nate99legacy2.2

I want to save my nice al rims during the winter by putting on cheap wheels and snow tires during winter. BUT i want to go bigger! These skate board wheels cant cut it anyore. Can i fit 16in X 6.5 in forester rims under my 99 legacy sedan. or should i go out and buy a bit bigger cheap Am racing rims. I ve got tons of room and want to put some tall snow cutters under these fenders. any suggestions.

I was getting a check engine soon light popping on and off for awhile with no ill effect noticeable. finally the engine started the hesitation/dogging thing upon acceleration but was fine when i punched it. So i took it in to the mechanic and for $60 he pluged the ODB in and told me it was a engine knock sensor. Changed it for $81 and now its fine. has the check engine light come on at all? the computer stores the codes and its better to spend the cash on the diagnosis rather than an o2 sensos, tps, fuel filter,etc etc youll go poor trying to get it right.

This is not a common problem with subarus to have rotors warp twice within 30k miles. I have a 99Legacy with stock brakes and no warp problems. But a forester is a heavy body on the Imprezia platform. I dont know if the brakes are bigger than imprezias to compensate for this? I have several suggestions. Just my $.02 1. Downshift when slowing down and use the engine to slow the car this can work on manual and Auto. (DONT DROP IT INTO FIRST DOING 65, JUST DOWN ONE GEAR WHEN YOU REACH ABOUT 45) ALSO IN TOWN USE 3rd (AUTOMATIC) Gear. 2. Dont hold your foot on the brake the entire time you are stopping - gently pulse the brakes a few times as you stop. 3. Get NEW rotors and brake pads put on. THE OLD ONES MAY JUST BE BAD. (resurfacing or turning is a wast if you ask me GET NEW) 4. GO TO A DIFFERENT SHOP - Those guys are taking you to the bank. They can turn the rotors just enough to make it smooth but They DIDNT TURN THE ROTORS ENOUGH to prevent it from coming back. My rule is that MOST Rotors should only be able to take one good resurfacing to be safe. Even if its within tolerances can reduce the pedal pressure as the pads wear. Making you have to push the pedal further to engage the brakes. NOT GOOD IN EMERGENCY STOPPING SITUATIONS. 4.Make sure they lube the caliper sliders so they can move back and forth around the rotor. IF the caliper cant slide back and forth the pads can rub and heat the rotors- THUS warpage.

I did tap the gear using a m7 (so i didnt have to drill). luckily i had two m7 bolts just the right size from my honda motorcycle that worked great and i got it off. YEAH everyone is right - IT was one of those black oil seals and it had no spring on the back. I replaced it no problem - used a pvc pipe fitting to seat it. YEAH NO MORE OIL LEAK:banana: !!!!!!!!!

As you know it could be several areas Main Crank seal (thats where mine leaks), Cam seals, or from loose oil pump screws or valve cover. have you had your tbelt changed already? (servuce interval 60K miles on the 2.2L, >100K miles or there abouts for the 2.5L{i dont have 2.5 so i dont know fur sure the mi SORRY}) If yes then youve got a ways to go untill you have someone get back inside that area to find out what is going on. If you havent changed your Timing belts then your in luck, I would suggest having the dealer do it and at the same time find and fix the leak. This will save money because they already have the thing apart. Im gonna guess two possible places. the Left cam shaft seal (a bit of oil on t belt cover on the upper Right side of the picture above the hoses. You can check to see by removing the 3 bolts and pulling off the cover and looking behind the cam pulley for oil or look for oil on the inside of the cover when its removed) OR it could be coming from around the water pump? it appears that the concentration of oil is around the water pump but i have not seen any posts about oil leaks there. Nice pic

Thanks all for the help, I must have missed the threads and checked the wrong holes when i was in there last. The gear has 4 round holes and 4 oblong holes and I swear they dont have threads. I stuck a pick down the holes and didnt feel any threads, thats why i asked this question. But Im not going chance blowing the 60bucks i spent on a new tbelt. Im gonna open it up agian and check it out this holiday weekend and make a homemade puller if all goes well and i missed the threads. Ill post an update when i find out thanks again.

I would have used a puller if the holes in the gear had threads. Did i miss them. PS the 1999 2.2l i have is different and its not the same as all of the t belt replacement tech resources descriptions onlien. For example I have a one bolt tensioner and distributorless ignition (gear marks on back of gear) thats why i cant use a normal puller behind the gear. Ill check again in case i missed it but i dont think i have threads in the gear, did you use a puller on what year?

Hey all Thanks for all the info on a 2.2L timing belt replacement. I had 70K miles and replaced the t belt with no problems, (FYI used the old V belt to hold the pulley, I anchored it over the alternator bracket and pinched it with some channel locks and it worked like a charm). The old belt was toast anyway and a new one is 10bucks ANYWAY. I too have the infamous oil leak- and it looked like the front seal was the culprit when i was in there. I had the old belt off but i couldnt get the timing belt crankshaft gear off. I used heat and a bit of prying but i didnt want to damage the old seal, soft al or mess up the gear if i couldnt get it off. Does subaru make a special crank gear puller? A normal gear puller wont fit behind it. HOW DO I GET THE CRANK TIMING GEAROFF without screwing it up in the process. I checked and the oil leak and its getting worse every day so i need some help soon so i can get the seal replaced before it ruins my new belt. THANKS