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Subaru Scott

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Everything posted by Subaru Scott

  1. Thanks for sharing your adventures! I really love your stub shaft seal sleeve mod, that's definitely thinking outside the box!
  2. I think if the center diff were mechanically locked, the TCU would have no way of knowing... till you did a burnout. Of course it would take a lot of work to fool it. You'd need ABS sensors as well. I've always thought it would be cool to just hook up manual switches to the CVT. Maybe like a lever or paddle switch on the column to change ratio. And a microswitch on the gas pedal to control the converter, just like the Justy ECVT.
  3. If you have access to a lift, running it in gear with a stethoscope, or just a stick pressed up to your ear and the hubs, you can find it pretty quick. The EA82s would get “bruised” bearings sometimes. We used to service some from a rental fleet that would get this (nothing parties like a rental). Damn near impossible to find without this method because they would never get loose, just make noise.
  4. Yeah, anymore for stuff like that I have to double up the reading glasses and/or break out the magnifying glass. Get it in the right light and hold your mouth just right. Otherwise, try to find your calipers. I have 3 cheap plastic ones, a digital, and a pen that is also a tiny caliper, and still can’t find one sometimes!
  5. Oh, you bet they are. But all the other no-name ultra cheapies on ebay are nearly $200. And this is a Walker. Just looking for something to get me by for awhile, till I EJ swap or at least get everything I need to weld up a stainless header. Using it as my daily right now, and it's patched-up and loud. Not the kind of loud that's cool either. More like a fart through a wet swimsuit.
  6. Yeah, I think I asked you about it being to wide on another thread. Go to the Speeduino forum. You can get pretty much all the details there, reading about other builds.
  7. The four numbers are the bearing size. Replace with like numbers. There will be a letter suffix which will designate seal type and other qualities of the bearing. Rubber is fine, probably seals better anyway. Metal is used where there is a chance for exposure to particles which would damage rubber. I think it's pretty well protected from anything like that. Unless you typically blast down gravel roads... tailgating trucks.
  8. The way I see it, you've got nothing to lose. Unless you were planning to get rich selling the CVT.
  9. Welcome aboard, "John." I think you will find that, re-habbing old Subarus is pretty satisfying. If you can win the rust battle, everything else is cake, because they will always run! And if you can manage to save the wagon, you'll find it's just as much fun as the Brat.
  10. I don't see why you couldn't take the center diff out and weld it, or fix it in some other manner. Old hot rodders used to fill them with molten lead. Best thing would be to find someone on here who has a bad diff, and would gladly pay shipping both ways to swap with you. Then, weld away with no regrets!
  11. Bratman, do you know where the clearance issue is in that scenario? I've never seen a BRZ transmission up close, so I'm trying to imagine what would get in the way. Can you not use an EJ nose-coneless starter on that side? And the BRZ starters are the direct-drive with a nosecone that hits the engine flange?
  12. I believe the flanges are floating. That is, they are separate from the pipe and just hold the flared-out end of the pipe against the gasket. Which is even better because you can use the alternate holes on the head if the regular ones are stripped. It's also good if you need to change the angle of the pipe going back to the collector if you wanted to... (ahem) run them into a straight Y... for off-road purposes only, of course.
  13. Yes, well, of course YMMV... And you will be able to source endless accounts of people who swear their new shocks/struts made their car handle like a Cadillac, or a race car. Whatever it is they were going for. They just spent hundreds (or thousands) on the latest XYZ Purple fusion abracadabra struts, and now they're in a completely different car. And they're not necessarily lying, most will make themselves believe it. Just like how it shifts better with a $150 weighted shift knob! EA81s never had pressurized gas struts/shocks from the factory. When they are loose from the spring, they do not try to extend. Pressurized gas helps to keep the oil from foaming on repeated, high speed oscillations. This can be beneficial when you are driving in a rally race, or down a long staircase. On a bare strut/shock without the spring, if you can feel firm, EVEN, resistance throughout the entire stroke, then it's just fine.
  14. Yeah, a small piece of angle iron across there and bolted through the cable housing bracket itself would fix it right up. The problem will be getting the holes drilled! You might get it done in the car with a right-angle drill and a short bit. But you will probably just have to remove the assembly.
  15. Pretty sure this has GOT to be a mistake, but I have one on the way, and thinking about a 2nd just because why not. https://autoplicity.com/120579-walker-exhaust-15671-universal-fit-converters I ordered mine off ebay, and the ad disappeared immediately from there. Then, I googled the part number, and this is the same company that was selling on ebay. I mean, it's not anything special, but for 35 BUCKS SHIPPED, it'll get you by in hard times (or if you're still not ready to EJ swap, but your exhaust is falling off the car )
  16. "The brumby sat for a very long time (outside I assume) so constant use seems to be good for shocks." Yeah, if they sit for too long, the shaft will begin to rust, and then the seal is history. I've seen regularly used EA81s with the upper metal shock housing completely rusted off and still rocking with no leaks!
  17. You know, the older factory shocks/struts last a ridiculously long time. I hope you didn't throw your old ones away. 100k is barely broken in for a Subaru. I realize their is an awful lot of marketing pressure telling you, "Change your shocks and struts for a better, safer ride!" Were they leaking? I didn't think so. That's how inferiorly made shocks/struts fail. The seal goes bad, they leak out the oil, and the car starts bouncing. Was it bouncing? I didn't think so. Sure, it is possible for the internals to wear while still maintaining the outer seal, but not in my experience. I have been driving Subarus almost exclusively for nearly 40 years, and have never changed out my factory units. Ever. My main work vehicle has over 500k HARD miles with lots of towing. I noticed a few weeks ago that the LF spring is broken at the top coil. Still rides fine, doesn't bounce.
  18. Head on over to Speeduino. DIY, open-source standalone developed by the Aussies. It is tunable and can be configured to work with whatever sensors and injectors you like. You can get into a basic setup for a couple hundred bucks. This is being used on everything from lawn mowers to V-12 tank engines. The future is now!!
  19. Congrats on your find! May be easiest to pull the filler tube off and have an exhaust shop patch it up.
  20. Sounds like alternator or water pump has a bad bearing.
  21. I've used 1 1/2" EMT electrical pipe for long coolant runs. It's pretty cheap, galvanized, and available at any big box store. Just clamp hose right to it. You can even use the pre-bent 90s and 45s to further cut down on long rubber hoses.
  22. YMMV I'll put it this way: Didn't you have one of those light sets on your bicycle as a kid with the generator that ran off the back wheel? Did it seem to you that the drag was so insignificant, that you just left it on all the time? Or, no...
  23. A bugs pan is self-supporting, which is why it was popular for fiberglass bodied kit cars. An EA82 "pan"... NEIN! It will likely fold in half at the first speed bump. And I will bet the engine has also been pre-roasted without any cooling system, and will need head gaskets at the very least. Free stuff is usually more expensive than cheap stuff.
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