Steves72

Reporting back. Temps were tolerable today so I removed the knock sensor and it appeared to be in generally good shape except for a light amount of corrosion around the edge. I also noticed that the electrical connector was not bright and shiny. Pulled out a brass brush and worked both the block surface and the sensor mating surface. It was not easy to reach the electrical pin in the plug but I used a very soft emery board on it. Put it back together and utilized a dab of dielectric grease and the code is gone. Cost was zero but a small abrasion on the back of the hand from the throttle bracket. Getting my hand in there to start the bolt into the block was were I got the abrasion. Crossing my fingers and hoping that the issue is corrected.

I have replaced the knock sensor once previously. That last time the code was p0325. This time the car has a p1325 code. The cel light is not always on but it never blinks which I know is real bad for the cat. I have no issue buying a knock sensor and installing it but I do have two questions. Why a p1325 (now) versus a p0325 (in the past)? While doing a search on this web site, a long time user mentioned that for $20 a knock sensor could be had on eBay. When I did a search on eBay I found sensors for as little as $6 something and a flood of them for under $10. I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for and $6 seems like you are buying junk. Autozone wants $80 for one while I can pick up one from Rockauto in the 40-60 range. Am I overthinking this? Can I use the cheap Chinese junk being pushed on eBay or should I order the Bosch unit on Rockauto for $40? Car is a 2000 Legacy Outback Limited - 173,000 miles Steve

I found the diagnostic plug under the dash and jumpered it so I could read the code. I must have turned the key on around a dozen times before I felt comfortable saying it was a "51". I have no idea how to clear the code except maybe disconnecting the battery? I also learned that a working ABS system is not a requirement to pass my state's safety inspection which I have to do by the end of next month. I have a hunch that replacing the ABS system would likely lighten my wallet considerably.

How many times do you have to cycle the ignition key and does it have to happen in sequence? I drive the car daily and the light has remained on since Tuesday. I have probably started the car 20 times in the past five days.

Looking for information on just what is meant by code 51: Abnormal Valve Relay. Where is this part? Is it integral into the master ABS control unit that is on top of the frame on the front right side of the car? Can that relay be serviced? If it is not part of the master ABS control, where is it located? And, the most important question, how much, if I have to replace it. And, this is to add some background on the circumstanses. I was on my way home from work on Tuesday. It was snowing. I was approaching a light and it went yellow. I decide to stop but for the last 30 or so feet before the car came to a complete halt I hit glazing at started to slide. The ABS system reacted to the slide. I felt it through the brake pedal. Once I stopped which was a little over a car length beyond where the traffic plate sits, I quickly put it in reverse and backed up and on to the traffic plate and out of the intersection. I put the car back into drive and noticed that the ABS light was on. From the description above it should be obvious that the car is an automatic. Make and model are in the title. Car has 166,000 miles on it.

Based on what you have already done to the O2 sensors - new units and swapped from side to side. I think it is pretty safe to say it is time for a new cat. If CT is really strict on emissions - like PA - it is the only thing that will fix your issue once and for all. Steve

Final report. Got the car back today. My wallet is 4k lighter and the car has a remanufactured transmission. The front differential was shot. A remanufactured differential was not available anywhere. The only way I could get a differential was to buy a whole transmission. No one around this area had a used transmission. My mechanic got one from the dealer. Steve

I have one MWE axle and one raxles.com axle on my car. I bought the raxles.com axle last time because MWE took so long to get me their axle. I have zero complaints about either axle. Both drive fine and the raxles.com unit is warrantied for life. BUT, and that is a big but, you do have to return their axle to them first for that free replacement. Steve

Sorry, just saw your question. I went genuine part. Steve

When my OBW started tossing this code, I tried replacing the O2 sensors. I tried clearing the codes. I tried ... But, the code always returned. I wound up replacing the cat and put the heat shields back in place. The 0420 code has not returned since the new cat went on the car. That was over nine months ago. Steve

jheat71, I am experiencing similar symptoms. I have teeth broken off in the front differential. Your issue may be different but I just wanted to let you know what my mechanic encountered. Steve

Well, I said I would report back what the issue was when it was solved. It turns out that there are more issues than originally thought. I went to get the car back today and instead of my car I drove home in a loaner. After the carrier bearing was installed and torqued to specifications the vibrations were even worse. The axle and new bearing were pulled back out and at least two different differential pieces were fished out of the case. My mechanic is uncertain if the bad bearing caused the teeth of the gears to break off or if the teeth breaking off led to the bearing failure. When I first felt this on Saturday I was 30+ miles from home and drove it in that condition. I drove it another 4 miles on Sunday, 28 miles to and from work on Monday. Finally, 10 more miles Tuesday morning to drop it off with my mechanic. Perhaps I should not have driven it that far but you do what you have to do. Steve

My father always talked with great fondness of his 1950 Buick. He loved that car. Steve

I will reiterate once more - this was not a failed DOJ. The failed component was not related to the CV joint. The failed bearing is inside the transaxle case. Steve

Yes, I believe you have pointed out the correct part. I do not know what the technical name for that bearing is but is is a type of carrier bearing. It does support the axle stub and there is one on each side of the transmission. Only one of them has gone bad on me and I did not feel it until Saturday. I did not like the feel of the vibration so I did not want to continue to drive it waiting for it to get much worse just in case it was the transmission itself. The symptoms I experienced was a vibration when pushing on the gas pedal. The harder the engine was working the more pronounced the vibration. There is a long down hill run on my way home and I lifted my foot off the gas pedal while the car accelerated on its own down that hill. At the bottom I was doing close to 75mph - no vibration. As soon as I put my foot back on the gas to climb the next uphill run, the vibration returned. There is another active thread on this board right now with symptoms very similar to mine. That car's symptoms sound more sever than mine. Perhaps because the issue has not been addressed immediately. Steve