jasonkaye

SubaruGuy, Did you end up figuring out the wiring to the ignition coil with the blue, yellow, and two black/white striped wires? I'm wiring mine and need a reference!

I had already pulled the oil pump to replace it with one from a parts car. Both oil pumps look to be in good shape, and it'll get new seals of course. I pulled the pistons and cleaned them up. For new piston rings, I can get a set from Subaru for $180 or RockAuto (brand "Sealed Power") for $25. I'm a bit surprised by both prices - do you all have a suggestion on which set to buy?

Reading more through the forums, there seems to be a strong preference for retiring the EA82. This leads me to think I'll just put the refurbished heads on, get this vehicle running in the short term, and in the medium- to long-term look into the EJ22 swap. What do you think?

As I'm waiting for the heads to come back from the machine shop, I've been waffling over how deep to go. I removed the heads with the engine still in the vehicle. In order to check the piston rings, I need to pull the engine. And if I'm pulling the engine and checking/replacing the rings, I might as well split the block and check/replace the main bearings. And while the engine's out, well let's replace the clutch, too. You get my drift - how far down the rabbit hole do I go? Considering this is my daily driver, and I'm stressed out finding rides to and from work, part of me is leaning toward the quicker option: put the refurbished heads on and get the car running. Of course, another part of me is saying, "Hey you're this deep already, might as well go for a complete rebuild." Any wise advice from the forum? Jason

I just finished tearing down the engine enough to remove the cylinder heads. Check out the photo below of the exhaust valve for cylinder #3 (to the right in the photo.) The valve has got that chunk missing, and both valves are caked with carbonized gunk. Well, that explains the systems: no compression on cylinder #3, burning oil out the exhaust, lack of power. The #3 piston doesn't appear to have damage to it's surface. I have another set of cylinder heads that are being serviced by a shop. Before I put those on though, I'd like to get to the bottom of why the valve broke in the first place. Any thoughts? Jason

Alrighty folks... I have an old set of EA82 heads that I brought to a machine shop to get cleaned up and looked at. I'm awaiting their response. but I'm preparing to do a head swap in the coming week. Since you all have been so helpful to me with this and other issues over the years, I'm going to give back and attempt to do a full write-up with photos of my teardown and rebuild. It might be of use to someone on here one day. I'll start a new thread for that, and I'll add the link here. Jason

Thanks all. Well, I ended up taking the car to a shop that says it's leaky valves. I'm waiting for a cost estimate, though I'm leaning heavily toward doing the job myself. I have a set of heads from my previous Loyale that I'll send to a machine shop to do a valve job. Since I'll be diving so deep into the engine anyway, is it worth it to remove the pistons and check the rings? Seems like I should check while I'm in there...

Gloyale, What do I measure to determine that the valves are closing properly?

Just performed a vacuum test, following Dee2's suggestion. The needle on the vacuum gauge fluctuated rapidly between 15 and 18 in-Hg. As I revved the engine, the vacuum increased but maintained a rapid fluctuation over a range of 4 in-Hg. From what I've read, these results indicate worn valve guides. So, do we consider this a confirmed diagnosis, or are there more tests to do?

I just took off the valve cover on what I think is the problematic side of the engine (cylinders #3 and #1, the passenger's side.) Attached are some photos. I don't quite know what to look for, but my untrained eye doesn't see anything obviously wrong. Rear of the engine (cylinder #3) is to the left in the photo; front of the engine (cylinder #1) is to the right in the photo. Primary view of one valve spring, rocker arm, and cam lobe for cylinder #3, below... Primary view of the other valve spring, rocker arm, and cam lobe for Cylinder #3, below... Do you see anything of note in the photos? I will follow Dee2's suggestion to hook up a vacuum gauge this afternoon.

Hi all, My 1991 4WD Loyale stationwagon has been burning some oil for years, which doesn't appear to be a problem so long as I keep the oil level topped off. Recently, things have gotten worse. Now, the car is burning a lot of oil (clouds of smoke out of the exhaust when the engine is first started.) After the engine warms up, the engine appears to be burning less oil, but still burning oil. Yesterday I did a compression test. Cylinders #1, #2, and #4 show about 140psi in a dry test and 160psi in a wet test. Cylinder #3, however, showed zero compression in both dry and wet tests. As far as I understand, this means either worn piston rings or an open valve. Two questions: 1. Do you have suggestions on next diagnostic steps? 2. As this is my daily driver, is it safe to continue to drive this vehicle in its current condition? Or, should I park the thing until it's fixed? Thanks! Jason

