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Dee2

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Dee2 last won the day on January 21 2017

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About Dee2

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    1990 Loyale

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  1. The thing is, once you start taking things apart its silly to only replace one seal. Might as well do all the front seals including the oil pump. Depending on the engine mileage and the last time it was resealed, you may want to remove the engine and reseal the whole thing. It's much easier to do out of the vehicle than in. And you won't have to come back and take everything apart again for the next small leak. If one is leaking the rest are not far behind......
  2. i would raise the back of the vehicle and lightly apply the brake. Spin the wheel and listen for noise, if present, then remove the wheel and drum for inspection.
  3. Dee2

    Changing front brakes

    If the piston face has notches, then the pistons must be spun into the caliper. If you try to compress them with a clamp or other device you can damage them. A special tool is made that can be helpful. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/brake-tool/oem-rear-disc-brake-cube-for-use-with-3-8-in-drive-tool/2363_0_0 The notches must be aligned perpendicular to the caliper when in final position.
  4. I would take it to a shop and see if they can offer a recommendation and an estimate for repairs. Then you can decide which is the most acceptable option for your budget and comfort level.
  5. Put a straight edge on the mating surfaces to see how big a problem you are dealing with or bolt them together without a gasket and measure the gap.
  6. if noise persists, do an oil flush. Then try refilling with a mix of 3 quart of oil and a quart of automatic transmission fluid. Run that for few hundred miles and see if the noise goes away. Mine did.
  7. Try some simple things first like checking the plugs - clean them, sharpen and regap - check the air filter. Then run some tests for compression and vacuum to learn if there are any real engine problems that need to be addressed.
  8. A lot of your description sounds like the symptoms of a failing fuel pump. I had the same symptoms when mine was failing. If it has trouble starting next time you try, rap on the fuel pump a few times with something like a screwdriver handle, may take more than one attempt. If it gets you going, then that points to a failing fuel pump.
  9. I wonder how many people have been screwed over by that little typo ...... clearly the reference should be as you stated, for the oil pump drive sprocket.
  10. I checked my Chilton and "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" manuals and neither had a torque specification for the 1.8 or 2.2 liter oil pump mounting bolts. The "HTKYSA" manual just said make them "good and snug". Chilton's manual for the 2.7 and 3.3 liter engine says 4-5 ft-lbs. If I recall when I did mine I used the 4-5 ft-lbs setting.
  11. It could be your torque wrench is off. I know when I use my small 1/4 in torque wrench it is not always trustworthy. If it feels too tight, it might be. Try to verify your torque wrench.
  12. Dee2

    No power to ignition

    Also check your fusible links.
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