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vtscooby

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About vtscooby

  • Birthday 01/02/1966

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  • Location
    Vermont - USA
  • Referral
    Internet
  • Biography
    Interested in Subaru GL ~ GL-10 ~ Loyale Information
  • Vehicles
    94 Loyale - MT - 4WD

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  1. The Brown "Ignition Relay" above the ECM -- it is in the same circuit as that - All just below the steering column in the Loyales - it has [RL & GW] connecting wires... & is just up the wiring harness about 8 or 10 inches from the "Ignition Relay"... Marked "DIODE" & Plug #F109 in Haynes Wiring Diagram NOTE: BOTH of the DIODES worked: the problem was the RL wire [Red w Blue Stripe] had broken; it was an intermittent issue while it flexed around inside the plastic wrapping -- until it failed in my drive [she did not make me walk] That RL wire broken made the Check Engine Light FAIL to come on... ALSO; the ECM "the computer" would NOT cycle it's LED 5 pulse CODE with KEY ON -- LED on ECM stayed dark Which all led to NO Spark & would NOT Start ISSUE... hope that helps Thanks again! vtscooby
  2. -- All Plug F#'s are Referred to from the supplement section of a; -- 1980 to 1989 -- 1600/1800 SUBARU Haynes Manual; Wiring Diagram; [ ISBN# 1 85010 527 8 ] -- [Library of Congress Card Catalog # 88-81715] CORRECT !!!-- Power to the ECM "the computer" -- has Three Plugs [24Pin Plug #F106] ~ [10 Pin Plug #F107] ~ [18Pin Plug #F108] Power was correct & present on Plugs # F107 & F108 to the ECM But... on the ECM's [24 Pin Plug #F106] -- There was power missing on Pin #28 +#29 +#41 #29 & #41 are White Wires #28 is Green w White Stripe [Pin # 38 on the same #F106 Plug has a Red w Blue Stripe Wire marked RL] This "RL" #38 Pin had the power it should... TRACING these wires [W=White ~ GW = Green w White stripe ~ RL = Red w Blue Stripe] They led back to the [#F79 Ignition Relay] [w W + GW + RL Wires going to it] AND +++ the #F109 DIODE -- [w RL & GW Wires going to it] As mentioned; I had changed the Ignition Relay once already... I had even unplugged & re-plugged the #F109 DIODE... When i went to REPLACE the #F109 Diode with one from a junk car... The RED with Blue striped wire BROKE off the Connector for the DIODE... WONDERFUL: Actual PROBLEM FOUND +:-) !!! Went back to the junk car and cut the wiring harness Plug for DIODE #F109 out; Soldiered the RL & GW Wires &+++ Shrink wrapped them up for this F#109 plug -- Then put the DIODE back in ... TURN the KEY!!!~ Check Engine light BACK ON !!! ECM or "the computer" Blinked it's 5 pulse pattern: & the SUBARU Loyale; "once again" started up & purrs like a kitten! What a beautiful thing! THANK you ALL for your time and considerations! PEACE & BEST REGARDS vtscooby
  3. I have a Haynes manual w a supplement added to the manual for GL-10 Cars -- [all carburated] Not great for a ECM wiring diagram for Throttle Body Fuel Injected Loyale -- any better info available for the Power & Ground wiring for ECM on a Loyale? --
  4. 1994 Subaru Loyale -- that will NOT Start -- 1.8 engine - Throttle body Fuel Injected 4WD Standard Transmission Fuel Pump comes on... Has NO spark... Appears to be an Intermittent electrical issue -- Several times in the last few weeks it would not start -- & then is would after a bit... It got me home and now it will not start at all... Turns over Fine -- Checked timing belts -- Distributor's Rotor Turns fine with cap off... [screw is tight in Rotor] Changed coil & ignition unit Changed Distributor -- with NEW Cap and Rotor Changed relays above Computer! ------------------------- Noticed something here: NO lights on Computer! -- LED Light Blinks NOTHING? Also -- when you first turn the key on; -- NO [C.E.L.] on Dash -- before starting: I have a 1992 Loyale that runs fine - - when you first turn the key -- Lights on Dash are: Charge & Oil on Left ---- then Brake Fluid & Check Engine on Right-- NOT on the non-running 1994 Loyale -- Charge on Left -- NO Oil light -- on Right just the Brake Fluid light no C.E.L. [pulled dash & checked all the bulbs too...] Changed THREE different Computers all act the same way!? NO blinking led light on computer -- not five or seven pattern -- NOTHING... Something not right there... PLEASE -- Let me know what direction I should to go in now? Thanks in ADVANCE for all of the time and consideration that goes into the Replys! VTSCOOBY-
  5. 1994 Subaru Loyale -- that will NOT Start -- 1.8 engine - Throttle body Fuel Injected 4WD Standard Transmission Fuel Pump comes on... Has NO spark... Intermittent electrical issue -- Several times in the last few weeks it would not start -- & then is would after a bit... Got me home and now it will not start... Turns over -- Checked timing belts -- Distributor's Rotor Turns with cap off... [screw is tight in Rotor] Changed coil & ignition unit Changed Distributor -- with NEW Cap and Rotor Changed relays above Computer! ------------------------- Noticed something here: NO lights on Computer! -- LED Light Blinks NOTHING? Also -- when you first turn the key on NO [C.E.L.] on Dash -- Changed THREE different Computers all act the same way!? NO blinking led light on computer -- not five or seven pattern -- NOTHING... Let me know what direction I should to go in now? Thanks for your time and consideration! VTSCOOBY--
  6. YES!~ the Airtex E8059 Fuel Pump; Does work on the Throttle Body Fuel Injected 1994 Loyale!~ This appears to be the correct "high pressure" fuel pump!~ Thanks for all of your help!~ Best Regards
  7. What is the Best Option for "Factory Style" High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement?
  8. Hello; Fuel Pump Question; Subaru Loyale 1994 - 1.8 TBI Are the AirTex E8059 "Replacement" Fuel Pumps Correct; for the high pressure needs of the TBI on the 1.8 Subaru Loyales...!? Or are these for carbureted models Thanks in advance! vtscooby
  9. SPONGY Subaru Loyale Brakes!???? This problem is notorious with the Loyale Hill Holder systems... I am surprised there are not more Threads on this issue/problem... Looking for advice on Bleeding the brake system of a 94 Loyale! I have worked on many of these cars, NOT a nuby to auto mechanics... Every now and then I run into a Loyale that it seems, you just can't get the pedal back after bleeding the brakes... All lines inspected, replaced-- Not loosing any fluid...? Clear Bleeder hose shows NO air in fluid when bleeding the system? Plenty of volume pushed through to get normal air out of the lines... Does the Hill Holder Cylinder have air stuck into it? Thoughts on removing it from the system...? Thanks in advance for your time and consideration! vtscooby
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