Dee2

If your Loyale has a gauge then you need the unit shown in the top picture. The unit for the light will not work correctly. Once you have the correct unit installed, then you will need to manually adjust the needle to zero it out. Zeroing out the gauge does require getting access to the instrument cluster. Not all that difficult. After it has been zeroed out it will likely still continue to read pressure slightly lower than actual, but at least it will be reading a positive value. This has been my experience and I have read the same from others.

On my 1990 Loyale the exact issue was resolved by replacing the solenoid contacts in the starter. This is a common issue for older models and has been easily resolved by pulling the starter and replacing the contacts. parts cost about $20 from the dealer. related videos:

Just google your title and you can find videos and how-to instructions with photos for brake drum replacement. Autozone also has many step-by-step help files which are model specific at their website. here's a generic video which may be helpful too. http://www.ericthecarguy.com/videos/7-videos/5-brake-videos?videoid=MCpCkun2qxA#youtubegallery And of course there is the USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129319

You are correct on the caliper and bracket. On mine, the rotor just slides off the splined axle. It might be stuck and need a little persuasion. I use a 3-jaw puller and it only takes a little movement to free it up. Some use a mallet to knock it loose. I am trying to learn to how get things done with minimal use of a hammer.

Sounds like you've done some similar work before, so skills may not be the obstacle. I would say it depends on if you have time to let the vehicle stand unused if you get stuck. When I take on new frontiers I usually do so only if I don't need the vehicle for a while in case I get stuck then I know I have the time to find answers and muddle my way though . If the vehicle is essential then time is not on your side and paying to get it done may be the right choice.

Very impressive !

With the enormous help from this group I have brought my badly ignored 205k, '90 Loyale sedan back into working condition. --repaired the dead dash clock back to working condition --repaired the static filled radio to clear sound --got rid of the vibration in the blower fan --replaced the oil pressure sending unit --zero adjusted the oil pressure gauge --replaced some burned out dash lights --replaced the starter solenoid contacts --replaced the two rear struts --replaced the all 4 front wheel bearings/seals --replaced the left front axle --rebooted the right front axle --changed the brake fluid and bled all 4 wheels --changed the differential fluid --changed transmission fluid --changed the oil --washed/waxed body, and cleaned the interior, engine and trunk compartments --replaced rubber grommets on inside vent louvers --degreased the engine. thanks to all who have helped ! Just a couple more things to do: --recharge the AC --track down/repair some oil leaks

Don't think it is the speedo cable. The noise only began with the replacement of the new bearings and axle. I checked the washers and axle nut, all seemed ok, and I'm reluctant to think it is the new parts. Some progress though, when reassembling I opted to go beyond the 145 torque setting and went to the next notch after 145 for the cotter pin and then 1 more notch after that. Not sure what torque that gives me because I used my breaker bar to get there. seems to have helped. All noise is not yet gone, but I don't get the high pitched squeek, more of a dull rhythmic noise now. I will have to drive it some more to see if it improves or gets worse.

Where is this "USRM" I keep seeing referenced?

Really enjoyed reading this thread. Nicely documented. Thanks for making the extra effort to keep us appraised of the whole job and including the photos. It looks great! I had the same problem with my oil pressure gauge and solved it the same as you did. Unfortunately, I have noticed that with mine, now, the readings always seem to be a bit low. Still, it is better than the negative readings I was getting.

Was the source of this squeak ever found ? What was the solution ? I have the same problem as the original poster, replaced the left front bearings,seals and axle and got the new squeeking noise. I have tried everything I can think of and still have the same persistent noise, (squeek, squeek, squeek). It's definitely rotational. I have tried: --checking the bearings that they are fully seated --replacing the inner seal --adding grease to the bearings --double checking the axle nut --switched the front and rear wheels --checked the brake components I would really like to know if the others were able to solve their problem . thanks for any help

I also called Oreilly's and they also said "DOT 3 is DOT 3" . So, I used it. Cleaned out the reservoir, put in new, bled all 4 wheels. Don't know why they put the extra declarations on the bottle. I will keep it closed, but in fact I will unlikely use the remainder for a very long time. Thanks for the feedback !

Yes, a brand new bottle of Oreilly's (Very light amber color).

90 loyale FWD auto. sedan I opened the bottle of brake fluid I bought and it was amber in color instead of the clear I was expecting. In looking closer at the bottle I found that the label said it was "DOT 3 for ABS disc and drum brakes". Since I don't have ABS, is this going to be a problem ? Or do I need to get another bottle of brake fluid ?

Ugh! Had to pull the axel twice. After the first time I was getting an annoying chirping noise and traced it down to the inner seal which apparently wasn't fully seated. I had tried to use the shortcut method of installing bearings and seals while the knuckle was still on the car and I unfortunately didn't do a very good job. It's hard to install these inner parts while laying upside down under the wheel well. I've replaced the seal again and hope it's in good and solid this time.

