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suprunner last won the day on September 1 2018

suprunner had the most liked content!

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About suprunner

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    New User
  • Birthday 02/23/1989

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    Forest Service
  • Vehicles
    1996 Legacy, 1992 Loyale
  1. Might this have caused a belt slip? I guess I'll be looking for new cam gears. Cheapest I've found are $80 a pop.
  2. Rick, my English was poorly worded. The heads had been refurbished by the subaru shop. The cam gears were purchased alongside them. I can't attest to their actual ages, as I believe they were used inventory. Is there no visual inspection that can be done to see if there is the beginnings of failure? Or is it an all-or-nothing fail? Greg
  3. Thank you all for the input. I will only be purchasing a tensioner and belt. These cam gears appear to be in good shape. I picked them up from a subaru specialty shop in Boulder, CO when I bought my heads from them. They were refurbished. Is there a setup process for the tensioner? I'd been told that I'm to remove the pin, then compress the piston, and replace the pin. . . all before installation. I had not utilized this technique when installing the gates tensioner. Take care, Greg
  4. Hi all, Recently had the timing belt on my DOHC skip some teeth. Was a brand new belt kit including tensioner. Was a Gates-brand. Well, I reset everything and about 500 miles later I believe it has skipped at least a single tooth, so I've parked it. I will purchase a brand new Subaru OEM belt and tensioner for it. My question centers around parts interchangeability. After perusing through opposed forces: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_28/engine/timing_belt_cover/ I've noticed that the '00-'07 WRX wagon has a 2.5L motor with timing covers that have timing belt guides for the cam sprockets as well as the crank. Any reason that these shouldn't work on the EJ25D? I'd like to add some additional security to the system. It seems to keep jumping off of the cams on the passenger side. Thoughts and advice will be appreciated. Greg
  5. I will try this. Although it is not a metallic and hard clack, it is a softer tick, that I feel like I can hear, isolated on the passenger side. Greg
  6. I think/hope at worst myself or fiancé downshifted too aggressively while under load. I was also recently told that you have to prime the TB tensioner before installation. News to me. I've done about 10 timing belts now, and I haven't had one fail... it had been down in Denver for a couple nights... our last wagon looked as if it had gone through a war from all of the people that hit it while parked. So maybe that? What year is your 5speed? Greg
  7. Thanks for the advice. I did a compression check. 3 attempts per cylinder. #1, #2, and #4 all had 190 psi, while cylinder #3 had 200. Vehicle runs and drives well. I spoke with a +20 year lead tech at a Subaru dealership in Golden. He said I'm most likely fine. My fingers are crossed. I will be in search of JDM timing belt covers from early-mid 90's. I've been told they have mounts for a timing belt guide on each upper cam.
  8. EJ251/25D hybrid Original posting with backstory: timing belt jumped a few teeth headed up I-70 two days ago. Reset timing, and it runs well, but noticeable tick coming from the passenger side of the motor. That is the side that the belt skipped. Yet to do a compression test, but I wanted to know what my options are if a valve or two bent. I'm supposed to start grad school this coming Monday, and need to get from Denver to Las Vegas. I'm limited on time. If I don't fix the valves, what are the chances it eats the valves while driving down there? I know I can have a motor out and apart within 4 hours, but the time it takes to get parts and everything needed gets me down to the wire on being at school on time. If I can at least get it to Nevada, I have a garage that'll allow me time to fix it properly... Thoughts?
  9. Thanks Bennie. There's a definite tick coming from that side of the engine now.
  10. Pulled timing covers off. Passenger side cams off by three or four teeth. what did I do wrong? I'm bummed this motor is trashed. I really liked the hybrid setup. I won't have time to fix valves. Grad school starts next Monday.
  11. GD, do I idle the engine and test voltage at the injectors? Just did NOID test and there is a pulse light on all four injectors, yet I'm still getting low voltage codes for all injectors. Greg
  12. A-zone tested the alternator out of vehicle and it passed.
  13. I just rewired the injectors from a hot-wire that I attempted. Sprayed QD cleaner in all connections of the engine harness. I now had 12v at every injector, with key in ON. Started the motor. Sounds mildly better, maybe more balanced, but got P-codes for every injector getting low voltage. Tested the alternator while idling (no lights), got 13.4v. Turned lights on, and got 13.2 with falling numbers. Took the alternator out to get tested. Could this be a contributor?
  14. I completely forgot about them. I'll give them a call. thank you
  15. Hi all. In a pinch. Currently stranded in Golden/Denver Colorado. Vehicle: 1998 Outback engine: ej251/25D hybrid Story: swapped a great running motor from my rusty '96 to this '98. In the process I put a NEW timing kit, NEW oem plugs, new oil pump, new clutch-kit/slave cyl., new oil pressure sender... ran beautifully all the way here from South Dakota, with many trips up and down the canyons from Hwy 119 to the Front Range. Two days ago, CEL came on and I stopped at an auto parts store. Got two misfire codes, and not having noticed any symptoms I cleared it. It coincided with using the a/c, so I moved the a/c harness off of/away from the spark plug wire. I figured something may have arced. No issues until trying to climb out of Denver up I-70 yesterday. CEL came on and flashed a few times. Pulled the car immediately to the side of the road and was turned off. Oil light did NOT come on. Symptoms came. Horribly shaky idle, no power. I checked all spark plugs (on the side of the road), and they were tight, and looked in okay condition. Idles like it is missing cylinders. While idling I pulled off/on all spark plug wires and injectors. No difference (except VERY minor idle-up for 1 second) with cylindees 1/3. Motor dies when 2/4 are pulled. Got towed to a local dealership and they were nice enough tp read the codes. P0261, and P0267 I believe this is Low/No voltage to cylinders 1 & 3 injectors. (In my frenzy I installed a new coil, and new spark plug wires) I took a volt meter to the yellow wire of each injector plug, with ignition switched to ON. 2 & 4 get 12v, 1 & 3 are dead. I tried directly wiring the yellow wires to the battery, and there was no difference in engine performance. Where/what should be my next step? Is it true that the injectors get constant power, but the ECU/ECM adjusts the pulse timing via internal grounds? I'll be looking at diagrams today to try and get this going...any suggestions will help. I'm supposed to be getting towed back up to Gilpin County where I'll have a garage to sit in. Thank you in advance for any suggestions! Greg