the_bard

Read fictional story once where a guy was driving around an old school bus in a convoy of old school busses (long, wierd story, but a good one). He hated keyed ignitions, so he replaced it with one of those huge, old lever-action switches, straight out of Frankenstein. Makes you wonder, doesn't it?

Sorta wish I had caught this thread earlier... I'm about fifteen minutes off exit 6 of 87 (north of Albany). Anyway, it's nice to hear that we've got another member in Upstate NY.

What is it with all the old school Subaru's being stolen lately?

Of course, if you get tired of dealing with it, you could always sell it to me . Or, when I finally replace my Loyale in a month or so, you could take a drive down here and grab whatever parts you need off of my Loyale, if you'd like.

My ECU was throwing a code 35, if'n I remember the code right, and I replaced my PCS. It was extremely easy to swap out, cheap (picked it up from a junkyard). Resistance 'cross the terminals was supposed to be 31.9 - 39.9 ohms, and I was getting 60+. Performance-wise... it idles a lot better now, and I believe the gas mileage improved. Beyond that, not much. On the bright side, that d**n check engine light went off. Annoyance.

Dang near crapped myself tonight... I read this thread, then went out to put gas in my wife's car. Passed a Loyale with just about the same paint job, and wondered if you were located in Troy... nope. Ah, well. Anyhow, it looks great! When I pick up my next wagon, I planned on redoing the underside with POR-15, then spraying that rubber undercoating over it. Your paint job makes me wonder if I'll want to do that underbody treatment on the sides, too, much like yours.

I wonder how much it'd run to get a custom y-pipe like that welded up? I don't have access to a mig welder, just an arc welder, and my welding skills aren't up to the task. I've been thinking about taking some measurements, drawing up a CAD model, and then ordering the sections off JC Whitney & whatever catalytic converter site I found that one time.

I actually ran across this exact problem a few weeks ago... got it solved fairly simple, too. It ended up being a bad purge control solenoid, and it was awful easy to fix. It's located to the left of the throttle body. I needed to undo the air intake and lift it up a bit so I could really get to the PCS. It's a boxy looking thing with a couple vacuum lines coming off from it, and this little black plastic cylinder on one side. I can probably get pics tomorrow morning if you need to. Undo the electrical connections, and test the resistance off the terminals of the solenoid. Going by memory, the resistance ought to be between 31.9 and 39.9 ohms. The lowest mine got when I tested it was 60 ohms, before it died completely. To remove it, you'll need to pull the two vacuum lines off... be careful of the one that comes off the top, since the "plug" is plastic, and can be fairly brittle (j/y guy broke it off of my first donor). The other has a metal clip that needs to be depressed a bit to pull it off. Only one screw/bolt holds the thing down. To replace it, I ran out to my local parts yard, and had them pull another one. I tested the resistance, got the proper reading, and slapped it in. Took all of five minutes. $20, too, though they had no clue how much it was worth (and truth be told, neither did I), nor what it did. Fixed the rogue idle problem I'd been having, too. Lemme know if you need pics.

Over here, on the east coast, I seem to find a lot of the newer Outbacks & Foresters. Every now and then, I'll see a Baja. It's not too hard to find the Loyales... they're rusting away in the junkyards, for the most part. I've seen only two on the road that have no rust on them *sigh*. Everything older than that has rusted completely away, I think. I have yet to see an EA81 in a junkyard up here. Maybe I'm not looking hard enough, but I think they've all disintegrated.

Been there. I looked under the hood of my Loyale a few months ago, and there was a puddle of antifreeze sitting in a depression on the block nearby the oil fill tube. Never figured out where it came from... a few weeks before, it had leaked via a loose heater hose, but that was going into the firewall. It hasn't shown up since, either. *shrug*

Gremlins.

