Bighorncrag

I haven't been on the board in a while, but since I started this string and have since resolved the issue, I figger I should give an update. The intermittent no-start condition (yet would compression start without fail) was in fact the distributor. Don't know exactly which internal part was the culprit, but I transferred my existing cap and rotor to a replacement distributor last summer, dropped it in, set the timing, and all the trouble went away.

Welcome aboard!

Just a heads up for those who don't often travel I-5 southbound between Tacoma and Olympia: traffic is often brutal on your average Friday afternoon. 3 lanes wide stop and go for approx 15 miles, particularly through DuPont and past JBLM. Hoping you travelers hit the traffic lottery and experience smooth sailing. Jerry

Hey thanks, MilesFox. I used some ultra grey along with a few spots of High Tack sealant and the gasket remained in place. Throttle body is bolted on.

Had fuel injector quit on my 88 GL wagon EA82 SPFI. Have a donor throttle body from a previously running EA82 (buddy replaced with EJ22 swap). Everything cleaned, ready to install the donor throttle body. Went to apply the new rubber gasket/seal (from NAPA, could this be the problem?) to the channels in the underside of the base only to discover the seal seems to be too small. When I get one side in place and work my way around the perimeter to the opposite side, it pulls the first side out. Is there a trick to installing these rubber seals like applying some sort of substance (whatever that might be) to make it expand a bit? I know when installing an oil pump seal, it must be installed dry since it expands once the oil contacts it. Does the throttle body seal require a different approach? Or is this simply a defective seal and I should find a different brand?

Welcome. Spent my childhood 120 miles north of Spokane. Fond memories.

Here's a great write-up but unfortunately when the site was upgraded, most of the photo links were lost. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/99811-ej-22-swap-project-loyale/ Here's another great resource... http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm

Well, how 'bout that! Yes, the check engine light is on. Learn something new all the time. I never knew there was such a thing as a solenoid for the EGR. Just looked it up and thankfully not something that will break the bank. Any method for checking the EGR vacuum solenoid? Not to be distracted from the problem at hand, the cap and rotor are brand new. I'll have to check the other wires too but then again, when it idles, it idles relatively smoothly with no exaggerated missing sounds. So without checking the other wires, I'm concluding that if there is weak or no spark in one hole, the others are likely the same.

My do-it-myself ability hits a brick wall when it comes to diagnosing ignition problems. Having fully accepted I bought someone else's problems back in April, I'm sending out my plea. 1988GL Wagon EA82 SPFI 4x4 all stock I'll give a full history of my experiences with the car, however whether or not all the details play into the current problem, I don't know. From day one, the engine has idled fine, wouldn't necessarily say smoothly but undetectable unless you know what to listen for. Acceleration has a stumbling range up to about half throttle and up to approx 3000rpm. If you mash the throttle to the floor, it accelerates, I guess as most EA82s should. Once over roughly 3000rpm, it accelerates fine without stumbling however not smooth, as if maybe not enough power in the spark, maybe out of time; whatever it is escapes me. Sometime before I purchased it, one cylinder had a spark plug thread repair done shoddily, electrode of plug is appox 3/8" above where it should as the threaded sleeve wasn't installed properly. Once earlier this past summer, the car wouldn't start one morning (starter engaging as it should, sounded like it either wasn't getting fuel or spark). Around midday, I loosened the collar around the TBI throat and lifted the air intake. Hit the starter, the engine coughed then died. I put the air intake back in place, tightened down, hit the starter and after several revolutions it came to life. Sputtered til it burnt the excess fuel. No problems for several months. Had the same thing late September or early October of the engine not starting. Tried the same sequence as my previous experience although this time it didn't start. Ended up compression starting and once I dumped the clutch, the engine started. It started fine throughout the day. It has been starting intermittently (problems only in the morning) now for close to two months yet every time I attempt to compression start it, it has always started, until earlier this week. About a month ago when I was fussing with it not starting, I pulled a plug wire and inserted an old cv axle roll pin in the plug wire clamp and held it close to the plug while an assistant ran the starter. The spark was weak a couple of times when it fired, strong spark one time, but for several revolutions of the engine there was no spark. On that occasion I compression started and it ran fine and started fine the rest of that day. Now the engine won't start even when compression starting. So far, I have replaced the cap and rotor (although probably wasn't necessary). I purchased a coil as someone told me the coil may have failed and had possibly been producing a weak signal causing the stumbling under a load (didn't make a whole lot of sense as I was getting it to start by compression starting). I tested resistance on the old coil and compared to the resistance of new coil; readings are very close (maybe a needle width on the meter). I intend to return the new coil to the store. I also set up the timing light but it did not detect any spark when I ran the starter. The symptoms have been intermittent until now. I'm stumped and am ready to take it to a shop. Hoping a seasoned mechanic can give me some advice.

