Jump to content

Dee2

Members
  • Content count

    860
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Dee2 last won the day on August 30

Dee2 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

115 Excellent

About Dee2

  • Rank
    USMB Regular

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    US
  • Occupation
    none
  • Vehicles
    1990 Loyale

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Many years ago I had a similar problem with the belts. I have the outboard AC. I modified the length of the slot in the bracket to get some additional tension adjustment.
  2. I forgot about adding a starter/ignition relay as mentioned by Ionstorm66. I had starting problems on my car some years ago and added a relay which fixed my problem. The kit I used was a Bosch WR1 Starter Relay, It came with directions and wiring schematic. Also, If your starter is sluggish, sometimes it is necessary to replace the solenoid contacts. Very easy to do, Videos are available on youtube.
  3. From your description it sounds like the problem is in the wiring. I can only suggest following the wires from the ignition to the fuse panel and check for any frayed/worn areas. Make sure no wire is contacting sharp metal edges etc. If the fuse is the wrong size then that should be corrected also. As a fall back, you could put in a starter button. Many have done that when they had faulty ignitions.
  4. Does this engine setup have a mass air flow (MAF) sensor on it ? If so, disconnect it and see if the engine runs better or worse. If it has a MAF that is malfunctioning, it could be calling for too much fuel. If it doesn't have a MAF...never mind.
  5. Don't forget to change all the filters too. Check all the hoses and accessory belts.
  6. Dee2

    My Brat

    Nice!! Looks to be in great condition.
  7. Check for any codes first. Then check basics: -good spark ? all plugs clean and sharp ? plug wires good ? -distributor in good condition ? -good fuel pressure? -good condition of filters air/fuel ? -check engine with vacuum gauge, I use point on engine where brake booster line connects -good compression ? If no codes and no problem with basics then start checking sensors.
  8. If you have a vacuum gauge it can tell you a lot about a poor performing engine. Only takes about 5 minutes to get the reading. I usually just use the point on the engine where the brake booster line connects. Make sure the plugs are clean and sharp and all the plug wires are securely connected. Other things to check are timing because of the backfiring. Check the fuel pressure.
  9. my chilton manual says white wire is the signal wire - I presume it goes straight back to computer.
  10. Maybe cut off the cracked end and stretch it out a bit ?
  11. Dee2

    Info on the EA82 SPFI

    http://www.jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Books--/
  12. Hopefully you have a 30 day return option. You can leave it unplugged for now and chase down whatever. You may find other problems. These are old cars. PS: Did you ever check for any codes ?
  13. Seems like you've diagnosed the problem. You can run the engine with the MAF unplugged. That apparently eliminates the other variables. Was that a remanufactured one or a salvage? OEM or aftermarket? I've been down that path on my truck where I had to replace a bad MAF, got a remanufactured one only to find it was also bad. Long story short, I had to get a third one which finally solved my problem.
  14. If unplugging the new MAF also allows the engine to return to normal then I would suspect the MAF wiring harness.
×