saeble

I have : A) a rolled, cosmetically destroyed 1996 clubspec Rallye WRX (ie organ/parts donor) an 1981 L series wagon I want : Everything cool and worthwhile from A) into Where does the WRX stop and the GL wagon begin ? Just the driveline ? Or axle to axle and driveline ? I'm wondering if there are any recognised pitfalls to avoid. Any clues or nuggets of hardwon wisdom will be much appreciated. Once I start this project, I'll do my best to keep a journal in the hope that I can help everyone else with other equally fun conversions. cheers in anticipation fellas ! Beer supplied to anyone who comes to help

Can I get a nice set and forget electronic dizzy for my 82 GL wagon ? (ea81) Im getting very tired of dealing with the constantly drifting dizzy I have at the moment. Is there anything else that I should be aware of when it comes to ea81 ignitions ? I have a sneaking suspiscion that the plate through which the distributor bolt goes through is shifting. cheers !

went out and adjusted it and yes... huge difference. I haven't had it that long and it seems that someone negelected to tighten the dizzy adjustment bolt, or its worked itself loose in the last few weeks, which would make sense, because it got steadily worse. for the record I had 10 deg ATDC.... suffice to say that probably fixed all the ills previously mentioned, though I'm still looking for more reasons just in case. I've had too much experience with cars that have been 'fixed' by shadetree mechanics in the past.... the things people do to cars !

thats a start... thanks !

I went to check the ignition timing on my 82 Gl wagon(EA-81). I hook up the timing light and then open the Haynes manual... paraphrasing... "Look at the sticker under the hood for the correct timing figures" Some bastige has repainted my car at some point and very thoughtfully removed any signs of a sticker under the hood on my car. Hence I have no idea what degrees from TDC +/- I might need and at what revs/idlespeed this needs to be. Right now the car is dieseling, running quite hot, backfiring, refusing to idle at a reasonably low RPM, and just generally seeming to be telling me it's out of whack in the iginition dept. If my guesstimates are wrong I'm more than happy to hear anyone elses. I just thought the timing was a good place to start What idle speed and timing setting do I need ?? cheers in anticipation !

If someone can send me a very accurate drawing of the adapter plate for this conversion, (and any adapter plate I guess), I could digitise it and then cut them professionally with A CNC water jet cutter. They could be made to look almost stock, such is the nice finish a water jet will give you. Best bit about it is they are reproduceable, anywhere. I have a pal in the states who does CNC cutting, so you Yanks need not miss out either, (I'm in AU). Jet cutting isnt too cheap but considering the month of Sundays cutting one of these adapters by handwould require... it is probably well worth it. I cant get an accurate quote without a file to quote from but I'd be happy to do the digitising and arrange a quote for nix. There also may be some advantage in economies of scale. If I work out the best way to lay them out on the sheet, it may be possible to cut lots from the one blank. If any of you guys want to try and swing a semi-commerical sort of deal, just give me a shout. If there are any other brackets and doo-dads you may require in ally or steel then by all means ask. Just be aware it sometimes isnt cheap unless you are cutting lots of the said item. Mind you, the finish is perhaps better than factory stamped components when its done well. Not to mention I can punch weight saving from them, add a simple logo even.. Just let me know !

I was doing some messing around under the dash on my soobie when I discovered some nasty rot behind the front wheel below the A pillar. While its not terminal yet it has the potential to be. Im also moving to a coastal locale so its likely to get worse fast. Looks like classic 'wheel throw' type rust inside the guard has done some creeping. While I've done my share of wax-oiling and so forth I thought I'd ask around and see what everyone else does to cure cancer, other than rustectomy surgery, which isnt really an option for me right now. If anything I'd like a way to just arrest its progress and then seal it up without costing me several limbs. Any clues ? You poor beggars up in salted road country must have a few ideas. cheers !