I too would advise staying away from the Chinese market in "new" axles. EMPI, A1Cardone, OPparts, and FEQ are all made in China and have proven unreliable. Yes, you'll find some that end up being good and lasting a long time but it's more of a gamble than adding new grease and boots to your old OEM axles. If the joints are shot and replacing the boots is pointless, try Altrom brand parts. Altrom can be located here. Altrom is an aftermarket brand out of Japan, comes highly recommended by a local repair shop I'm acquainted with as well as another local shop operated by a former Subaru dealer tech. I like the mixing and matching of suspension recommended by JesZek. I may have to do some experimenting on my own 88 GL Wagon with JesZek's setup.

The Silver Bullet Lives! Last night I checked, rather just visually looked at the fusible links, may have touched them (likely why I had momentary success), but not very thorough. Tonight, I not only rechecked, I removed and inspected the fusible links. Result was the black link (closest to the shock tower) was the culprit. Thanks WoodsWagon. Don't know how well it shows in the photo, but the spade is discolored from heat. The one spade has good grip on the blade, the other (burnt) spade slides on and off of the blade without much resistance. At least it is working for now. Friday I'll go buy four new fusible links and just start fresh with all of them. Thanks gents for your suggestions/advice. Now if any of you are inclined to experience what I did, unplug the black fusible link. Now go hit the ignition and see what happens.

Tried the parking light switch on top of the column, nothing lights up. I had the lower half of the plastic trim off the steering column earlier and wiggled the wiring harness around. Even tapped on the ignition cylinder while actively turning the key. No results.:-\

I initially tried the ignition again, still get the door chime when the key is in the ignition. With ignition switch in "ON" position, instrument panel remains blank, no results to hitting "START." Thanks Miles Fox. Not sure how positions in the fuse panel would be designated numerically, but all fuses and fusible links are good. I removed several fuses and tried the ignition, still nothing. I continued with this action with no results. All the fuses were good. After fiddling with fuses for a time, I tried the ignition and all of a sudden had idiot lights on the instrument panel, hit the starter and the engine fired immediately. I allowed it to run for approx one minute then turned off the ignition. Tried again, instrument panel blank, no response to hitting start. Fiddled with fuses some more to see if I could duplicate. Nothing. Disconnected the battery for a couple minutes then reconnected hoping for the off chance it would reset a faulty ECU. Nothing. All wiring in the engine bay is undisturbed and positioned and connected as it should be. I want to reiterate the symptoms in attempt to be as descriptive as possible. Things that aren't working: 1. No idiot lights on the dash when turning the key to "ON." 2. No clicking or action at starter when turning key to "START." 3. No dome light in forward part of cabin. 4. No brake lights 5. No power windows 6. No head lights (don't work anyway without the ignition on, do they?) 7. None of the typical items that function with the ignition switch in the "ON" position are functioning. Things that are working like they should, and act like they are getting full power as if all systems were working properly with fully charged battery: 1. Power door locks work 2. Hazards work 3. Horn works 4. Rear utility light at rear of cabin works. I am 100% confident I have a good battery and a good battery connection. It is acting like there is an open major circuit in the system based on the symptoms. I am suspicious of the ignition switch and the ECU. Again all fuses and fusible links are good. Stumped. Hoping to avoid lining the pockets of my favorite repair shop.

When I first started the engine this morning, the starter turned over strong and everything was working as it should, or so I thought. Shortly (2 blocks) after starting my day, I made what I intended to be a brief stop. When coming to a stop and depressing the clutch, I noticed the rpm stayed at 3k for a 4-5 seconds then idled down to around 1200 rpm. I then shut off the ignition. On a whim I hit the ignition again. When I turned the key, no idiot lights on the instrument panel lit, and the gauges remained lifeless. Nothing on the accessory position, nothing on the run position, and certainly no action at the start position. Bad connection at the battery? No. I have very strong hazard flashers, the door chime dings at me, the rear utility light inside the rear lift gate works, horn works, and the power door locks work. Dome lights above the rear-view mirror don't work and brake lights don't work (two items that should work off the battery). I haven't checked the fusible links yet. I have a notion to disconnect the battery, wait, and reconnect to try to reset the ECU (or does this work with Subaru?). I am very new to Subaru so I am open to all advice and suggestions. I have a working knowledge of electrical systems. I would start a series of eliminations but the symptoms I described have me stumped. If I had a dirty battery terminal, I should still have at least dim or faint idiot lights on the instrument panel. Yet when I hit the key, the instrument panel remains as black as a bat's armpit...but the horn, hazards, power door locks and rear utility light all work.:confused::confused:

Did your brother have to replace the axle and bearings or did it take care of things by having correct parts and proper torque to the spindle nut?