4RnrRick

I don't think so.... EDIT - The FREE Cars & parts are gone! I hauled them to a wrecking yard....probably to get crushed.... Its just that my yard couldn't take the mess any more.

Sorry, but you HAVE to take the whole car.... all or none. If I don't find anyone that wants then, then I will just have to haul them away for scrap!

bad torques? I torqued everything with a torque wrench. and the head where put on at 55 ft lbs (not the 47 the book says) There was engine noise, then HG gone.... Yes there was engine noise (TOD) and it was getting quieter and then I seen the white smoke out the tail pipe. There is also water in the oil. how was oil pressure? It was half way up teh OEM gauge - looked fine to me. It is ashame you choose to give up, crap happens... I'm tired of dealing with it and got other projects I want to do....If the car was runnign I'm sure I could sell if for $1200-$1500....Actually I was kinda counting on that money!

Thats just a oily timing cover.... see this car had a hole through the block when I got it so there was oil everywhere! Anyways at lunch I fired it up and let it idle...well about about 5 minutes its started to quite down - Then it blew a head gasket - SON OF A B!!!!!!!! Anyways I'm done with it. I just going to get it out of the garage and try to give away the subie parts cars. and then when I get the title for this one (Its in process through the DMV) then I'm just going to try to sell this one for $250 because it a pretty nice car and be done with it. ARGH - I's so pissed off right now! If your interested, I'm located 20 minutes South of Eugene, Oregon.... PM or Email me at RickB@engineer.com edit - guess I should say what the cars are! Could be a nice car with a new motor! $250 : 1990 GL-10 Wagon, AWD, Auto, Blow head gasket (high compression MPFI EA82) Junker parts cars! FREE: 1989 GL Wagon, D/R, Manual, no motor, Bad Body (tree fell on car) FREE: 1988 GL Wagon, D/R, Manual, no motor, Bad Body (Car rearended) + tons of Misc motor parts

I just built the motor - so yes, its been apart. But I did not remove the oil pump, so I'm assuming thats okay since the donor motor (this short block) sounded nice and smooth. At lunch, I will go home and fire it up and let it run and see what happens.

Frank - Thanks for the explaination. Yes, thats mostly what the sound, sounds like. Probably also has a hint of exhaust leak in there also. No, I did not replace or even remove the oil pump. I've only had the engine running for say 3 minutes total.... and thats not all at once. 15-20 minutes for it to go away - ugh..... I bought the donor subies, so I have no idea how long they sat. But I did fire up the donor motor (spfi block) before I started the project to make sure the bottom end was good. But I'm sure all oil passages got fulling drained in the assembly process... Its just that with other motors I've built (not subies) the oiling system primes itself pretty quickly. Good to hear that it could be something so simple.

TOD?? Yes, I Might be able to record the sound but I can't do that until tonight. BTW I'm attaching a picture of what this setup looks like. if you look closely you will be able to see the MPFI injectors under the mess. and you can kinda see how I adapted the SPFI intake tube to the MPFI Thottle body and MAF. Also notice that there is no turbo on it.

I built a High Compression MPFI motor (non turbo) but somethings wrong. Its REALLY REALLY noisy. The sound is a loud mechanical sound. kinda like a rod knock but much more frequent??? BTW its installed in a 1990 Loyale with a 4spd Auto and all the parts are from EA82 wagons. Heres the parts I used. 88 SPFI block (was a good and smooth running motor) 88 MPFI heads & Cams (from a EA82T motor that had a rod knock) 90 MPFI Turbo Intake and Harness (with turbo removed) 90 MPFI Turbo ECU 88 SPFI Exhaust New head gaskets New cam tower o-rings Custom intake hose I also: Capped off the turbo oil pressure and return line. Routed the turbo coolant line through a hose (since the turbo is now removed) So did I miss something when I built the motor. I know there is something wrong with it becasue it sounds like crap - I'm just not sure where to go from here... Please HELP me identify the sound. It starts fine and I don't hear any stumbles through the lower rpm range. (but I'm affraid to run it much sounding like this)

Well the test drive today was sucessfull. All I had to do to get the 4wd light working (since the harness is a D/R 5speed harness running a PB 4wd tanny) was I had to jumper the ground wire (black) and the 4wd sensor wire (blue/red) on the tranny plugs since the tranny has a plug with 4 wires on the harness has a plug with 6 wires.

WOOHOO.... IT RUNS :banana: :banana: Was a tad bit loud because I forgot to put the exhaust back on, But it runs! Just got to trouble shoot the Tranny selector switch stuff and then I should be able to put everything back together 100% and test it. So swaping the Dash harness appears to have done the trick!

Thanks for the info guys! So should I torque them to factory spec - or is over torquing common a practice? I know with Toyota Supra Motors (7MGE & 7MGTE - 3.0L I-6 motor) the factory spec is too low and its a common pratice to over torque them by 15-20% since they are know for head gasket failures.

Are the head bolts on a EA82T Reusable? or are they Torque to Yeild? Oh and where is a good & cheap place to get Head Gasket Sets? or Should I just get individual Head gaskets. (I'm planning on building a High compression MPFI (minus turbo) with a SPFI short block.)

Tonight I decided to try to pull the dash harness from my donor car. I found out its really pretty simple to do. There is a couple cables (for vents), a couple vaccumm lines (for the vents), a bundle of plugs behind each kick panel (driver side and passenger side, 1 ground wire under the center console and 7 bolts and your can remove the complete dash (fully assemblied) from the car with the harness in it... Oh I also lowered the steering coloumn down by removing the bolts that hold it to the dash support bracket. It was so easy to do that I also did it to my good car. And after a bit of chasing wires down from the Push Button 4wd switch, I think I've got that figured out. on which wires I need to transfer to the new dash harness. Solid blue wire and a Green/yellow wire that goes from the main black connector on the driver side to the main white connector on the passenger side. Anyways this is the route I'm going right now and so far it hasn't been that bad. I just work on it a couple hours a night and so far with everything I've done - I might be up to 12+/- hours, and that includes reparing the front of the good car since it was damaged slightly.

Thanks for the info - I think I'm going to investigate the complexitiy of the dash harness some more... Wiring up the PB tranny looks pretty simple from what I seen. Its just that I'm this far into it and I kinda lost on whats the best way to finish the job for me and the information I have available......

Now that I'm dealing with this (like you said in the other thread) I'm really not that found of the whole idea? Mostly for teh fact that I don't have any good wiring harness info. Can I just swap the dash harness between the two cars? How big is the dash harness???? Is it the rest of the car (dash back) ??? or just under the dash?