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O.C.D.

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Everything posted by O.C.D.

  1. Ok so now that I have completely pirated this thread,......lol Looks like the KYB's in this thread are not going to work for the gen 1 brat as they are to dis-similar. The spring perch is too wide for the gen 1 Brat spring and apparently that nut on the top of the strut shaft is the wrong dimension for them. But Mikelada, on your wagon it worked.
  2. Ah, bless PB Blaster, lol. Thanks for the info TheLoyale. I should have looked more intently. Seems like the KYB's will work then. So really if one wanted to lower their front with the KYB's they could lower the spring bucket... hmmmmmm
  3. Agreed - part numbers are secretly guarded here, lol.
  4. Maybe the KYB's remove that plate entirely and use theirs? I would love for some feedback from other cause that would be so simple.
  5. Do your front struts look like this with these bolts? Did that portion get moved over to the new KYB struts you bought?
  6. Maybe those bolts hold the spring plate? Maybe it bolts to the strut? I gotta look at mine more in depth tonight.
  7. Fronts I am kind of lost now. I read in Mikaelda's thread that these work for gen 1 wagon's but I am not sure about Brats? The picture below shows these bolts inside the springs? I really have no idea what these are for and even if the struts linked above will work? I am thinking no? Anyone have input on these?
  8. Is Red Heet like Sta-Bil? A winterized stabilizer?
  9. Can you by chance tell me what they cost? If I have to I will pay to get them. You aren't the guy I bought my 4 new Brat lenses from by chance are you? Define budget. I have already wasted the $160 on the fiberglass ones. I am willing to do what is needed. I know these are rare but I am sure I will get some. fingers crossed. Very interested. Can you please describe condition and or post pics please. I am not worried about some dents and dings but no rusty upper edges and no smashed corner light areas. Hopefully no rusted through arches etc.. I know I can't be too picky. Thanks Again, I do not want to knock the source or the fact that they are available. If you are a master with fiberglass then these can work. There is the bubbling but more important is the bad fitment. They need to be lengthened height wise. The lower mountpoints will not work until height is added, about 3/8". There is a fold over on the door seem that needs to be removed and modified to avoid the hinge. The top part that rests on the frame is too thick to allow the hood to close. That same area is also not at a 90 degree angle so the fender is in the way of the hood. Hood will not close unless thinned out but you can't really thin these out without losing integrity. So you would have to cut the bolt mount strip completely off the fender and re-fiber them straight. Light mounting points are holes and won't accept stock plastic ears that are square. Etc, etc....... I can make almost anything work and love the hobby/project. I just don't see these being worth the time. I truly wanted steel OEM anyways but these fiberglass seemed like a great option. Again, not knocking the source. I'm not going to settle. I am too into this Brat to half @55 it.
  10. I called 3 different yards out of the list from car-part.com and not a single person could help me or call me back. But I am not giving up and going to continue tomorrow.
  11. My stockers are so bashed that I can't even begin to reshape the front end. Both corners are smashed in pretty good. I am going to keep pestering on here as I pray someone will come to "The Squirrels" rescue.
  12. Beautiful Subaru and very well done mods. That weber intake mod is top notch!!!
  13. Please, anybody?!?!?!? I know these are super rare but I am at a complete loss til I get some. Anyone with a spare set or project wagon/brat. Thanks.
  14. If possible I would appreciate it! Let me know and I can snowing a couple bucks your way.
  15. As stated, I need a set that are in great shape. Paint doesn't matter but rust free and damage free preferred. I bought the fiberglass ones listed in here and they are just beyond easy fixing. I see myself investing way too much time into them. SO I am hoping that one or some of you nice people can help me out please. I would really appreciate it and will pay for shipping of course. Thank you and please help if you can.
  16. FYI to save yourself all those hours of using tape to mask: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXC100&P=5 Use this on everything. Painted tons of rc bodies with this stuff. It leaves no residue and cuts very well. I highly recommend it and save you the time. Available at hobby shops.
  17. I am a gen 1 Brat owner so I cannot add to the Cyclops thoughts. Just wanted to say that you seem to have found a great Gen 2 Brat. Looks to be a good beginning! Welcome to this awesome forum!
  18. GO to a vinyl shop and have your font ready to go. Easy cheesy.... Should be a few bucks at that.
  19. Finished is a figurative word. I have spent countless hours on my Brat. Spent hours the other day reforming my grille and the little strips of chrome on the bottom. Amazing how much goes into fixing things that most people would never care about. Add to that I have spent $2000 on a car I bought for $400, lol. Ah hobbies... But back to your build, don't wanna jack your thread.
  20. About to paint mine as well. Thanks for posting.
  21. Damn I need a roll bar now, damn......
  22. Rock auto has the cross pin Monroe 5914 for the gen 1 Brat and that is wrong. To add to this thread, the Monroe Matics # 33097 fits in the gen 1 Brat. I found some Monroe Matics # 33097 locally and thought I would try them out. 5914 is closest to stock: Compressed length - 12.75" Extended length - 17.5" Travel - 4.75" 33097 is longer but meets and exceeds the 5914 stats: Compressed length - 12.25" Extended length - 20.375" Travel - 8.125" Installed they are the same. The piston resides more in the middle of the tube though. I am not certain if this is a benefit or a hindrance but it reality that allows for more up-travel and down-travel as well. So will I hit a bumpstop on a hard bounce, probably. SO would any shock I guess. Would the wheel drop more if fully drooped, can't say yet. It could in theory if the torsion bar allows for it. As my Brat is parked for a while I cannot corroborate the drive. Will hopefully soon. Jon
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