Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Dee2 last won the day on January 21 2017

Dee2 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

81 Excellent

About Dee2

  • Rank
    USMB Regular

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
  • Occupation
  • Vehicles
    1990 Loyale

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Is the rotor turning when you crank the engine ?
  2. Dee2

    Head Gaskets.

    I would definitely recommend doing the simple things first. Pulling the engine essentially means a complete reseal is in order. Along with several other things while the engine is out.
  3. Dee2


    Do you have a picture of what you are referring to ?
  4. Dee2

    Fogging Windshield

    I just had this problem a while back and found that a vacuum line had come loose in the engine compartment. The line is in front of the passenger area under the hood. Check around to make sure the lines are all connected.
  5. Could be an intermittent fuel problem. When the fuel pump starts to go out they run intermittently. You can crank all day and it won't start. Next time you try it'll turn over. When the problem happens again, try rapping on the pump with a screwdriver handle. If it gets you going you found the problem. May take more than one try.
  6. The thing is, once you start taking things apart its silly to only replace one seal. Might as well do all the front seals including the oil pump. Depending on the engine mileage and the last time it was resealed, you may want to remove the engine and reseal the whole thing. It's much easier to do out of the vehicle than in. And you won't have to come back and take everything apart again for the next small leak. If one is leaking the rest are not far behind......
  7. i would raise the back of the vehicle and lightly apply the brake. Spin the wheel and listen for noise, if present, then remove the wheel and drum for inspection.
  8. Dee2

    Changing front brakes

    If the piston face has notches, then the pistons must be spun into the caliper. If you try to compress them with a clamp or other device you can damage them. A special tool is made that can be helpful. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/brake-tool/oem-rear-disc-brake-cube-for-use-with-3-8-in-drive-tool/2363_0_0 The notches must be aligned perpendicular to the caliper when in final position.
  9. I would take it to a shop and see if they can offer a recommendation and an estimate for repairs. Then you can decide which is the most acceptable option for your budget and comfort level.
  10. Put a straight edge on the mating surfaces to see how big a problem you are dealing with or bolt them together without a gasket and measure the gap.
  11. if noise persists, do an oil flush. Then try refilling with a mix of 3 quart of oil and a quart of automatic transmission fluid. Run that for few hundred miles and see if the noise goes away. Mine did.
  12. Try some simple things first like checking the plugs - clean them, sharpen and regap - check the air filter. Then run some tests for compression and vacuum to learn if there are any real engine problems that need to be addressed.
  13. A lot of your description sounds like the symptoms of a failing fuel pump. I had the same symptoms when mine was failing. If it has trouble starting next time you try, rap on the fuel pump a few times with something like a screwdriver handle, may take more than one attempt. If it gets you going, then that points to a failing fuel pump.
  14. I wonder how many people have been screwed over by that little typo ...... clearly the reference should be as you stated, for the oil pump drive sprocket.