ferp420
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Posts posted by ferp420
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the ea82 turbo has a tendency to crack the heads especially when you give it the beans and dont even try to add the turdbo to the na engine it will pop the first time you get in to the boost
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the ea82 stuff dose fit from what ive herd but they say its alot wider how much wider i dont know but wide enuff that you need the whole front end to make the swap
that could be a good thing though maybe some one who has done it will chime in
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i was hoping to use a ej clutch but it sounds like way to much work ill just make the stupid adaptor plate and drill the flywheel and run the ea duel range box and be happy about it lol thanks for packin the pipe on that dream lol
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On 9/26/2022 at 10:41 PM, el_freddo said:
It sounds to us like it’s the rear CV shaft that you’re removing that’s the issue. The torque locker will still rotate the prop shaft with one CV shaft removed, that’s how they operate.
Don’t go messing with the K frame lift blocks! Just drop the moustache bar if you want to experiment.
i agree it sounds like a cv axle try swaping axles
personally i would figure out a way to get the rear cvs in and out easily and weld up a stock diff i ran like that for years
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it wouldent be that hard to mod a standered shock to work as a strut you just need something to slip in the pocket that can be clamped down on to you can fab up a spring purch with out to much work
ford tempo springs and your in buisness
ive never actually installed the vw struts i just know they fit i asume you need the loyale top hats i could get some pics and mesurements if your interested in going that route
i have a loyale and a superbeetle sitting next to eachother
i do have tempo front springs on stock struts up front and 300zx struts on the rear of the loyale with stock springs right now
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superbeetle front struts work on the front of the ea82 they might be easyer to find there not as strong though
you can use ford tempo springs on the stock ea82 strut if you just want stiffer or some spring lift if you dont want to lift it and just have stiffer spring cut a coil off
ive used nissan 300zx front struts on the rear of my loyale and they not ony have more traval but a larger shaft so there alot stonger than ones made for the ea82
i want to say there the same ride hight as the stock fwd rear struts but im not 100% sure
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any spring for a turdbo will be stiffer than its non turdbo version
personally i would go with forester xt springs for the same year
and then maybe a saggy butt 1/4" spacer for a little more
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how much compitabulityis there between ea and ej transmissions
or what i really want to know if i can use the transfer gears and low range from the ea on a ej i wont need to shift in or out of low and i dont really need 2wd ether so i would be ok with it locked in 4wd and low range
what whould be needed to do that i know i can buy a ej duel range trans case and use ea82 guts but there not exsacly easy to find ether
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the lego springs dont give any lift at all the outback strut has more traval than the lego strut and the spring is bigger
the outback spring on a lego strut will be close to full exstension of the strut a lego spring on a outback strut will be at the bottom of the struts traval you would.bottom out alot like that
the best lift was outback struts with forester springs but the differance was maybe a 1/2 " at most not worth the extra work or exspence
the outback struts give the lego about 1 1/2" of lift a bit more on the impreza but not a true 2" lift
note our 03 lego with 2" lift left the rear alignment out of specks we had to buy white racing adjustable rear links to keep the rear from eating tires not a big deal you could also use the drop brackets from the outback to keep the rear alignment in specks
xt springs are stiffer than standerd outback springs and the 6 cylinder springs should be stiffer than those
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On 8/10/2022 at 7:33 AM, idosubaru said:
My "autocorrect" comment was a joke trying to make fun of these asinine changes Subaru made. the codes very well may have went away, I don't know enough about it to guess if it could have been the nonfoulers. I've got some nonfoulers laying around and my 06 tribeca has P0420 but after all these years and 250,000 miles I don't think I want to touch the sensors....
that po420 code was part of the reason we bought a hyunday
2000 is the newest i have now unless you count the entire drivetrain out of the 06 outback xt
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1 hour ago, idosubaru said:
Autocorrect changed your message, you must have typed "imbecile" or "annoying", because it is. 2005+ leg/OB is also when you can no longer swap an engine/trans due to CANBUS.
well i could sware that the 06 outside had a defouler on both 02 sensors and it eliminated the po420 code but like you sead auto correct might have gotten me
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On 8/8/2022 at 12:32 PM, idosubaru said:
That doesn’t work on 2005+ legacy and outback’s due to changes in the ECU.
interesting
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that po420 your car is stoned code sucks
ive been fighting it for 20 years on varios subarus i use a spark plug defouler inline with my 02 sensor i got mine at oreallys
fixed it everytime i do need to remove it before smog though or it wont pass visual inspection
it still pops up every now and again and goes away it always comes on after a long down hill run coming out of the mountains to sea leval then a few day at a stable elivation the light goes off the car still has the original cats on it there over 20 years old and still working fine
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if you cant do the head gaskets your self then i would find out how much there gona cost to have done
thkse 2.5 single overhead cam engines like to drop there beadgaskets at around 150-200k so you most likely wont need to do them again
we payed 3000 to have our head gaskets done at a shop on our 2003
if your payin 3k for gaskets and 2k for the car it dosent look like such a good deal but with the price of used cars today that might be good i dont know
for what its worth i just did the head gaskets on my 2000 imp it had 290k on it when they failed they were real easy to do at home and even surfacing them went smooth alot of labor though it took days of sanding to get the heads flat again but thats the way it goes lol
heres the start of the surfacing
before and after sorry its kinda blurry
i glues a peice of sand paper to a granite slab and went to town
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check your carier bearing that would be affected by heat and load it could be torn half way through but still wouldent be obviose at a glance and its the lowest point of the drive train vary easy to snag or smack it on something
a simple push pull test should tell you if theres a problem down there pretty quick if it moves more than a 1/4 of a inch in any direction thats probably the problem
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10 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:
If you keep trying to crank it with the loose ground, it will burn up the transistor.