Glad to know my suspicions were correct. This axle was under a NAPA wraranty so I am going to be their friend for a while

I finally got back to this project. Got the axle out and it was definitely the problem. The DOJ was no good. I took it back to NAPA and got my free replacement. Unfortunately, when taking out the old axle, the inside bearing and seal came out with it and I couldn't get them off the axle. I decided to just replace them too. In looking at the replacement when I got home, I found the DOJ was really stiff and difficult to rotate. I also noticed there is no axial movement in the joint. I hope this is only because this is new and perhaps the grease has settled. Anyone know if this is common to find the joints so stiff on new axles ?

90 Loyale AT FWD sedan I'm trying to figure out if the front-end noise I'm getting is from the bearings or the axle. I believe it is coming from the driver's (left) side. I recently replaced bearings and outer boot on the right side so I'm confident that side is ok. There's no play in the left wheel. I checked the torque on the axle nut and it is ok. The left side NAPA axle was new, 5000 miles ago. I remember there was some of the same noise right after the install but the shop that installed it thought it might be the bearings, perhaps damaged by the old bad axle, and to drive it a while to see if the noise could be better isolated/defined. The noise seems louder but I want to determine for myself, if I can, which is the culprit, bearings or axle. The axle has a lifetime warranty, so I might just pull it myself and take it back with the shop receipt. If I can avoid having to argue for a warranty replacement, that would be nice and I will just replace the bearings. I'd also rather not have to pull the axle out twice if I can avoid it, once for the bearings and again for the axle if the noise isn't resolved. Any suggestions/tips for isolating noise source ?

You have been very lucky. Rapping the fuel pump with something can bring them back to life, but almost always it is a temporary fix.

'90 Loyale sedan FWD While trying to isolate a noise source from the front end, I noticed the front brake discs have some light surface rust on them as if there is no contact from the pads. The pads are probably around 60-70% so they are good. Last time the brakes were done, couple of years ago, the back brake pads were gone and the front were still at 70%. I suspect the calipers aren't doing their job. The car seems to brake ok, not fantastic, but ok. What is best way to test just the calipers ?

Well it's all done. New bearings, seals and an outer axle boot. Most of the front end noise is gone and the play in the wheel is gone . I presume remaining noise is coming from the other front wheel but it is not enough to worry about yet. Reassembly went much faster than disassembly. The strut (which I had so much trouble getting apart) went back in easily by placing a floor jack under the knuckle and lifting up while guiding the strut stub. I used the washer/spacer technique for pulling the axle through and that worked very well. Hammer /screwdriver suggestions didn't work at all for me. Other problems I had to resolve along the way included: -- questions on seal installation, covered in a sidebar thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=135413 -- banding on the boot replacement. The bands included in the kit required a special tool which I bought. Tried to use it and it just tore the buckles right off the bands. I returned the tool and bought some universal bands from Autozone for $3. No special tools required and they worked. Extra costs incurred for the project were: -- replacement bands = $3, -- 36mm socket =$17 -- gas for extra trips to the parts store= $20 -- big washers/spacer for axle pull =$5 With the original $36 for parts the total project cost out of pocket was $81

After some research and dealings with the auto parts store I think I have this figured out. There are two type of seals, this is where I was getting confused. Apparently, some where in time, the vendors started substituting single type seals for double type seals. So when you ask for an inner and outer seal you may get one double and one single, as I did, instead of 2 double type seals which is what was expected to match the original equipment (OE). The OE seals, are the double seals, meaning they have a protruding lip on one side and the other side is flat and should look similar to this: These are installed with the flat side flush to the bearing so the lip is facing out. The single type of seals which have no lip and, typically, an exposed retainer spring on one side and the other side is flat and should look like this: These are installed with the flat side away from the bearing (spring side towards the bearing) and the flat face is flush to the housing. The double type seals are still around but you have to specify you want them and may require some lead time to get them into the store. These are definitely the better seals. If you already use sealed bearings, you may be just fine using the single type seals. Expanded use of sealed bearings may be the reason vendors are moving away from the double type seals. This is my best understanding and hope it helps. Another discussion on this was found here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108400

Ceramics are excellent pads. I use them on my truck and they do a great job. Unless your hammering your brakes all the time I wouldn't worry about excessive disc wear.

'90 Loyale Sedan FWD Normally seals can only be installed one direction and to a controlled depth because of a flange on the seal. The wheel bearing seals I got can go on in either direction and the depth is not controlled by any flange. I didn't make note of the old ones when I took them off. Can anyone tell me the direction and depth of the seals when installed ? Inner Seal =========== The inner seal has an extended lip. I assume this goes toward the engine/axle joint ? Outer seal ========== The outer seal has an exposed retainer spring, I assume this faces toward the bearing ? For depth, do these go in until flush with the bearing or just until the top edge is flush with the housing of the knuckle ? thanks

Decided to just replace the outer boot instead of the whole axle. Got the axle out - no problems there. I went shopping for the 2 bearings, 2 seals and a new outer boot and found a good set of prices at Costless Auto, about $36.00 I got the bearings in, went with the open style because they had a good price. Removed the old boot, cleaned out the joint and got the new boot on, just need to find a way to tighten the bands.