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Dee2

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Posts posted by Dee2

  1. I forgot about adding a starter/ignition relay as mentioned by Ionstorm66.  I had starting problems on my car some years ago and added a relay which fixed my problem.  The kit I used was a Bosch WR1 Starter Relay, It came with directions and wiring schematic. 

    Also, If your starter is sluggish, sometimes it is necessary to replace the solenoid contacts.  Very easy to do,  Videos are available on youtube.

  2. From your description it sounds like the problem is in the wiring.  I can only suggest following the wires from the ignition to the fuse panel and check for any frayed/worn areas.  Make sure no wire is contacting sharp metal edges etc.

    If the fuse is the wrong size then that should be corrected also.

    As a fall back, you could put in a starter button.  Many have done that when they had faulty ignitions.

  3. Check for any codes first.  Then check basics:

    -good spark ?  all plugs clean and sharp ? plug wires good ?

    -distributor in good condition ?

    -good fuel pressure?

    -good condition of filters air/fuel ?

    -check engine with vacuum gauge, I use point on engine where brake booster line connects

    -good compression ?

    If no codes and no problem with basics then start checking sensors.

     

     

  4. If you have  a vacuum gauge it can tell you a lot about a poor performing engine.  Only takes about 5 minutes to get the reading.  I usually just use the point on the engine where the brake booster line connects.

    Make sure the plugs are clean and sharp and all the plug wires are securely connected.

    Other things to check are timing because of the backfiring. 

    Check the fuel pressure.

  5. 1 hour ago, Phil Hyde said:

    Well... This one is a used OEM from eBay.  Sold as "functional".  So I am not sure I proved anything.  Either I have two bad ones... or it's not the problem.  Leaning toward the latter.

    Hopefully you have a 30 day return option. 

    You can leave it unplugged for now and chase down whatever.  You may find other problems.  These are old cars.

     

    PS: Did you ever check for any codes ?

  6. 49 minutes ago, Phil Hyde said:

    I am aware of the troubleshooting that needs to occur and I do appreciate the suggestions.   I had already purchased a (used) MAF and there was certainly no harm in checking to see if it fixed anything.  I honestly didn't expect it to.

    Seems like you've diagnosed the problem.  You can run the engine with the MAF unplugged.  That apparently eliminates the other variables. 

    Was that a remanufactured one or a salvage?  OEM or aftermarket?

    I've been down that path on my truck where I had to replace a bad MAF, got a remanufactured one only to find it was also bad. Long story short, I had to get a third one which finally solved my problem.

    • Like 1
  7. 52 minutes ago, Phil Hyde said:

    I have one on order.

    The funny thing about the unplugged MAF behavior is that you'd think running in this manner would rule out a fuel pressure issue.

    It does. 

    Unplug the MAF.  The computer will default to preset air/fuel settings.  The engine should run normally.    This should allow for verifying that the fuel pressure is not a problem.

    This is only a temporary solution as the computer won't make any adjustments for varying conditions.  So eventually, you will need a working MAF.

  8. On 8/13/2021 at 10:48 AM, Phil Hyde said:

    UPDATE: I unplugged the MAF sensor and the car started right up.  Maintains a ~2K idle and does not die.

     

    23 hours ago, Phil Hyde said:

    A Starting the engine produces the same result as before.  Idles up somewhere around 2K then dies.  Feathering the throttle will keep it running. ..... Am I missing something?

    Earlier you said that unplugging the MAF kept the engine running .  Have you replaced the MAF ?

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