i have a ground wire conected to it so i never had that problem ill have to take your word for it
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22 minutes ago, Ionstorm66 said:
The #1 failure I see with no spark is the coil bracket having bad ground, which keeps the ignition transistor from working.
i wouldent consider that a failure but yes these cars seem to have horable grounds ive never seen a car so sensitive but ya any loose ground reeks havoc on the system
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On 7/21/2022 at 5:19 AM, azdave said:
It cannot be done with what you have. Old points-type distributors were able to directly trigger an ignition coil because each time the points opened they interrupted the charging of the coil which caused the field in the coil windings to collapse and generate the back-EMF spark. Our electronic distributor is only outputting a tiny trigger pulse. It is not directly interrupting power that feeds the coil. There must be a device (or two) in-between the distributor and the coil to complete our ignition system. There are plenty of instances in other applications where pointless distributors can seemingly directly fire a coil but those actually have further electronics built into them so the trigger pulse can fire the coil. I have several 1965 Corvairs that are converted from points to electronic ignition using an aftermarket module that mounts inside the distributor and those work well because the distributor also contains centrifugal and vacuum advance parts to handle required timing changes while driving.
Here is a thread from 2020 that is related.
yes you can pulse the spark on the distributor manualy if you just want to test to se if you have spark just disconect the power or maybe its the negative lead ether way one will triger the spark discharge
the ignition system on the loyal isent much different than a vw after installing the electronic ignition modual the fuel injection and the ignition dont have alot to do with each other
if you dont have spark its usualy ether the coil mostly the coil or the electronic pick up inside the dizzy
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i second the ground wires these cars are so sensitive about there ground wires
every ground needs to be good and have a clean conection
the body needs to be grounded to the engine and the transmission and to the battery directly also the motor needs to be grounded to.the body and the transmission and the battery
the battery needs to be grounded to.the engine the body the battery your left foot and atleast one pubic hair or the car wont run
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i reboot and regrease my new aftermarket axles too it doubles the cost of the replacement axle but it doubles the life of the axle also
the last axle i bought they forgot to install the clip inside the boot to keep the cage inside the cup so i went to install.it and the damb thing litterally fell apart in my hands
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there definitly differnt style of joints
the one with the cutouts use 3 roller bearings inside
the other with no cut outs uses balls and cage inside the joint
honestly it looks like a custom axle rear diff to front hub to me but i have seen differnt styles of joints used with ea82 axles also extremely differnt shaft sizes and joint sizes theres even a telescoping axle for the front of the ea82s lol
from what it sounds like from what the op sead they will both work you can install it then check for binding while the strut is disconected if your worried about it
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i think all ea82 radiators have those ports if you can even find one for a ea82 at all
it dosent make sense to manufacture a 2 different radiators for 1 vehicle especially one thats a rare 80 modle disposable econo box
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i wonder if anyone has tryed ceracoating the pistons and exhaust ports to help with the extra heat
there caracoating diesel pistons to stop piston melt down on n/a diesels with big turdbos like mine lol
i know it wont help with the ringlands but might help stop the head from cracking
maybe lol
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On 6/15/2022 at 11:26 PM, Steptoe's photos said:Well, I see it differently
If you set the cam and crank cogs up on a theoretical engine as a boxer and measured say 300mm from two points, one of crank, one of cam, then shave a mm off
Your belt is a fixed dimension in new state, so when all is buttoned up after the shave, the EA82 dizzy side cam is going to be turned about one mm clockwise off perfect cam to crank timing and the turbo side head once shaved is going back one mm anti clockwise, altering your degreeing of the cams different to each other !
I used to work with a very clever engine builder a long time ago, and got much lectures and instruction on these sort of things. A straight engine would be adjustable to compensate but not a flat boxer. So much difference you really won't notice a thing
i do agree with you but the belt isent a stright line it has atleast 1 90 in it wich will eat up most of the slop minimizing that effect to almost nothing and like you sead a degree or 2 wont effect the performance of a ea82 enuff to be noticable and with the huge power gained way outways the performance lost is there more on the table yes ask ram engins they used to make one hell of a ea82 and reliable too
ram has a full machine shop they make there own parts they have engineers i use hand tools and best guesses and my parts arent neer the quality of theres but i did steel some of there ideas like the intake spacers trying to build a ea82 is like polishing a turd even when shinny its still a turd but if you enjoy building engines theres a fun platform to play with cause subaru left so much on the table it gives us something to play with
1988 Subaru gl how to lift
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
lifting it should be pretty easy
but you do have to know how to build a lift kit
then you need to find the right angle to correct your alignment for your rig and the amount of lift you want usually between 15°and 20° if your alittle off it's not the end of the world
I'm sure there's still guys around selling lift kits
maybe contact sjr on here maybe he's still doing them
i built my own 5-3 kit about 15 years ago
Im still running the napkin lift on the rear of my Impreza it's still not a bad way to go on a budget