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Subaru Scott

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Everything posted by Subaru Scott

  1. Have a look at these, boys! Still available from Subaru in tan.
  2. Subaru Scott


    So out of the 28 Subaru's I've owned, and strangely enough, 28 non-Subaru vehicles, not counting motorcycles or parts cars, these are all vehicles I drove, this is the very first convertible! I did have a Fiat X19, which was close, but it's so cool to look over my shoulder backing up and see nothing! Makes me smile every time Thanks again to Roger for selling me this great car and for driving 5 hours to come rescue me in sub-zero temps when I got stranded by the airline trying to get there!! Always loved the EA81s but never thought I'd ever own one again, much less, THIS My numbers would be a lot higher if it were not for my current 91 Legacy platform creation getting me through the last 13 years and 400k miles. And it's been a long time since I've even wanted to build a hot rod, but living in SW Florida the last couple of years, where there are car shows weekly and musclecars all over, including Cobra's (Cccooobbrraass ) I've been getting the bug again and THIS is the car. So, I'm thinking: STI, replace the turbo with a supercharger + header, 6 speed, RWD, big fat tires and everything (Deep Purple - Highway Star)... can you say "Rocket Sled?" Now, if that proves to be too ungodly, I always have the AWD option, I'll lock the center diff in a way it can be unlocked. I put an EA82t in an 86 hatch loooong time ago (I might have been the first) stock except for a brake spring on the wastegate (12 psi) and pulled the front shafts in non-snow months. That thing was a barnstormer and would roast 15's Now I realize I'm talking a lot more horsepower in this case and also realize I may have to do some chassis beefing. The box beams that were added during the conversion look pretty substantial but... A friend of mine had a 289 Ford Falcon ragtop that would get a 1.5" gap at the drivers door when he did a hole shot The rockers need work anyway so I can cut the outer off, weld box beam/tube in and re-cover. A 6-point rollbar would do the job nicely too! So I've been shopping rolled/totaled STI's and trying to get up to speed on what's what because I kind of stopped paying attention to new stuff back in the early 90's but I'm thinking an 02 or newer for the engine, wiring, brakes, suspension pieces, seats, etc. and a JDM 6 speed if the donor I end up with doesn't have one. Just thinking out loud here, still lots of research to be done. Not asking anyone to figure this out for me... that's half the fun! I WOULD like to ask if anyone has a nice EA81 4WD rear suspension they would sell because the space required for the top to fold down leaves no room for strut towers. Also, I'll be needing to replace the top in the next year or so if anybody has one laying around... Stay tuned! And thank you USMB for my new favorite Sube!! Hopefully I can make it into a mini "Cobraroo" :headbang:
  3. I just went through this with my Tribeca. Read specs until my eyes were crossed. In the past, I always went with Castrol, but after comparing specs with Subaru HP... Mobil1 was the only off-the-shelf I could find that had a comparable viscosity@100 degrees Celsius. Most all other brands thinned out at that temp.
  4. Paul, that's a major short there. Don't bother pulling the smaller fuses, they would have blown already. Not remembering how the circuit path is on those, I'm gonna say the alternator is the most likely first place to check. Unhook the big wire from the alternator and test with a jumper like montana tom said. Don't try to run the engine unless you pull the small wire plug from the alternator as well. If that's not it, start looking for a damaged area in the harness after the underhood fuse box. Check in the drivers fenderwell. Could have had a tire come apart or road debris tear into it there.
  5. I think I would start with a new coolant temp sensor.
  6. This is what I'm talking about: https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiF9drPwZfcAhXLJIYKHfF_C6UYABASGgJ2dQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQOD2w1kDxXOSIrgmX74iIWXbiq4Mhi39Kw5QJ75fsL5W3p1Qkj1fiUEpyqql_Xd6FtjmnTYLy67rIXcq_WAJvR4&sig=AOD64_3Pwd30Tmo7xG_zaa1Avd5J-4YPzA&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwif-NXPwZfcAhXNuFkKHT4UBVwQ9aACCEc&adurl=
  7. Hey, Subasaurus, great idea using the copper tube for terminals!! That's probably the base for commercially made terminals anyway, they just "tin" it to keep it from turning green. I too love the butane soldering irons. They work great and are completely portable. I do love soldered connections, but you have to keep a couple of things in mind: Connections subjected to high vibration, could potentially fracture because all the "give" in the wire was taken away with soldering. I personally have never seen an example of this, and don't believe it is as critical as some claim. Especially if the wire is supported with the vibrating component, well past the wicking point. An additional mechanical connection is preferred, (and required by the NEC in most cases, even though not relevant to automotive systems) because given enough current and resistance, solder will melt. Those ratchet crimpers do a great job up to a #8 wire. Especially the ones with the dies that actually stuff the open ends of the terminals down into the center of the wire like OEM.
  8. Yes, so if you only had the larger #2 terminal on hand, for example, using the hammer crimper. Crimping pliers are not big enough for any cable this size. AWG = American wire gauge. There are also British and European metric sizes. Subarus are technically a metric size, but you really can't find metric terminals here.
  9. Between #2 and #4, depending on year and model. I use the hammer-type crimp tool, which will do a great job on most any size battery cables and ends. They are also very compact to carry with you since the other half of the tool, a BFH, is usually in your tool kit already. Will crimp a #2 end on #4 wire quite nicely as well.
  10. Subaru Scott

