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flatfourx4

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About flatfourx4

  • Birthday 03/10/1974

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    Louisiana
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    I Love My Subaru

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  1. Sounds like a possible combination of 1) old gear oil sludge residue on gears and syncros, and/or 2) clutch is dragging ever-so-slightly and keeping pressure/torque on the gears while not moving, or moving slow. Its is all I can think of with an older manual transmission from Soob. If you're going to change the trans fluid consider adding some Trans-X prior to changing. Drive it easy for a while to circulate and warm the fluid so to allow the Trans-X to remove and sludges. OK...really, its not just magic in a can, but do follow the directions. Rock on and GL(good luck)! Stay thirsty.
  2. Its a great Idea. The block and pan are different metals. The copper one bas been the longest "in-use" for Brittish cars (which are...in my mind, garbage. No offense!), but is extremely effective. The motor oil has a 'nominal' static charge. This charge, when not correctly diffused (i.e. through copper-coat) will, in time cause leaks. Hate to sound like a nerd, but the stuff works. All metals react with other dissimilar metals (i.e. steel&aluminum or steel&magnesium, or aluminum/steel). Its basic Chemistry guys. Now that we know that certian metals react in different ways with others, we know to apply these different sealants (silocone based and impregnated with other materials...) to keep our lubricants where they belong. GL (Good Luck) and stay thirsty.
  3. Check the "roll-pin" where the shifter arm meets the transmission input shaft. If it has slack, then it needs to be changed. These were "wear" items and destroyed too many trannys. A stainless steel bolt with "shoulder" (304ss) should be sufficient. These trans had such close tolerences internally, a "sloppy" roll-pin would eat up gears and syncros. Witnesses it too many times out West years ago. Holla /pm if you need any technical assistance. Rock on and GL(good-luck)! Stay thirsty.
  4. Remember you distributor and block are dissimilar metals as well as bolts. Look for any oxidation on mating surfaces. Sand appropriately and never be afraid to use "Neverseize" on steel bolts that go into aluminum or magniesium. Also, use a little di-electric grease between mating surfaces of block and distributor base. Oxides on these surfaces prevent electrons from flowing (i.e. It prevents proper grounding of current). Good luck and stay thirsty
  5. Can you pull the relay apart? The relay has a "contact-point" (i.e. points in an old ignition distributor). Use a "contact-file, or piece of fine sand paper to "file" the points. Sometimes those points get a "burn" on tuem and prevent them from making "contact" when the electromagnet pulls them into contact. Even though ot still functions on one part (electromagnet side) it will not allow 12v to flow out to the fan. I have rebuilt many in the past and either feel that may be the issue, or the brushes on the fan motor, have become "glazed." Using quotation marks for emphasis. Good luck! With a few picks and/or flathead screwdrivers an old-fashioned relay will open up an you will see that there isn't much to them. Relays take a small induction curren and allow a larger curren to "connect." What this means is this: 12v @0.3 Amps from the switch, through a relay, allows 12v @5-20 Amps to reach the fan motor. One side of the relay is "low-amps" and the other side is "higher-amps." Hope this helps and good luck.
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