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suprunner last won the day on September 1 2018

suprunner had the most liked content!

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About suprunner

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    New User
  • Birthday 02/23/1989

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  • Location
    Henderson, Nevada
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  • Vehicles
    1998 OBW, 1997 Toyota 4Runner
  1. Oh dang! It increased pressure by maybe 2psi as I increased the revolutions. . Shoot-dang, I forgot to do the pinch-off test. I'll have to rent the pressure gauge again. Was running out of time and light. Greg
  2. Open-house on the FPR: 36/38psi Closed-hose FPR: 28/29psi where to next?
  3. I just rented the fuel pressure gauge, hopefully I'll get a reading tomorrow after school. Fuel pump is Delphi FE0150. It looks pretty similar, just smaller. The main difference is the size, and the terminals for power. The stock fuel pump has the two separate terminals that you attach wires with screws to. The new Delphi has a male receiver that a female plug inserts to. Funny thing is, the fuel pump I'm currently running is an Import Direct that I bought 6 years ago to replace the OEM pump on my '96... and it has the same plug-type as this newer delphi. I was tempted to try and run it, but I'd have to zip-tie it or hose-clamp it to the holder that inserts into the fuel tank. one of the fellas on the 2nd Gen Legacy facebag group mentioned my symptoms were reminiscent of when his injectors had failed. Think it's connected? I know they have power when I multimeter them, and I've used the noid lights.. Thanks, Greg
  4. Hi, thank you for responding. I apologize for not returning feedback, I've been a bit busy with school finals month. Turns out the fuel pump I had purchased for the car was for a 2000+ subaru. And unfortunately I can't return it to Rock Auto since I purchased it more than a year ago. Do you think it's worth purchasing another pump? Would the pump from the 2000 work? It's much smaller....
  5. Hey, Thank you for taking the time to respond. I've been a bit swamped with finals month at school right now. The car is building static electricity with just idling in place, and not moving. Still normal?
  6. Hi, Thank you for responding and I apologize for not getting back. It's finals month right now at school. I do not have anything left over from the '96. So, I can't swap the ICM, Won't be able to swap the TPS either. I did just check Resistance with the TPS... I followed the above's instructions. I'm attaching the readings that I got. I wasn't sure which terminal was 1 or 3. I figured the center terminal was #2 though. I swapped out MAF for a rebuilt MAF that I had purchased years ago. No change. Still has a dead-spot/hesitation at start-up when I first touch the accelerator, and unbalanced feeling at 2000 rpm +/- 100 rpm all the time.
  7. Just added a new ground from the intake manifold to the other strut tower, and cleaned up one on the inside of the frame rail on the passenger side. No difference upon startup for the hesitation or the unbalanced feeling at/around 1800/2200 rpm mark. But, I got shocked to hell with static electricity when I got out of the car after backing out of my garage and parking in the street... I'm assuming that's not normal?
  8. Coil is aftermarket. Same symptoms with OEM coil. Plugs, wires are all new subaru, and no oil. I currently have a ground coming from the battery to the intake manifold, to the strut tower, and to the body right behind the headlight. Bare metal for the body mounts listed. I will look over other grounds.
  9. Hi all, Working with an EJ251/EJ25D hybrid. Recent work done (in the past 3000 miles): Spark Plugs (OEM Subaru) Spark Plug Wires Ignition Coil New Timing belt Components (subaru oem) New Subaru Camshaft sprockets (OMG $$$$) Group N Motor and Transmission mounts/bushings New Subaru OEM O2 sensor New GrimmSpeed Exhaust manifold gaskets New Subaru OEM exhaust gaskets at Y-collector and right behind rear O2 sensor. New Subaru Air Filter Coolant Temp Sensor (for ecu) replaced about 4 years ago. Motor originally lived in a '96 Legacy wagon, and was recently moved into a '98 Outback wagon (5mt) Symptoms that I experienced in the '96 were as follows: When bringing RPMs up to the 1800 to 2300 range there is an odd imbalance/shudder that takes place. This happens whether I'm driving, or sitting still in neutral. On very hot days (anything above 80, so here in Las Vegas that is a normal...) if the fuel tank is below half, the motor will bob up and down +/- 150-300 rpm during idle for about a minute or two and then settle out. The components that stayed the same with the motor transplant was the entire motor (including intake), Fuel filter (which is about 5 years old), and fuel pump (which is 6 years old). NOW in addition to the above symptoms, upon startup, for the first 5 minutes of driving, when I initially touch the accelerator the motor briefly (maybe .25/.5 seconds) stalls and then gains RPMs. Once fully warmed up this hesitation goes away. I just recently got a CEL for a misfire in cylinders 3 and 4 while driving on the highway for 20 minutes. I bought a propane torch and attempted looking for a vacuum leak, but didn't find anything. I unplugged a vacuum line running from the intake to the FPR, which caused an idle-up, and then I pointed the propane torch into the vacuum and caused another little idle-up. No idle-up happened when putting the propane at any place I tried (along intake manifold/hoses), brake booster hose, injectors, PCV hoses, basically everywhere. Question #1: Could these symptoms be related? Question #2: what plan of attack would you suggest? Right now I was guessing that I should check my fuel pressure since the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and all fuel components (except fuel lines of the new body) were around before the motor swap. . . What is the likely hood of Injectors being an issue? I do have another (brand new) fuel pump that I could install but haven't had time with grad school. I'm pretty sure they are stock. Compression is good in all cylinders, doesn't leak/consume oil. Thank you for your time, Greg
  10. Might this have caused a belt slip? I guess I'll be looking for new cam gears. Cheapest I've found are $80 a pop.
  11. Rick, my English was poorly worded. The heads had been refurbished by the subaru shop. The cam gears were purchased alongside them. I can't attest to their actual ages, as I believe they were used inventory. Is there no visual inspection that can be done to see if there is the beginnings of failure? Or is it an all-or-nothing fail? Greg
  12. Thank you all for the input. I will only be purchasing a tensioner and belt. These cam gears appear to be in good shape. I picked them up from a subaru specialty shop in Boulder, CO when I bought my heads from them. They were refurbished. Is there a setup process for the tensioner? I'd been told that I'm to remove the pin, then compress the piston, and replace the pin. . . all before installation. I had not utilized this technique when installing the gates tensioner. Take care, Greg
  13. Hi all, Recently had the timing belt on my DOHC skip some teeth. Was a brand new belt kit including tensioner. Was a Gates-brand. Well, I reset everything and about 500 miles later I believe it has skipped at least a single tooth, so I've parked it. I will purchase a brand new Subaru OEM belt and tensioner for it. My question centers around parts interchangeability. After perusing through opposed forces: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_28/engine/timing_belt_cover/ I've noticed that the '00-'07 WRX wagon has a 2.5L motor with timing covers that have timing belt guides for the cam sprockets as well as the crank. Any reason that these shouldn't work on the EJ25D? I'd like to add some additional security to the system. It seems to keep jumping off of the cams on the passenger side. Thoughts and advice will be appreciated. Greg