Hitoshi

I just found my receipt for the Sachs kit I bought. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SAC0/KF59901/01351.oap -Toshi

I finally finished installing the cable. I put a return spring on the clutch fork as well. Unless I don't have it adjusted correctly I'm still having issues getting it in gear. I guess the next step is removing the transmission and looking inside. -Toshi

I think maybe someone put it in backwards. I just took off the pedal.

Is there a trick to remove the bolt that attaches the cable to the pedal? I removed the retaining clip but it seems like it won't slide out all the way without hitting that metal plate.

Just ordered a new clutch cable from the Subaru dealership.

From what I can tell the cable is routed correctly under the heater hoses and the steering column. There is no visible signs of fraying. Some additional background information that I probably should have mentioned earlier... I bought a Sachs clutch kit from O'Reilly's and my friend that installed it said that it wasn't the correct one. So then I did some research on the forum and bought the Exedy 15008 clutch kit. What's inside is some combination of the two kits and from looking at my spare parts it looks like what's in there is the Exedy pressure plate w/ the Sachs clutch disc. Not sure what throw out bearing is in it. It's been a few months and I can't remember the exact reason why it's like this. So I would think that the clutch/pressure plate are okay unless you can't mix and match the kits. I can give the return spring a try. I'm temped to attempt to remove it to see what's going on.

Hey guys, So, I've finally got around to trying to get my Subaru road worthy. It's an EA81 with 4sp dr. When I bought it the transaxle was messed up so I got another one and it and some clutch pieces which were installed by the person who sold me the car. I've played around with the adjusting nuts and the hill holder but the clutch has never really felt right. Right now, while the car is off, the clutch is kinda hard to press and after it is depressed the pedal sort of dangles there. I can get the pedal back to the original position by manually pulling the clutch fork towards the front of the vehicle. I was able to drive the car but I made a few more adjustments to the cable and now the car is difficult to get in and out of gear without using some force. Since I'm not really experienced in this I would like to get some input on how to go about troubleshooting this in a more methodical way to prevent accidental damage to the components. Any ideas for what potential problems could be occuring that I could research? Thanks- Toshi

Check this thread out. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124058

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:lh7EjaHCQHUJ:www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/images/Weber%2520Trouble%2520Shooting%2520Guide.pdf+&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESgLz-cNGNZHKfQnNKGYzTIW__SN63xGl2Kx_z1SxCuhj8PGV2PUQApj677swDJhAMoeeXDedfCk64S-VLl3J5wBbSw674csGPABJOYw9H61NUHcl4tx4v4QfqXN9WInXXNH0kFM&sig=AHIEtbRmugB_ca_clEgT3PHG_looKGHXxg

There is a manual conversion kit. I've seen them for like $30 bucks or so on ebay. Also, I found a Weber carburetor troubleshooting guide online which I followed to set up my electric choke. If you google "Weber carburetor troubleshooting guide" you'll probably be able to find it. It's section 5D. -Toshi

If you do a search for Weber you can find what other people did.

Ditto on what Shawn said. At least on my Weber hitting the accelerator is needed to "reset"/close the choke. Not sure if this is your issue but I had similar problems and it was all due to the choke not functioning correctly.

Okay thanks

I'm looking at my Bentley manual for how to swap out the front break pads. It calls for the use of a Subaru service tool 9255 90000. Where can I get this or is there something else I can use instead? I just want to make sure I have everything before I start.

Replaced my choke shaft. Weber is running pretty good now. Thanks guys.

Did a full tear down and rebuilt the Weber. Seems like my choke shaft is all bent so I might have to get that replaced. I'm thinking it should move more freely. Going to go mount it up and take a test run in a bit.

When I was a kid we had cup holders in the gl that went in the door windows. Maybe something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Rubberqueen-51216-Cup-N-Can-Holder-Charcoal/dp/B0009N0W24

Ugg.. I just got home to check out my Sube. Still having flooding issues or something. Going to pull it off again this weekend and try again.

I'm not sure about the fuel pump. I'll check it out when I get back home. As for the fuel filters, I replaced both of them recently. There was one by the tank and a secondary up in the engine bay. I'll try advancing the timing up to 20 too. I'm not sure what a "ping"-ing engine sounds like. Would it be noticeable if it was happening?

