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oobnuker

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About oobnuker

  • Birthday 05/07/1974

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    ArtVenable2002
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    oobnuker@msn.com
  • Website URL
    http://bankruptsoul.org
  • ICQ
    5844033
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    oobnuker5774

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  • Location
    Oxford, CT

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Advanced Member (3/11)

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  1. Read this: http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/alcohol.html I apologize in advance that it is a geocities site. Alcohol injection has been used for decades. We're not talking about NitroMethane, or Methanol, or anything like that - ala Top Fuel Dragsters. Alcohol injection has been used for cars that couldn't be intercooled easily (read: draw through carb'ed turbo setups ['79 Turbo Buick Regal]). In these systems, the fuel would cool too much and puddle in the intercooler. Alcohol injection is the perfect solution to this.
  2. I don't think it's octane that is the big concern - the alcohol is vaporized during combustion. It is used to cool the charge air by 200 degrees or so, allowing higher boosts using lower octane fuels. Isopropyl is cheap and effective.
  3. Not much help on the auto side of things, but if you are swapping transmissions, and missing the 5-speed... It just seems silly to even consider the automatic.
  4. http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=1 This is a picture of my engine bay. I have removed the power steering, A/C, spare tire, air box, and a few other things I can't even remember. The windshield wiper fluid tank is on the inside now because for a while I had no fenders...It's out of a '90 Legacy. Also, obviously, this is a SPFI motor - not sure what your RX is.
  5. Thanks - I should have checked here before I ripped what's left of my hair out...
  6. I need to remove the rear hubs on my '93 AWD Wagon. Is there some trick to this? I have removed the strut, the brake caliper and hardware, and the axle. What is the trick? I am selling the rear disc assembly to someone - should I just leave everything whole? (Spindle, backing plate, brakes, hub) Thanks.
  7. Removing the starter is not a big deal at all really, but it's another 1/2 hour or so of fumbling around that you don't need to do. Two bolts and it's out - it's just a matter of getting to them. The lower one can be a pain because the distributer, master cylinder, spare tire bracket, fuel lines, etc. all get in the way...Also remember to disconnect the battery if you haven't already or you could be in for a nice surprise down there... I didn't drill the hole the first two times I did the timing belts - I took a long screw driver and bent it like a "crank" in a vise with a hammer - that works ok but this last time I just bit it and drilled and it really just makes it so damned easy. This car has so many holes in it, I figure one more surely isn't going to hurt, and it hasn't yet.
  8. Pop open the inspection cover for the flywheel at the top of the bellhousing. Rotate it slowly and you will find several holes in the flywheel that you can use to secure the engine. It is kind of offset so you might have to get creative. A common backyard solution is to take a good look and drill a hole right through the bellhousing so that it lines up with the hole. Drop a screwdriver in the hole and you're all set. Then you just need to find something to plug the hole with - an oversized sheet metal screw, a rubber plug, duct tape, whatever.
  9. I think the axle nut is 36mm, BUT - it usually comes with the rebuilt axle if you go that route. At least it does when I get mine from Advanced Auto ~$60 for a reman. axle...
  10. Bunker??? Archie??? Anyway - here is a current auction for the same item that I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7926401352&category=33659&sspagename=WDVW The vendor's name is SaberSport.
  11. I put it all together last night. All it took was a minute with that rat-tail file (chainsaw file) to slot the holes and it came together nicely. When I fired the engine up, the sweet sounds of an open intake greeted my ears. The old one was definitely clogged up just based on listening to the new one.
  12. If you turn the key to "ON" and the check engine light comes on, then it goes off when you start the car, then it is fine. Basically all the "idiot lights'" on the dash should illuminate when you turn the key ON, but don't start the car. If the light doesn't come on ever, chances are the bulb is blown.
  13. I sold two turbos on Ebay - one for an EA82T, the other from a 1st Generation Buick 3.8l turbo. I put them both up at $50 + $25 shipping (heavy suckers), and they both sold using BuyItNow...Just something to think about.
  14. Well, I'm bringing this thread back to life because as promised, I bought the item off of E-Bay - the $8.95 MAF adapter and filter. This is what came in the package: http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=4 The filter appears to be of higher quality than the APC $25 jobber that I got at Advanced Auto. It also appears to be cleanable and reusable ala K&N, vs. el-cheapo filters (hermmmm APC?) The adapter is simple plastic. My only gripe is that the holes do not line up 100%. All the holes line up somewhat, but not perfectly. Nothing a little rat-tail file or a larger dill bit won't fix in about 5 minutes. All in all, I'm satisifed that my nine bucks was well spent. Total with shipping was $18.95 including the adapter plate, filter, gasket, and mambo worm-gear clamp. Here is a rough shot of the way the holes don't quite line up: http://www.bankruptsoul.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5&pos=5 I'll let you know how it all goes back together once I get my car back (long story...not pretty).
  15. It's the alternator. The voltage regulator inside the alternator has died and gone to HELL. I'm not sure where you are located, but in the North East, Advanced Auto/Parts America has remanufactured alternators for about $60 with a 1 year warranty. I have gone through this many times...
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