a young doe ? venison anyone ? we have the same sorts of problems with kangaroos, they like the good grazing on the edge of the road, because AU is so dry, when it does actually rain, all the grass springs up alongside the road because of the runoff from the blacktop. The end result is lots of casualties, both cars and 'roos. If you ever drive any distance out here in a rental, make sure you're covered for 'roo damage, it IS a seperate clause. You DONT automatically get cover for animal damage on alot of rental cars. Thats why my Soobie wears a big aluminium 'roo bar. Very handy device. great for mounting stuff on, like lights and winches and stuff. Also comes in handy when you want to creep up behind a mates car, drop it in Low range, kiss up to his bumper and start pushing him out into the intersection.. (Don't try this at home kids, this is only for irresponsible adults)

I installed the 3.9 today... drove it a fair distance and it seems to be happy. Go figure. Who knows, perhaps its had some donor organs in the past. Incidentally I also replaced the big phat rollpin in the gearshift linkage and man... I can get first, second and reverse without tearing a hole in the gearstick boot each side of the stick..

you may have the beginnings of CV joint death. Constant velocity joints are the universal joint type suckers which allow the axles to transfer power through a variable bend, you've got 8 on board your soobie, (sorry if you know this, it just for clarity), theres one at each end of your axle shafts. I don't know which ones tend to go first on Soobies but basically every front wheel drive and four/all wheel drive has CV joints. When they start to die, they click in a repetitive fashion. It's usually first noticed when you go around a corner under alot of power. As it gets progressivly worse it will click under lighter and lighter loads, and lesser and lesser degrees of turn, until it finally shirts itself and scares the crepe out of you when it lets go and locks up a wheel or something equally hideous. Some people are crazy. I've seen a small FWD making more din from rotten CV's than a car witha broken conrod... and they wonder why they have to stop driving it and fix it ! I digress... your clicking noise may be the same sort of deal. When the axles are loading up from braking it may be popping the CV's as they change from driving/coasting/braking. I'd suggest you find a nice parking lot and put on full lock in each direction and go round and round in circles under power to see if you get a 'click click click'. If you do, you probably need rebuilt axle shaft/CV's. Fitting them is easy enough if you have a decent jack, axle stands and a few simple tools. I just replaced the rear diff on my car and I was mightily impressed with how easy it is to extract bits of Subaru from the rest of it. Given the year of your car it may be a manufacturing fault if it is CV's. You should have many miles left before you get problems like the above. Outside of that I'd check your brake calipers and discs for anything unusal. Big tracks cut in your discs, or loose stuff. There may also be something in the suspension which is acting up under load. It may pay to climb under the car when its safely on ramps or something similar and get someobody to bounce you car up and down to simulate weight transfer like you'd get under braking.

Are there any other symptoms ? Does the rear end howl or growl at speed ? Does the car make a repeated clicking sound when going around corners ? When you bring a problem to a place like this always try and give as much info as possible. It's hard enough consulting a 'crystal ball' as it is. While I havent been to this board for long I do know the same sorts of things apply on other car nut boards. The more you can add the better.

If your doors are wonky I would seriously suggest you make sure your shell is still relatively straight, the doors not closing is a telltale sign of frame or shell problems. If it's split a seam somewhere it could rust or do something equally nasty in a bizarre place. I've seen a wagon from an entirely different maker suffer a rear end hit, and 12 months later it was unroadworthy because a major seam has split in the accident and the red cancer had eaten some important sections of the floorpan, after $1000's had been spent on the repair to the car elsewhere. Always check an accident damaged car with a freakin microscope. And of course if it is too far gone to save, (and I hope thats not the case), make sure her bones and organs go to worthy recipients.

ok... NOW I'm confused.... The diff that was in the car is as much as I can tell a 3.9, and yet everyone says that AUs production wagons in 82 with D/R are supposed to be 3.7 I've since driven the 100k round trip to the wreckers to get a 3.9, which seems to be a very rare beast, everything else in stock was 3.7 Ok, so if it some idjut has put a 3.9 in a car set up for 3.7 (with a 3.7 front diff), deliberately and consciously, what's the advantage ? More launch from the lights ?? I think I'm going to bung the 3.9 replacement in and see what happens, if it starts doing strange shirt I'll put a 3.7 in... ...sigh... all I want to do is drive the danged thing.