Haven't been doing anything or driving my Sube lately. So I decided fire it back up and continue working on it so I can get mobile again. Funny enough, I got it running pretty decent and I was at the same bar where I got stuck last time.. Got stuck again. Came out and was having flooding issues. In addition, earlier, I took off the electric choke because it wasn't working correctly and was "manually" adjusting it to get it started/warmed up. Ended up taking a cab back to get a few hours of sleep and went back in the morning to get it. I got back in the morning with some carb cleaner, WD-40 and my tools. I think I was able to dislodge whatever gunk tapping it with a wrench and blasting the inside of the opening with carb cleaner because I was able to get it to run enough to get back home. Yesterday I took the carb off to get to the base adapter gasket since it was leaking. Replaced it with a gasket I made from a box of Honey Nut Cheerios. Lol, no more leak. I'm not sure how long that's going to last. I had to drive it again and was having flooding issues while driving it. Today I did a more through job cleaning. Pulled the carb off again and cleaned all the electric choke arm/linkage and got it running a lot nicer. Still need to adjust the choke setting and idle setting. I have a couple of questions maybe you guys can help me out. Fast Idle What is the approximate RPM you guys have for your fast idle? I couldn't see how the fast idle screw adjusts up and down. Is that arm that the fast idle screw catches graduated? Timing I know people have their Webers anywhere from 12 to 22 degrees. I can't really tell a difference between anything in that range except that when I advance the timing RPMs/Vacuum increases. What are the advantage/disadvantages for having lower or higher timing?

I pulled apart my the Weber yesterday and I'm not by any means an expert but the float and needle seemed to move freely and I couldn't imagine them getting stuck. So I'm not sure what was going on. I ended up putting it back together and it seems to be okay now. Now if I can only find a way to get at the idle speed screw and idle mixture screws a little easier. It's kinda of hard to get past the distributor with a screwdriver.

I pulled my Subaru out of the garage yesterday. Seemed to run fine most of the night until I was about to go home from the bar. I couldn't get it started. I had it towed back to my house this morning and tried to start it up when I got home again. Still issues. Engine cranks, sometimes starts but then eventually dies. Is it possible that the fuel mixture screw is so loose that it is just spilling gas into the carb? I noticed gas was just overflowing out of the part I circled in the picture and spilling into the carb. I'll be doing some more research and hunting around, just though I check to see if anyone had some clues.

I'm just putting off the ASV stuff for now. For the PCV, I was checking out the Weber air housing and am curious how the hell do you get both a 5/8ths and a 1/4th up in there.. Seem like there's barely enough space for just eh 1/4. I guess for now I could go with that simplified setup until I can figure out something better. Anyone have some pictures of a correct PCV setup with a Weber? I ended up removing those valves. So now I have manifold vacuum to a plastic T. One end of the T is capped and the other one goes to the heater. I guess the vacuum tube size on the heater is slightly smaller.

Sorry, one more question.. I swapped out my intake manifold because I had the Weber/Carter. The intake manifold's temperature sensor is a little different (Also, on the other side.) It only has one prong compared to my old sensor had two prongs.. I just hooked it up with the same orientation even though it only has one prong. Does this matter? Thanks again- Toshi

First off, I want to thank the board for all the information. I'm getting close to finishing weber swap. Super stoked . I have a few remaining questions though. ASV Passenger side ASV has a T before the valve. One end goes to the air filter and the other looks like it goes to another ASV silencer. Then there's another hose on the other end of that silencer that eventually connects to right before the second cat. For now I was thinking of just disconnecting that and leaving it and do the quarter trick on the valves. Anyone done a more permanent solution that involves removing it from the bay? PCV I was searching around and I found out what to hook up but had a couple of questions about setup. There's already one hole in the bottom of my air filter housing. So, do I need another hole drilled in there? (i.e. One for the 5/8ths from air housing to passenger head and one for the 1/4 from F fitting to air housing...) Also, the last two cars I've tinkered around with (my Sube and my '87 Econoline) there has been a filter inside the original air housing where the PCV connects to it. I swapped them out cause they were saturated with oil. Does anyone put an additional filter on the 1/4 line back to air filter? or is that not necessary? Vacuum What are these two valves? I couldn't find any mention of what they do in the Haynes and am still waiting for my Bentley. From my searching it seems that heater can go directly to manifold vacuum. Are these necessary? Thank you- Toshi