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suprunner

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suprunner last won the day on August 24 2020

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About suprunner

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    New User
  • Birthday 02/23/1989

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  • Location
    Henderson, Nevada
  • Occupation
    Student
  • Vehicles
    1998 OBW, 1997 Toyota 4Runner

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  1. Found two bulbs on the passenger side that had corroding sockets. Unplugged them. While running, and lights off, voltage just continues to drop. Over a 10 minute period of idling, the voltage at the battery dropped from 14.6 to 14.0, even when I had the lights off, and any other accessory power-draw deleted. Safe to say my alternator is dying?
  2. Subarupartsdeal states that the original part # and replacement part # have been discontinued. They purchase/supply from Subaru warehouses.
  3. I'll triple check again. Will running the car off of just the alternator for-sure fry it if it is under-charging? Or will that not have any detrimental effect? So, just the general harness for the rear lights/hatch? The symptoms show up with the lights-off AND with the hazards going. Also, Bosch or Denso Reman? Thanks! Greg
  4. Thanks! I'll start looking. I have put "upgraded" grounding wires in and filed-off paint from the usual body-mounts (e.g. small ground off of battery, transmission-to-body-ground). The alternator is old, and has lived in the Las Vegas heat without a garage for the past two years. I'll check around. Thank you! Greg
  5. So, I've recently come into a problem. I've noticed an intermittent whirring/whistling noise coming from the center/center-bottom of the dash. Almost sounds as if there's a cd in a disc-player rotating at a high speed. I don't have a cd-player, and I've also removed the fuse from the radio, and the noise still comes. Anyway, when the noise comes on, it follows the RPMs of the motor. If I depress the accelerator, the noise gets louder. While idling (and noise present), if I press on the brake pedal the lights pretty much completely cut out, and the motor almost dies. In the videos you can hear the noise, and see the idle responses. It frequency of brake-taps is consistent with the motor behavior. ALSO, if I turn on the hazard lights, the idling bobbing/cutting with the lights cutting follows the frequency of the hazards and/or turn signals. When the whirring goes away, the symptoms are gone. Do I all of a sudden have a really bad ground? All lights are functional; nothing out. '98 OBW with 251/25D hybrid Recent work (past 6 months): New OEM MAF New OEM TPS New OEM ignition coil New OEM plugs New OEM wires New OEM 5mt neutral switch New OEM 5mt reverse light switch New Fuel pump relay (symptoms were present before I went playing under the dash) Done in the past two years: fuel pump fuel filter Timing belt New OEM Cam Gears I'm pretty bad at electrical diagnostics, any suggestions/advice would help. Battery has 12.5v just sitting. 12.8v while idling. Thanks for your time folks, Greg
  6. I recommend looking at doing the calculations: https://www.engineersedge.com/mechanics_machines/transmission-gear-ratio-calculator.htm Also, your final drive gear (5th or 6th) will determine the RPMs that you might be traveling at, and consequently how much fuel you'll be consuming... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-gear-ratios-and-final-drives-229267.html?s=27d9dbc6d83925f40022ef69a180bc77& http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart I bought a 5mt from a JDM '05 LGT wagon, and swapped in the stub shafts and speedo gear for my '98 Outback. Splitting the case and removing/reinstalling everything isn't that bad, honestly. I've got 10 thumbs and I didn't think it was too bad. There are a bunch of write-ups on splitting the case... https://www.voisin.ch/subaru/docs_techniques/2008_impreza_wrx_&_sti_manuel_atelier/wrx/wrx_transmission/5mt_manual_trans_&_diff.pdf Once it's open, the ring/pinion gear are easily accessed, and removable... hope any of this helps! Greg
  7. I finally pulled the short block (SOA478H600R1) that I purchased a couple months ago out of the box and put onto a stand. Changed out the 7mm oil pump for a 9mm that I had (I don't think I'll need a 10mm as I'm a conservative driver, and this is just for a DD project). Looking at the pistons, they're labeled as 255 SH. Is this going to be a problem mounting with DOHC heads? When I was talking with a subaru parts tech over the phone I had specified that I wanted an EJ251 or EJ253 short block for '03-'05, and they had given me the part number. I had then talked with a different Parts Tech, and they confirmed that that part number was for what I had specified. Are the pistons the same? I thought the 255s were used with the AVL systems, and can't work with pre-AVLS. . Should I be looking for new pistons now? The current motor in my car is an EJ from a 2001 Impreza, with DOHC heads. I wanted to recreate the build as it is generally a nice and powerful (enough) motor. Also, I bought a brand new subaru water pump because I thought the stock one that came on the block was supposed to be forward facing.... What showed up is identical to the spare I bought. They are identical, right? Thanks all, Greg
  8. Alright, thank you. What do you think about trying to find a used compressor over a remanufactured over brand new? I was looking to call a couple yards up in the northern latitudes, hoping even with higher mileage it might have seen less usage because of the fewer hot days... Whereas buying something used down here in the desert, and I'd guess it's probably close to toast?
  9. Thank you. How do I capture the system gasses without venting to the atmosphere? How much would a shop charge me to just take a little bit out?
  10. Crank pulley is on tight. This only happens when i've turned the A/C on.
  11. Video of the clutch. The part that the belt rotates on spins freely. AC compressor.mp4
  12. So if it's the compressor, I could grab a used one from car-part, or a local yard? What about replacing oil? I'm guessing the compressors will be empty when I get them from the yard or from car-part. isn't there an intricate measuring protocol necessary? AC compressor.mp4
  13. Hi, I loosened the belt, and it definitely was chirping/squealing at me, but the A/C was still blowing cold air with less drag. I tightened it just a touch to stop the squealing, and the dragging feeling is back.
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