    DEQ fail after EJ swap

    Did you hook up the check engine light?
  11. I'd say your chances are pretty good. The coolant dousing your spark would have happened pretty soon after the hose came off. Even though, once all the coolant is gone, the temp sender won't show how hot the engine really is because it will only be sensing the air in the empty coolant passage.
  12. I don't think the words SVX and winter beater belong in the same sentence I would say the trans in the 97 HAS to have been rebuilt or swapped with that kind on mileage. If it shifts good and solid, putting that in the 96 seems like the easiest plan. But I would definitely confirm the final drive ratio. The 4.44s seem to work very well in the SVX. A manual swap would be cool, but more work. Maybe not as much as you think. I understand certain pedal clusters will bolt-in. Manual swap cars do go for a little more, but not really proportional to the time and money required. Too bad you don't have a manual trans parts car too...
  13. The coolant drowned your coil pack and shorted the spark to ground. Spray it down with some WD-40 and then wipe off the excess. Pull the plug wires out and get inside too.
  14. Subaru Scott

    Better Cooling System? EA71

    Sounds like you have another issue. EA71s have more than enough radiator capacity and normally never have overheating problems. If your timing is too retarded it will cause overheating. Too much advance only makes problems when it starts detonating. The fans only come in to play when you are stopped or moving very slowly. Try gunning it with the radiator cap off and see what happens
  15. That's gorgeous. Wonder how many got sucked through the main jet? Was that one made in Italy, or, elsewhere...?
  16. Subaru Scott

    storing engines ....

    You probably already know this, but just in case you weren't aware of all the details: The EA82Ts are head snappers. They crack between the valves and in the exhaust ports. I worked in the dealers when these cars were new, and we would fill pickup trucks up with cracked heads, and use the scrap money for "Chili Fridays." Subaru went through two revisions of the castings till they finally got it "fixed" in 89, but I heard even some of the latest ones cracked. They are identified by the "EA82" cast in the bottom of the head. The first revision had a line cast under the EA82, and the second revision had a box cast around it. I wouldn't keep of try to use anything but the box heads. Not a question of if, but WHEN they WILL crack.
  17. I usually cheat and chuck a variable speed drill on the stem
  18. Subaru Scott

    Seeking engine advice

    Looks like Rallyru is about to ditch his EA81. He lives close enough to you.
  19. Subaru Scott

    No spark troubleshooting

    Nippondenso disributor? Reddish cap?
  20. Subaru Scott

    problem assembling 5MT ....

    Weld something to it to get it out.
  21. Subaru Scott

    Wire Harness for EA to EJ swap.

    No, just remove all the unnecessary wires from the engine donor harness and add it in the vehicle to run the engine systems. The rest of the wiring can remain unchanged. Just have to parallel connections at the ignition switch and instrumentation, and run wiring to the new fuel pump. Easy peasy.
  22. Subaru Scott

    Seeking engine advice

    I daily my 83. Sure, it needs attention from time to time, but certainly not any more than other older cars. Parts are sometimes hard to come by, but not impossible. Just depends on how hard you're willing to try. I'm positive, if you look long enough, you could find a good used engine to drop in and be on your merry way. There have been a few offered here on this forum, sometimes for free! Going EJ22 is also an excellent alternative, and really not that difficult. If the body is in good shape, then it's worth, in my opinion, putting a little time and money in to have yourself a cool, retro ride that will be a fun, dependable car with the right care. I love the 2nd generation styling more and more as they, or I, or both, get older.
  23. Subaru Scott

    2nd gen computer differences

    There is just a jumper that switches it for one or the other. What are you trying to do? Keep the ECS light alive?!?