UPDATE: One mystery solved; another mystery born. One mystery solved: The first mystery of the "32-spline axles" on the 1990 EA82 has been solved by me being an idiot - the axles are not 32-spline. The DOJ axle cups are all indeed for 23-spline axles; that is, 23 splines where the DOJ connects to the transmission stub shaft. However, the inner race of the DOJ's on the axles I pulled from the 1990 EA82 do have 32 splines. This spline connects both parts of the DOJ inside the axle cup. This appears to be a variation in the manufacturing of the DOJ innards; this variation does not affect how the DOJ connects to the transmission. Another mystery born: The two pictures below pose a new mystery. You'll see that of the four front axles I pulled from similar vehicles, three of them require different sized boots. The pictures below detail this variation on the DOJ's. A similar issue exists at the other end of the axles with the CVJ's. I need help identifying the axles so that I can purchase the right sized boots. Note that the infamous "Wheels and Axles" identification chart - posted above by Dee2 - unfortunately does not have the information I am looking for.

Hey all, I'm in the process of cleaning, re-greasing and re-booting the two front driveaxles on my 1991 Loyale 4WD EA82 manual transmission. I pulled those axles today - one axle might be OEM, and the other axle is marked with a "remanufactured" sticker. I also pulled two front driveaxles from my parts car - a 1990 Loyale 4WD EA82 manual transmission. As I disassembled the "inner CV joints" of all the axles (also called "DOJ's" by the How To Keep Your Subaru Alive manual) I noticed something very strange - the inner race of the DOJ's on the axles I pulled from the 1990 EA82 have 32 splines! The DOJ cups are a bit bigger, too. As far as I understand, the axles for both of these vehicles should be 23-spline. Two questions: 1. Any ideas as to why/how those DOJ's are 32 splines? The original and only prior owner of that vehicle was an elderly person who didn't drive it much, so I doubt they did any sort of transmission conversion. 2. How would I modify my current EA82 (with 23-spline axles) to fit the 32-splines axles? (I'm asking more out of curiosity; I imagine this would be impractical to the point of silliness. Eager to solve the mystery! Jason

These forums have illuminated for me the importance of using OEM CV boots. Though, I am having difficulty finding these boots (and necessary clips and grease) for purchase. I'm looking for specific recommendations, and other tips you all think would assist in this search. For example, some listings on eBay are for just boots without the necessary clips and grease. Thanks!

Thanks Jono. I removed the cross member and that improved access, but only marginally. I attempted to get a wrench in there (socket and open-end) but neither can fit in that tight space. Without deeper dis-assembly, or a novel idea, it seems I won't be able to test or replace the switch. At least this faulty switch is merely an inconvenience.

Hi all, I have a 1991 Loyale with manual transmission, and I am attempting to remove the 4WD indicator light switch. This is my next step in diagnosing the problem of the dashboard indicator light not coming on when the vehicle is in 4WD. I have confirmed that the vehicle is properly engaging and disengaging from 4WD when pressing the pushbutton on the shifter. I believe I have located the 4WD indicator light switch on the top rear of the transmission. Due to the location, I can barely access the plastic connector, and I am having a bear of a time getting my fingers in any position to disconnect the connector. Also, I am not sure how I'll be able to access the switch itself. I have read posts that say this is a pain in the butt. It sure is - does anyone have tips? Thanks. - Jason

Hi all, My 1991 Loyale 5-speed 4WD station wagon was having some brake issues, including the "Brake Fluid" indicator light coming on and some pulsing when depressing the brake pedal. Since this car is new to me, I removed both rear brake drums to investigate the condition of the rear brakes. The driver's side needs replacement. The spring clips fell to the ground in pieces when I removed the drum; the shoes are glazed and gouged; there is visible brake fluid behind one of the wheel cylinder's rubber boots; and the drum's inner surface is very noticeably rounded. The passenger's side, on the other hand, all looks to be in good shape; it appears that the passenger's side was overhauled somewhat recently. I am under the impression that for brake jobs the repairs should be symmetrical; that is, any part I replace on the driver's side should also be replaced on the passenger's side. In my case, that would mean new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinder and a re-surfaced drum for both wheels, even though it appears the passenger's side is in good shape. I am looking for advice on how to proceed. Thank you!

