Daskuppler

I'm not sure that I'm going to tackle it, I was under the impression coolant was still running through the head gasket. Since it's not, seems like the worse case here is a little oil seepage. If I touch it, it could get a lot worse!

Hello Everyone, Is anyone aware of a write up for this job? I had a block replaced 35k ago and the head gaskets are leaking and SOA is refusing to cover them. Quotes from a shop range from $2800 to $5700. Has anyone done it? I've heard it is a PITA and the entire engine has to be removed from the car, but there's not a whole lot of information available.

The oil consumption has actually gotten worse. The first change needed a quart at 6000ish miles. the difference could be a change in driving conditions, we had a lot more mountain miles and higher RPMs on this oil change.

Hello Everyone, The saga continues...What did you honestly expect 🤣 2014 Forester 145k, engine block was replaced approximately 30k ago. Recently, when the car shuts down there is a slight sweet smell (assuming it is coolant) and after running on the highway and stopping at a light, it smells faintly of burning oil. There are no puddles or drips on the ground. Coolant level is normal (just above the full mark when cold, heater works fine, no overheating, etc. While looking for signs of leakage, I did notice what appears to be seeping oil at the top front of the block along the driver side head gasket. I also noticed that the head gasket is not a MLS, but a cheap single layer. When I look up the vehicle on Subaru Parts Deals, it shows a MLS gasket, is either acceptable (this was done by the dealership)? Are these motors known for failing crossover tube gaskets like the EJ motors? Seems like all of these gaskets and seals would have been replaced during the short block replacement. Other symptoms: car is burning about 1 quart of oil in 5k miles (0W-20 Castrol Edge) and had issues starting/running a little while ago. When started, it would start then die. It did this twice. The third time I hit the throttle a little and it was fine. Most recent work is a bulkhead wiring harness replacement. No codes. Would bad head gaskets even be covered under the engine block warranty? The block has a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty, but generally labor and other parts are only a year. I don't wan to get into it with Subaru AGAIN without knowing what I'm dealing with and going in prepared. I really don't want to have to do head gaskets in my garage on an FB motor.

So far.. almost 1000 miles on it and it's issue free.

Job finished up well today. Must have had some oil and coolant issues with the replacement gasket for the short while it ran (the car smoked from the tailpipe for about 45 minutes at idle when it started up. I also had a hell of a time getting coolant to circulate, the lower radiator hose stayed ice cold for a long time, pesky air bubbles! Glad it's back on the road again! Thank you everyone for your help and knowledge!

If only there was something decent around to buy. Used Subarus are worth a small fortune around here... With 300k on them. Once I'm done with the head gaskets on my 02 tomorrow, it will start to take the brunt of the mileage

hahaha! so far so good on this round. We've got 300 miles on it since it was there last and it doesn't need to go back yet lol

I got a hold of the manager, tow truck showed up this morning and it's already in a bay. Hopefully it's as simple as just tightening a couple bolts.

One would hope... So far they're ignoring me, but someone will eventually care given it's a safety issue

Here's a video... It's getting worse, I'm assuming they forgot to torque the steering column brace, but I don't dare tear anything apart and get blamed for whatever else they have messed up or forgotten to do.

Idosubaru... I'm confused as well. I'm not sure sure how to describe it, but it happens when tires are rolling and stationary. It is independent of road conditions. I guess I'll contact the delightful dealership again.

A weird bump/popping has developed in the steering column. It feels like it is coming from directly behind the steering wheel and is inaudible. It only happens when the wheel is turned more than 75% to lock in either direction. The steering wheel feels like it is actually shifting in its plane of operation. Does the dash removal require the steering column to be removed in these vehicles (I know it does in other Subarus).

Thank you everyone for the info! I just ordered two of these: 11044AA670

Is one part number better than the other? It looks like the graphite coatings are reversed

That seems to be what I've done. Driver I have to order new gaskets, sounds I get the turbo MLS ones or start eth the single layer graphite coated ones Subaru sold me?

I did writing out on both sides... All the holes looked like they lined up...

Started it this morning and it poured oil from both sides, top and bottom of the heads....

I only had one helicoil in. I couldn't get a second one in. I got a time sert installed and it torqued down to the 30 ftl lbs spec. I'll check it again in the morning after full cure. That being said, I cleaned the area up a little better and realized that this particular bolt hole is actually in the water pump housing, not on the block; so worst case scenario I'm out a new water pump for $150 and I get a nice new clean hole. Working at 4am is not my sharpest time!

It is in car, radiator was removed for the head gaskets and hasn't gone back in yet. A machine shop loaned me a time sert set to try out with a liberal application of loctite 271. If it doesn't work, they said it will need to go to them for repair.

Thank you! How do those work? Will they work with the current messed up hole and slightly crooked threads (or what's left of them)?

So I got the 13/32 drill bit for the helicoil, drilled a nice hole, and then jacked up the threads tapping it. It was all going very well, then the tap kicked off crooked and then slipped in the threads. Helicoil threads in and locks in place, but the bolt won't tighten down on it and ends up spinning the helicoil. Pulling the bolt removes the helicoil. How bad is this? Where do I go from here? I don't think a bigger bolt will fit through the idler... Would something like this be acceptable: https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-BIG-SERT-Oversized-Metric-5012/dp/B003QB5HR6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 How do you ensure the new hole is perfectly centered with the old one?

Picked up the car today. Heater didn't work. I figured they forgot to clip in the temperature control cable behind the glove box... Turns out they broke the clip, ziptied it and it didn't work...

All was going well and then I went to put the last timing idler on the belt to button it all up and it stripped the threads... Helicoil kit was available, but it didn't come with a drill bit and no one has one locally... So I now have a stripped hole in the block and a 13/32 bit on order