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samneric

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Everything posted by samneric

  1. Wow, those ACL bearings are way cheaper than the subaru OEM ones also. Twice the bargin! Steve
  2. So can I take the whole block to my machine shop for planing or do I have to take it apart into two halves? ..and with that information, can I assume that my new headgaskets are leaking at the bottom of the fire ring? Why isn't this part of all the threads I have read on doing this job?! I did a LOT of research on this before I started. Arghhh:banghead: I hope people learn from THIS particular HG job. I am going to use this car for rainy-day driving until I get some money saved up. I have a convertible that I can use in the meantime. Hopefully less use on the Subie will allow for more time before catastrophic repeat HG failure. Steve
  3. Is this something I do myself with a machine shop straight edge? Something where I need to take the whole block to a machine shop? Where I need to split the block and take each half to a machine shop? My guess is no only because since driving it (two weeks now), I haven't been losing coolant - only having it displaced into the overflow bottle (which I am putting back every day). Ok - we need to define badly. My impression of badly is: needle at or above the two max lines on the gauge. When I drove it prior to repair, I was concious of overheating but couldn't do much when it did. So I always made sure the gauge stayed below the two max marks - it came close but didn't go into that max range. When it did raise I never let it stay raised for more than 1/2 a mile before stopping and let it cool down. The needle stayed on 3/4 for a few miles though during the several occasions it started to overheat. I hope this clarifies it a little. The headgaskets I took out were the black coating material kind which had obviously eroded over time. I got the car at about 215k miles and have no idea how it was driven prior. It may have been overheated before but the HG symptoms were not that bad when I first bought it - drove it 500 miles at least without overheating. What are the symptoms of excessive overheating in its life? My Subaru dealer mechanic only mentioned cylinder wall slippage, not warping of any kind - he said the heads are too small to warp. There is no excessive knocking so I assume the bearings are fairly decent. Steve
  4. I have started a new thread as suggested. I answered questions there. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134065 Steve
  5. Hi all, I have decided to try and trouble shoot my recent Headgasket repair for the good of anyone else who wants to do it themselves. My leasons learned can be added to the knowledge already out there. So, in that vain, lets start with answers to questions that followed when asking the question "what now?" in another thread: I bought the Gasket and Seal kit for my year and model (98 Outback Wagon). The part number for this set is 10105AA401. This gasket set contained two Subaru head gaskets. Their part number is 11044AA610. These are multi-layered gaskets that look like the pictures I have seen elsewhere on here for the replacement HGs. I asked my local Subaru dealer mechanic his thoughts on the symptons and he mentioned the "cylinder sleeve walking" that you GG mentioned. He also said it is very rare. Symptoms after HG replace: Bubbles in overflow tank. Coolant being pushed out of rad. The overflow bottle doesn't fill up yet - the level raises about 4-5 inches. I have been using a turkey baster to put the water back in the rad after every trip of 20 miles. So my plan is to pull the heads off again and have their flatness tested with a machine shop straight edge. Then I will test the block surfaces with the straight edge. Then I will have the heads pressure tested this time I guess I will take it from there. previous threads on the HG replacement: After: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133799 During: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132115 Before: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124451 Steve
  6. So in my case where I used them and put it back together to find a bad seal, what do I do now? I was planning on pulling the heads off again, getting them pressure tested and checking their and the block's flatness with a machine shop straight edge. If the block is out - what then? Would have I have to split the block, pull the pistons out and have the block shaved? Would that affect the piston clearance? Could I do it without having the block split?! I definately want to know why my job failed but then need to know what to do about it..... Steve
  7. Wow - those kits are CHEAP! I paid about $210 for the Subaru kit - which comes with the proper HGs but not the rocker cover gaskets. Steve
  8. Let me tell you from my own experience/research.. SUBARU OEM HEADGASKETS ONLY!!! Steve
  9. I haven't tried removing the t-stat but I'm not sure what that will achieve? If I have bubbles and water is getting pushed out into the overflow bottle how can it be involved? My latest purchase was a turkey baster so I can periodically transfer the water BACK from the overflow bottle into the radiator Steve
  10. Sure - I live in New Orleans - the A/C went on a month ago! We followed the Haynes instructions precisely. I have the order memorized.... hang on 2, 5, 1, 6, 4, 3 if i'm not mistaken lol. Steve
  11. Now now BB - we wouldn't want you run out of popcorn, would we? lol I mentioned the bubbles on page 2 of the thread and the misfire page 3. I didn't mention it on here but the misfire got worse. Anything over 3k rpm and it would misfire. This happened around 70 mph. So I drove it under that speed. On Friday I decided to try the high rpms on a cold engine and it got worse. Even after dropping down the rpms the engine would cut out I hope you didn't spit out your popcorn in horror here!) lol Luckily I got it home ok. Sat was ok but the cut out happened while driving - managed to bump start it because I had driving about 30mph. Came to start it today - no go . I had since read one of GD's answers on misfiring which mentioned the crank sensor's involvement. I decided - what the hell, I'll see if it has come loose. It had!!! ... look at this thread - more emotional mood swings than a drunken celebrity Anyway - the plastic hook that keeps the plug on the sensor must have broken off so I'll need some way of keeping it on long term. Good news is... it still drives Still have the bubbles from page 2 though so I'll have to wait and see myself .. Steve
  12. Yeah, thanks - this is my first FI HG job - my Brat HG replacement went a lot easier due to the fact that it's all mechanical. I'm new to this "it doesn't start without the sensor connected" technology Steve
  13. Misfire problem resolved. After reading a GD article, learn't that the crank sensor triggers timing. Checked the plug and it was loose Steve
  14. They resurfaced them - I didnt't have them pressure test them. I didn't think subie heads cracked. I'm begining to think they are though Steve
  15. Evening update: No overheating. Still bubbles in the overflow. Water seems to have risen in there. I pulled a gas leak test on the bottle - stayed blue :-\ ?? I didn't get the new radiator cap today - I'll get it tomorrow and post back then. Steve
  16. I'm gonna do the gas test tonight when I get home. The kit is there and I didn't want to stick the test tube into my radiator in the middle of the company car-park Lesson learned in doing the HG job - buy a machine-shop straight edge and *make sure* both heads and block are perfectly flat. This is the only variable because I followed all other instructions exactly. I would recommend everyone do this on a HG replacement - why put it back together and wing-it on potential warpage??? I like the 2.5 so I'm gonna buy a JDM and swap my recon-heads and intake onto it. At least I have a second car (which I can't drive in the rain) and the subie will drive in a limited fashion until I can save for the new block. Steve Steve
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