Hi all, Thanks for the loads of responses and suggestions. For the sake of time, I brought the car to a mechanic, and as most of you suspected, it was simply an old, bad battery. I had checked the voltage, but not the amperage. I am surprised how many wonky symptoms arise from not enough power. Here's to the old adage that sometimes the answer is right under your nose! Thanks again, Jason

Hi there, My 1990 Loyale won't start, and it appears to be due to an electrical problem. Symptoms: Weak power to accessories when ignition is in "accessory" mode. Weaker power, and sometimes no power, when ignition is in "on" mode. Car does not start, and accessories lose power completely when ignition is in "start" mode. Testing: So far, I have done the following: checked battery voltage, checked battery connections, checked fuses, checked fusible links, tested six relays for switching and continuity (4 above the fuse box and 2 above the ECM), tested ignition switch for appropriate continuity at the different key positions, partially tested steering column switches for continuity (the diagram in the Haynes manual confuses me; nevertheless, I disconnected the steering column switches and the problem remains.) I have not noticed loose grounds or frayed wires, but perhaps I have missed some. There are a couple of interesting items to note. First, when I activate the switch for the hazard flashers, the lights do not operate and a buzzing sounds. I have disconnected the power to the flashers module, and this of course silences the buzzing sound, but the original electrical issue remains. Second, occasionally when I turn on the parking lights via the steering column switch, the needle on the tachometer jumps - this is all without the engine running! It's a mystery to me - hopefully someone out there can point me in the right direction. Thank you! Jason

Thanks for the info, Tom. For the hole in the wheel well, would you suggest using sheet metal as opposed to the fiberglass method?

Armed with a couple weeks off work, a digital camera, and renewed enthusiasm, I'm going to try to tackle this project. Here are photos of the problem areas... First, here's the car. I went to the local auto paint supply store to try to track down the actual color code, and their books listed "955 Bermuda Blue" as the only similar blue for 1990-1994 Subarus. I was looking for the "280 Ice Blue Met" as Tom mentioned, but it wasn't listed in their book. To anyone with more knowledge than me about these colors, I'm hoping the photo of my car might help confirm which color code is correct. Below are two photos of the fenders - one of the driver's side and one of the passenger's side. Both fenders have rusted out where the mudflaps hang on. Instead of trying to patch those up, it'll be easier for me to just replace them. I've managed to track down two used fenders that I'm going to paint and install. Below is a photo of a hole inside the driver's side rear wheel well. The picture makes it look worse than it is. My plan here is to block the hole with a fiberglass sheet and smother it with Tiger Hair. Should I use some rubberized undercoating on top of the Tiger Hair? Now on to the nasty stuff. The back end is rusted out pretty bad, with holes on both the driver's side and passenger's side going right up into the trunk area. My plan here is to rivet sheet metal where I can, and use Tiger Hair to seal it up. This is really where I could use advice. I should mention that I'm not trying to make the car look brand new. My immediate goal is to pass inspection this year, to give me more time to save up money for another car. My dream goal would be to fix this car up so I can drive her for many years to come, considering the engine only has 100,000 miles. Though not being a professional body repair guy, I don't know to what extent those holes in the back end can be fixed up. Thanks for any and all advice! Jason

Thanks for the responses guys. I've taken Shaun's advice and started a new thread over at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1113464. I'll see you guys over there!

Hello! I have a 1990 Loyale wagon, with a young engine (just passed 100,000 miles). I love the car, but like all the rest, she's rusting out pretty good and won't pass inspection. I'm not giving up on her though, and I've talked with some mechanics and body shop guys who have given me some tips on fixing her up. I've never done body work before, but the posts on the Safariwagon thread are making me really hopeful that I can keep this car for some years to come. The areas I'm going to try to fix are: both front fenders where the mudflaps are barely hanging on, one hole in the rear wheel well, and holes on the underside of the back end leading up into the trunk area. Here is the process I'm going to follow, and I'd love to get feedback and tips from the community here: 1. Remove the rust and loose metal from the affected areas. 2. Cut/bend sheet metal and attach it with rivets to rebuild/cover the holes. 3. Apply Tiger Hair fiberglass filler. 4. Prime and paint. I have already received some good tips, which have led to me to a couple of more questions... 1. My plan was to rivet sheet metal to rebuild the rust holes, and then apply fiberglass filler on top of the new sheet metal. Tom mentioned that fiberglass filler doesn't stick too well to smooth surfaces. Would it suffice to simply prime and paint over the sheet metal, as opposed to first applying fiberglass filler? 2. I am having a boondoggle of a time finding the color identification plate. It is not on my strut tower, nor can I find it near my hood latch. Perhaps it got removed in a repair in the 17 years the car existed before I got it. Any other tips for finding the right color match? Thanks for any information and help provided! - Jason