K RPMs. I'd like to say it's a pulley. I have no clue how to figure out which pulley it is though. Can this be fixed with a little WD40 in the right spot? The engine has 127K miles. Timing belt was done at 118K by a professional mechanic. I have no idea if he did the timing idlers. I could ask him, but he may not remember. I hope it's not in the timing belt area. The belts were "checked" at 123K because the alternator belt put on was too long and began squealing when the car started. I have another issue. This isn't serious, but it's strange. Whenever I travel under 10 mph, the meter bounces around 20 mph. I have no clue what is causing this. It happens in 1st and Second gear. I haven't tested neutral or higher gears, but I'm pretty sure it still happens. Please forgive me for taking a video while driving in traffic. Link to the video:

Okay cool I think I'm going to pray I have a servicible one. Hopefully I can get it done myself once I take the time to do it. I have a few questions from those that have done this before Do I really have to support the transmission by a jack once unbolt those two bars? It just seems like a pita but I guess I can do it. Is it dangerous? Do I need a transmission jack? All I have are drive up two ramps and a regular jack. Did you have to unbolt any of the exhaust? I just fixed a nasty exhaust leak and my car feels brand new now. The difference is insane. I don't want to be messing with my exhaust to prolong the fix for as long as possible. Thanks

Directed towards the rs thread tutorial linked above. Is it really only possible to replace 2 out of the 4 bushings? Should I buy the new joint?

I changed the gear oil about 1000 miles ago with the oil. I used redline manual trans oil. Found it on amazon for a reasonable price. I was expecting miracles but didn't get any really. My clutch has a lot of play near the floor so I think it's adjusted alright. My shifter is loose(sloppy/bad/has a lot of play) when pulled towards the middle of first and second gear, but is tight(good) between fifth and reverse. I couldn't get to the bushings without pulling exhaust out. I was able to replace two bushings but not the other two that were farther back. Maybe replacing those other two bushings will make my car shift better? It was just way too crowded under there and I didn't have all of the right tools. I also couldn't find a good tutorial of how to get the thing apart.

Car is a 1995 Subaru Legacy L Outback 2.2L EJ22 5 Speed Manual. 126K miles. The only way I can describe the transmission is "rough". The shifter linkage is definitely worn. And I feel like second gear is getting worn out. Sometimes it is hard to put the car into reverse. Every time I try to put the car into a gear I feel like it "clicks" into gear. I can feel a strong click as the car goes into gear. It seems pretty normal, but I can't help but think it should feel more buttery. The shift from first to second always makes me cringe. It grinds maybe every 1 out of 40 shifts. So not too often, but enough to be concerning. I understand it is very expensive to replace second gear/all of the syncros. sp? I was thinking about figuring out how to throw a six speed manual transmission in there, but I realized that it's nowhere near as simple as bolting on just a new transmission. There are a few other parts that need to be done too like the driveshaft and differential. I'm redoing my exhaust in a few weeks and decided I might give replacing the shifter linkage a go. I'd like to put in a short shifter too. Does anyone have any suggestions about what I should do with my situation? Is there a place to find cheap, perfectly working 5 speed Subaru transmissions? I'm pretty sure cheap and perfectly working are contradictory words. But miracles happen I guess. I should probably stick with replacing the linkage and calling it a day. It is a 16 year old car after all.