4RnrRick

With the dual T-case mod, you need the additional lift for the front diff so it can be mouted under the Transaxle. I'm wanting to do this without doing the dual T-case. So I was curious on how much do you need for just a solid rear axle. I finally got around to measuring my EA82 and it looks to have a WMS (wheel mounting surface) around 60 1/2". So my idea of using a narrow track toy axle (55" WMS) is out , but the wide track Toyota axles (86-95) are 58" WMS and they have larger drum brakes than the early stuff. There are also disc brake conversions for both available also. And there is also a Full Floater kit which is available which would make installing a spool in the rear sweet. But then there is also the 60.75" WMS 95.5+Tacoma/4Runner rears that would match great. and some of those have the optioned TRD E-locker. If you guys are curious why i'm wanting a Toyota rear end its because gears and lockers are readily available and cheap compared to the nissan/datsun stuff.

My best guess would be a Peugeot........LOL Or the for sale section.

Well thats one way to look at it.

Guess you missed this on the MasterCraft site..... "© 2004 Cooper Tire & Rubber Company"

I don't need seat 'covers'...... I just want some new OEM foam for my seats. If I was going to replace them, I would probably just do it right and get some aftermarket sport seatslike this: Guess I'm going to have to call around and see what a real upholstery shop can do for me. They have got to have suppliers for this type of stuff. I haven't tried Subaru either, they 'might' have something, doubt it. Anybody else with any ideas.....

If I was going to go leafsprings, I would design the same type of traction bar that I have in my 4runner for the rear of the Subie. Basically its a ladder bar with a slip and twist joint on teh vehicle end that you centrally mount so it does not hinder articulation. Another problem with leaf springs is departure angle. its much hard to get a steeper departure angle with the leafs hanging back there but you can use buggy leafs to gain added travel... Hummm Also with rear link suspensions, the links really need to be longer than the distance to the stock suspension mounting locations. other wise when you flex they will bind easier and will cause lots of rear steer. Which in turn make it difficult to just go straight when you flex onto a obsticle. It much easier to design a link setup with longer links... Say atleast 40" lowers and 30" uppers. Can you tell I have experience with both leafs and links...... I just need to figure out what I want and if it will fit, so I don't have to do things twice. Who has a solid rear axle with a low lift....

When I say Rally, I mean drive faster than normal on gravel/dirt roads - not competition wise.... I believe increasing the travel in the front or the rear will increase the performance of the vehicle. What the front doesn't do the rear will make up for. Well thats my idea. Just think about any of the "late model" 4wd's, They are typically independant front and solid axle rear. And they do OKAY. Sure solid axle front and rear would better but I got my 4runner for that stuff. Also for my needs and desires, doing a Solid axle up front would just make it too tall. Pretty much the same problem for me with a dual case setup. Its just more than I'm looking for lift wise. And I really don't need that big of a tire, yet.....

But I don't want a LUMPY seat!!!

I've been thinking about this alot lately. Do you think 4" of lift is enough room out back for a solid rear axle conversion? What I mean by enough room is enough for some real suspension travel. I don't want it to be too tall since I still want to rally it. I would like it to look stock ish and not huge and have people be staring at my rear axle. Does that make sence? The axle I would prefer to use is a Toyota narrow track rear (79-85 4wd 55" WMS) with some early 3.90 gears and a locker of course. Probably a cheap Lockright. Still haven't decided if I want to just spring under it with leafs or do a nice 3 or 4 link with a panhard bar and coils. The link suspension would give me WAY better performance offroad but I'm not sure about mounting points yet for either one.

Oh and heres a couple more links.... Check out http://www.onboardair.com/ for all the York accesories and tech info. And here for some wiring/plumbing schematics: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=168402

To save you some trouble in searching other boards..... Heres what I currently run in my 4runner: Rotary York http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273874&highlight=rotary+york And heres what I had in my 2wd Prerunner which will probably end up in my Subie, eventually......: 210 York http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168115&highlight=york

Because I'm cheap..... and I already swapped out 75% of the interior from my parts car to get everything looks as nice as it does. Sure its not perfect, but I'm not that picky when it comes to a wheeler, eventually. And the only thing wrong now, is the foam in the driver seat....... BTW I have adjustable headrests and lumbar support........

