ferp420

it still sounds like its firing on the wrong stroke have you pulled the valve cover to check the valves to varify its on the compresion stroke

are you sure #1 plug on the dizy is realy were #1 plug should be maybe the fireing order is a hole off

is it posable the distributer is 180° out ive had issues like that on vws before

that would get tricky in the car you could do it but gravity wont help in the car take the engine out its easy enuff i used to change motors for my smog test the mongral had to come out and the stocker back in with stock exhaust then after the smog test back in with the monster and custom exhaust its kinda like doing a tune up its so easy

you can surface the block the same way you do the heads

those stains are head gasket residue the head probably isent flat or it would be more even check out this thread on diy head resurfacing cant hurt anything to give it a try ive had realy good luck doing this my self and not much different than how we did it in the shop in the olden days

use a left rear it will work fine lol there are some options if you want to build your own axles but stock ones are still easy to find check ebay the rear diffs are mostly interchangeable with minor modification usualy just need a stub shaft change or maybe the diff itself but the wheel side is were things start to change theres alot of thr3ads about axles and there interchangeabulity what fits what and the different rigs they go on

it dident take me 5 months but my ea82m was in and out more times than i can count when i was exsperamenting with home made copper headgaskets damb i miss that engine

are you sure its been a while since i did my head work i must be thinking v8 double springs but i still install my subaru springs by hand i have 3set of heads im working on now ej set one ford deisel set and one cheavy diesel set lol its been years since ive even looked at a ea82 head

i just push on the valve springs if i cant get my wait behind it then ill brace off my wrist against the frame rails also my loyale have a 4" crossmember drop so i have more room to work in if for some reason i run in to a stuburn spring ill use a box end wrench and wedge it between what ever i can usualy a rocker arm stud or bolt hole and put pressure on one side or the other and drop 1 keeper in at a time taking them out is as simple as placing a square kiss in just the right spot using a hammer and a socket ive been able to compress most single spring valve springs by hand i dont use tools unless its a double spring or high performance high rpm spring set

opps double post lol

do you know the history of the engine has.there been any major valve train work a valve thats been ground down to far would.sit higher in the seat its posable the hlas are at there max traval and they might be binding a bit but if i had to guess i would say you droped a valve seat maybe 2 if the engine got hot ever i would say thats the issue being that there is so much room between the head and the piston its vary posable for it to run like that and as the seat moves around your comprestion would change if it is a valve seat i only know 2 ways to fix it have a machine shop install a slightly larger seat vary exspensive or find a used head and freshen it up used heads are getting harder to find as we ea82 owners hoard our spare parts for the simple fact that there getting harder to find this is pretty much a dead platform from a new parts perspective there is always the ej option if you are realy atatched to the car if not pull the tailights headlights and turn signals and oil pump and make them available to others who are fighting the good fight with the ea82 and scrap the car

pull the spark plug stuff as much string in to the cylinder as posable ring the cylinder up as close to top dead center as posable ive compressed the springs by hand many times

the fuel injection system will give more power all the way through the powerband on a stock engine than any carb it has its limits but the heads are more limiting than your fuel system unless you have some kind of monster engine than the duel carbs will kill your performance and your drivabulity

duel carbs are so hard to tune i fought them on my vws for years webers dolardos and different carbs i had laying around everytime pulling them off and replacing with the single weber also there more of a high hp set up giveing you more top end while not doing much in the low end at ether end of the power band your still limited by the design of the heads so there isent alot to gain unless your porting the heads and instaling better exhaust you wont see much gain at all if you want any power from a ea82 you have to mod the entire engine from the block to the tail pipe i dont know of any one who has the magic formula for the ea82 i dought anyone has spent that much time with it i can say this dumping more fuel down the throught of your ea82 wont give you more power just wash the oil off the cylinders

i have lots of pieces to oem axles lol but at this point there basicly unobtainium any one who has them no dought nows what they have already and just wont let go of them unless they just sold the car and arent doing any more ea8* rigs anymore

i cant tell you how many brand new axles ive got that had no greese in them at all none they clicked out of the box in the store ive litteraly opened the box twisted them by hand and gave them back to the guy at the counter and told him send it back its junk im not installing that in my car even went round and round with upper managment as the bad axles there trying to give me were replacement for axles that failed the store refused to reorder saying this one is brand new then i peeled it open and it had no greese they ordered me a new axle your best bet if you cant find a good used oem axle is to buy some quality silicone boots and greese and reboot the new aftermarket axle before it goes in to the car it will last alot longer one of my first jobs was rebuilding cv axles for pepboys ive rebuild more than my share of axles

in my opinnion sjr would have a better understanding of the older rigs i seen post after post of his stuff on ea81s and ea82s with nothing but good sead about his suff and hes been on here for a long time posting builds and answering questions adf i feel is more ej oriented i personaly never did buisness with ether so i can only offer my opinion

this would be a perfict time to use intake manifold spacers

these cars are vary touchy about there ground wires i had one fall off while wheelin took me 4 hours to figure out 1 ground wire pulled out on these cars you cant have to many ground wires i would almost say every major component have 3 grounds one to body one to block one to battery small loads are fine through the body but dont rely on it for a ground source

from everything ive read 3" over stock is the max angle you can reliably run with ej axles what angle dose that make it out to be i dont know but 3 over stock is the best #s i can give ya

my front struts are for a 98-04 forester and ya they just bolted in im running 215-75-16s on my imp there somewere around 28.5 inches or so i had to cut alot of fender alot and still get some rubbing here and there i also have my wheels spaced out about a.inch with a heavy offset rim so the tires are pushed outside the fenders by about 1" making the rubbing worse but with out the heavy offset the tires will rub the spring purch i have about a 1/2" of clearance between the strut and the tire now also i had to move the rear wheels backwords to stay centered in the wheel wells and keep the back tire out of the rear doors and i also droped the rear control arms down 2" to keep suspention geomitry in line you can get the factory drop brackets off of the outback they should be good enuff since its a lego going to stock outback ride hight you dont realy need the drop brackets for the front if your just doing struts when i lifted our lego i went with new front struts and i added a 1/4 spacer on top of the struts and was at the far limits for the alignment the outback brackets will fix that so your closer to stock tolerances the rear got 2.5" lift and was out of specks and we couldent align it right and had to use aftermarket adjustable arms to get back in specks did i say i had to cut alot off the fenders to clear 28.5 tires and i mean alot theres just no way a big tire is gona fit that small opening i used 2" wide fender flairs to hide and cover the tires to stay street legal and it gives it that ralley car look instead of the i just cut the hay out of my fenders to stick these big tires on it look

you better take lots of fliping pictures or else or else what just or else ya

i had to make my own there about 2ft long and adjustable ill have to do some tuning though to much antisquat

you wont get much lift with the stock springs so get the forester or ouback springs also if you have a choice get the turbo version if you plan on offroading it while your getting the body spacers off the outback grab the steering coupler also the stock one will be to short once the subframe is droped but we need you to do us a favor we just gave you some information to the best of our knowladge but now we need.some thing from you we need before and after pics cause it dident happen without pictures dangnabit