sidedown

Not sure if anybody suggested this yet. Have you checked the rear sway bar end links? I has the same car and at about the same mileage the end links both dried up and would rattle around when going over bumps at any speed. If you're not familiar with that part they look like small barbells and are attached behind both rear wheels to the sway bar which crosses underneath the rear of the car.

Check the end-links on the rear sway bar. When one of mine went I noticed significantly greater "rolling" in corners.

I did already get it. Thanks for the offer anyway, I appreciate it.

Not for a Subaru, but if anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. Need a tow vehicle to compliment the subes in the driveway. Ford F250 - 1FTSX21565EA95541

I dont know if the 2000 model year is different, on my '00 OB wagon there is a small slot in the buckle which connects to the center shoulder belt (pass side of rear center seat). A small screwdriver or key will release it. After this the shoulder belt retracts into the roof. If it didnt release this way I dont know how the rear seats would be able to fold down.

The passenger side plugs are accessible after removing the airbox. Driver side is a little tight, try not to repeat my first time mistake. My first time replacing the driver side plugs I removed the front boot from the plug, then I figured it would be easier if I pulled out the washer fluid reservoir. Mistake was after I removed the washer fluid lines, the reservoir squirted into the plug well and filled it with washer fluid. Luckily the spark plug was still in, just took a few mins extra to swab all the fluid out so it didnt run into the motor. But once the washer reservoir is out, its easy to get both driver side plugs. I have never tried the fender access way, but have heard that is easy.

Might not be your problem, but on my Outback had the same smell. Finally found it was coming from the fuel line connection on the engine side of the fuel filter. Would have fuel smell at startup, but could never find any signs of a leak. Looks like the subaru clamp wasnt working right and was allowing a little fuel to seep when the fuel pump primed at startup. Never could see it after driving because air flow probably dried it. New worm gear type hose clamps solved the smell.

Just did mine, usually the symptoms you have are accompanied by noise from the bearings going bad also. Many stores, autozone here, have testers for the alternator. Problem is, many of them have bench tests that wont accomodate foreign alternators, so they can only test them while in the car.

Although I've never had the 'left the parking lights on" problem, I would say that one of the things I like about subarus is that the hazard light switch is in the middle of the dash where you can actually get at it in a hazard situation. I've used it quite a few times where traffic slows and the car behind is rapidly approaching. Much easier to hit that switch out in the open instead of reaching through the steering wheel.

Just had this on my '00 Outback. I bought the bolts (with springs) and the gasket from the dealer, only place that had it but the price wasnt too bad. I had to cut the old bolts and drill the rusted/cooked in parts out of the flange before reinstalling new. After that just clean the connecting parts on the 2 pipes, slip on the new gasket and reconnect. Be careful to tie up the rear half of the exhaust system while you have it apart, or just remove it. I was just fitting the connection together and it dropped and broke the gasket on the midpipe to muffler connection. After replacing that too, it is as quiet as when I bought it.

Had the same problem on a '92 wagon I used to have. The access panel in the trunk or cargo area was covered by a sheet of tape sealant painted the same as the body of the car. Peel that back and the access plates will be visible. On mine, one of the lines on top of the tank was seeping and I was able to replace it through there to the connection by the left rear wheel. Also, had a problem where the filler neck was seeping at the bottom of its curve to the tank. That would be on the passenger side though. For that I just removed the bad section and patched in a new piece. Should be easy to see if that is the leak, the pipe looked pretty well soaked on mine.

What model Sube is this? I remember seeing on an old XT a switch under the dash for a "winter mode" which left the wipers up a bit.

Just looked at this thread for the frist time, lots of great pics. Had to add one of what my brothers did with my old wagon.

I have the same car and mine went this past summer. I recall the end links being about $10 each from the dealer. They are just small ball type joints. They go on easy. To remove/replace them you need whatever size metric wrench and an allen wrench for counterpressure. The allen wrench fits inside the exposed end of the bolt where it attaches to the sway bar and the rear suspension. Noticeable difference in handling when they were reattached.

This was posted earlier and it worked for mine... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4857