The foam part of my left butt check area of my driver seat has rotten away to nothing leaving just the wire support under the cloth. It feels like I'm leaning to the left when I drive since I have no foam padding on my left butt check! The cloth part of the seats are in great condition, So the foam is the only bad part! Can you buy just the replacement foam? If so, Where? There are no upholstery shops in the town (8000 people) I live in. Or has anyone tried splicing in a good piece of foam say from the left butt check area of a good passenger seat. Seam slike that would work if you beveled the edge of the foam and glued it together.

I've messed around with one or let alone seen one, But from my 4wheeling experience typicllay the ones little air compressors supplied by the vehicle Manufactures are not up to the task of filling up tires. they are typically slow and get hot and burn up. But then again I've never had any experience with the subie one. The ones I've heard of are from buicks, Caddy's and I think a Lincoln Mark 5. they do work but are very slow ans typically burn up. But go ahead and try it. And yes all you have to do is just rig up a hose on it and power it and see what happens. Then if you like what you seen then you can rig up a pressure switch later on. Oh I would expect much of air tools since they need a lot of air and you need a reservior to run them. My Quick Air II with a 7 gallon tank that I had would run a impact but just barely and there was a lot of waiting for the reservior tank to fill back up.

Any of the local parts stores hould have them like NAPA....

Anybody know the dimension from Wheel Mounting Surface to Wheel Mounting Surface or WMS for the front and rear of a EA82 Subie? Also how wide is the body is at the fenders front and rear? I'm contemplating a Solid Axle Swap ('79-85 4wd Toyota rear axle with 3.90 gears from a 81-82 4x4 + a lock right : 55" WMS) for the rear of my new project but I want the tires to stay inside the body so I don't have to deal with fender flares.

SOB - I've typed this reponse twice now and the computer keeps screwing up and loosing it!!!!! ARGH :banghead: :banghead: Try 3 I'm 100% positive its right. all the numbers matched up and I double checked it. Nope, its still there. Whats that called and what does it do? kinda looks like a Subaru after thought to me..... Not sure. I guess it could be doing that. I tried to reproduce it today at lunch but I couldn't get it to do it. I know its done it twice on me so far. And I've only driven the car 4 times now. o the odd apear to me that there is a problem.

Heres some more info that might help: Rear defroster button was on, but I didn't seem to defrost the rear window???? The headlights were off this morning.... but the radio was on. All of the AC componets have been removed. When I got the car the AC pump was gone and the flex lines. Since I'm planning on installing OBA, I decided to remove all the other AC components. (radiator, acumulator, hardlines, AC Core, and I beileve the Core pressure switch) I really doubt this had anythign to do with it but who knows? The push button cluster on the right side of the steering wheel has been replaced with one that doesn't have the AC button. (the one one did but it was all busted up)

Okay, So I drove the newly acquire subie to work today. I had the defroster on and the fan on the highest setting. Well when I would accelerate I could hear the fan kick off and complete quit running? Then once I got up to speed, I could wait say 5 seconds and the fan would slowly start back up. Whats causing this? Is this Common? My old XJ use to have a similiar problem when the AC was on. Turned out the heater Fan was on the end of a wiring run that would tend to corrode so a quick rewire directly to the ignition power fix that problem.

Cool, thanks. Now how long would you expect a project like that to take for say a good mechanic that never dealt with subies before (eg. Me)? Day project or weekend project or more......? Oh not including the rear main so the engine stays in the car.

I understand that it was broke, but I don't understand why you wanted to break it more! :-\

I'm planning on to inspecting the oil pump before I buy a new one....... I really think I do since mine is LEAKING! I don't think it is, but your point is dually noted...... I just don't feel like pulling the engine since I don't have a cheery picker or engine stand at my house but I know people I can borrow them from if I change my mind. What does SOA stand for? GrossGary - Thanks for the detailed assembly info!

What do I need for a Poor mans gasket kit to seal up a leaky motor and to help the HVLA Tick? (EA82 SPFI) This is what I was thinking of. Basically everything easy to get to without pulling the motor. Oil Pan Gasket: Valve Cover Gaskets: Valve Cover Gromets: Oil Pump Gaskets and Front Main: Camshaft Carrier Seal Set: Oil Drain Plug Gasket: Oil Fill Tube gasket and Dipstick Tube o-ring: {Couldn't find a picture of them} Is there a seal for the cam tower? I think thats what its called. The piece above the head but under the valve cover... Should I add this one to the list? Timing Cover Gasket Set:

What does the V stand for in VLSD?