fixingrusinc83

don't have one to look at but from memory yellow and gray are on - and blacks + the two from the dist. have to be on opposites. with all wires off and key on, the +lead goes on + post then add 2 from dist. and try. good luck.

Shawn Have seen before think it was bad DOJ Mike.

had customer who istalled wrong fluid and ruined the tranny used install was $1800. So think twice before trying a different fluid. just heads up.

When I start a wheeling brng job. the first thing I do is take the bearings out of the race and take the race and throw it into the freezer. I take the bearings and pack them I take the old bearing apart and clean part to get ready for re-assembly. I take a propane torch and heat the Knuckle for about 1 to 2 minutes. then the race slips right in to the knuckle. (note if rear wheel brng the inside bearing needs to be installed into the race before the race is installed). I install packed bearings and outer seal. I then use the old inside bearing race, large washers, a 10 inch 3/4 inch allthread, and nuts to pull the hub into the bearings making sure the old bearing race is against the inside bearing race then washers nuts all on the inside press only on the interior races until till tight not too tight and if you think it needs more back off and see if hub wobles up or down. if solid pull out allthread and remove extra pieces install inside seal and install axle. NO I did not take the knuckle off the car.

Sorry did not read all post but 2 cents worth. Do you have any pictures of tail housing. 1 The tube that takes the fluid from duty c to the tailhousing could be popped out or 2 some of the tailhousing were made with a weak aluminiun that would get deep grooves were the seals for the 4wd, causing fluid to slip past and shows no leak. A picture may show tube or grooves if drum with tail shaft was out when picture was taken.

Ok lets check this carb. take off the top of the air cleaner, with a flash light look to the bottom of carb. with engine off either throttle the carb by hand or have some one else step on the gas pedal. the front butter fly will open (directly connected to throttle cable). so if you look to the back butter fly or throttle plate it will be closed. this opens with ported vacumn. ported vacumn only occurs on hard accelaration. So now start the car and look into the carb and throttle the carb. Look to see if the back butterfly or throttle plate opens. If yes, carb may not be problem. If no, internal vacumn leak. (note on 85 to 87 vacumn comes from a line that can carbon close. ) Rebuild carb and flat file the side of the carb where the vacumn pod is attached and file the vacumn pod. Gotten into this with board before flat file bottom of bowl and top and bottom of base plate.

the roll pin holes are 180 degrees off if you lookat the stub axle one side the hole is dead center for ridge. and the otherside is valley so if the axle is 180 off hole is 1/2. on clicking noise on acceleration how tight is the axle nut sounds like hub slipping on axle shaft.

you say you have double checked timing but if your book or manual is wrong it will be wrong 100 times. So not to question but one side will be at 0 degrees or 12 oclock and the other will be at 180 degrees or 6 oclock have corrected dozens of these that owner was working out of this or that manuel. Only trying to help.

the 3 wire distrubtor will need a ignitor box or the single wire distrubtor has points and will be easy to wire. When you turn on the key. you supply + to the + side of the coil ( 8VOLTS), the -SIDE OF THE COIL goes to the dist. When points close, coil loads when points open field collapses and spark will come out of coil. use the point dist. original equipment till you get it running and can enjoy or find out what you have or need.

unplug the brown 2 pin connector for the nuetral safety switch, clear codes and I think your problem will be gone.

the fork for 3/4 has a pad that is 1/2 wide. When driving in 4th gear if you rest your hand on the shifter to quite down noise or just bad habit it wears the back edge off the pad it then uses the front edge of this pad to move slider into 3rd but the back off which is gone is what pulls it out out of 3rd and moves slider into 4th. Will need to be replaced if you can find one (requires splitting case) If you can drive and get engine to match tranny like shifting with out clutch it might come out shifting from 3rd to 4th good luck

part of combo switch

have you adjusted the rear brakes? when adjusted rears will need very little fluid when out of adjustment you may need to pump twice to move parts ( shoes into drums)

the bottom or second to the bottom fuse in the fuse box will be melted on the end. replace with a circut breaker fuse.

I have installled 20 to 30 of these kits and it helps but lets look at basics, does your oil cap rattle when on tight. if it rattles it is a vacumn leak for the pvc system. Try turning the cap back 1/8 of a turn. leak sealed till you get a new seal. You may think I'm crazy but it works and you can check for a rattle in a split second.