When you find a can of that, lemme know, ok? Hope they make "Rust No More", too. Preferably in an aerosol can

Swapped out the solenoid this morning, and my little red Subie's purring again. Ran out 'n' bought a new digital multimeter, then headed up to a local junkyard. Tested the "new" one (~36 ohms), traded it for $20, and slapped it in. Adjusted the idle, and she hasn't wavered yet. Slapped on a new muffler while I was at it. If it wasn't for the rust, I'd be a very happy Subie owner right now :-p

I second that... I've spent the last year and a half dreaming over how my next Subie is going to look, and a lift is going to be fairly integral to all of it. And if I've got to go all the way to Australia to get it, it's gonna be a tad bit more difficult. Somebody ought to run up a decal, something like "BYB Lift with help from PK." Or something to that effect.

Not to go OT, but if the best parts out of the Honda are the springs...

Never mind. I googled for it. Just in case anybody else wants to know, supposedly, if you spray carb cleaner, WD-40, starter fluid, or something to the same effect (flammable, I figure) on a vacuum hose, and it's leaking at that particular spot, the engine RPM's ought to change as the stuff gets sucked in and burned. I've got the day off Tuesday... I'll spend some time looking over the hoses. I checked the resistance on the leads today, and got anywhere from 60-90 ohms... a lot higher than the 31.9-39.9 it's supposed to be. Assuming what I'm looking at is the PCS, at least... to the left of the throttle body, got a few vacuum hoses on it (one leading to a cylinder to the left rear of the engine bay, another leading to the cylinder in the left front of the bay), and this funny looking black plastic cylinder piece sticking out of it. That sound right?

I'm getting a CEL and a code of 35... I haven't noticed any particular symptoms when the CEL is on versus off, though. I have seen that the idle seems to vary by a lot (sometimes as high as 1300 and as low as 400 RPMs). The idle problems do not occur at the same time as the CEL, however. I figured I'd borrow the multimeter down at work and check the PCS with it (resistance across the terminals, right?). If it's bad, and I replace it, and the idle problems continue, or if the PCS tests good, I'll start checking for a vacuum leak. I've seen several threads about using WD-40 to check for said leaks... anybody care to elaborate on it? Thanks guys

<OT = Off Topic> lmho = Laughing My (Insert Random Body Part Here) Off. Don't worry 'bout the stupidity, since we've all been there. Nobody's born with the knowledge. </OT> I prefer the words myself, too... along with smilies. Lots of smilies. Nothing else conveys emotions like smilies do. Anyway, I don't have any idea whether 1400 heads bolt onto a EA71... <helpless shrug>

You were probably looking for http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797.HTML . They've since redone their webpage, and that link's gone :-\.

So far, I've only been brave enough to tow a friend's Saturn up a hill and to the lot in front of his apartment... a few hundred feet, at little more than 10 mph (at most). Loyale handled it fairly well, though... didn't complain at all. That'll probably be the extent of my towing adventures, though... I've got my eye on a hatch. Suppose I could pick up a light boat at some point, though, and haul that...

If your looking at halfshafts, try http://www.cvaxles.com . If you're looking for someone local, there's one heckuva following from your area... somebody ought to know. Last I heard, cvaxles.com is about $55 each halfaxle. Not sure what shipping is, or core charges. I went with Advance on my last one, and paid double that.

So I talked to the owner of my favorite junkyard... in exchange for me spending my spare days at the yard, covering the phone so he gets to go out and do whatever he wants to, I get a free chassis and parts . We haven't worked out exactly how many days equals the chassis, but I doubt he's too worried about it... he seemed rather enjoyed just to be able to get out from behind the desk. The only other Subaru on the lot is an '88 GL wagon that they're donating to a "Race For The Blind" or something like that... looks like it's been sitting for a good three years or so, with no parts removed, and a running engine. Seems Subaru's aren't in high demand...:-\ Anyhow, I figure I'm going to pull my engine, and swap it into the '94 chassis. The 3at that's in it is going to be replaced with my 5spd pushbutton, or a D/R if I can find one. That '88 has one that seems in working order... depending on what kind of condition it's in after this race, I might just use it. Anyway, while I've got my engine out, I figured I'd perform the following maintenance on it. Keep in mind that she's got 226k on her. LIfters are getting knocky, and it has a funky intermittent idle problem (occasionally wants to swing the idle between 700 & 1,300 rpm's, and the idle air control valve adjustments I made yesterday to it didn't want to change the idle speed at all). Oil pressure is starting to go south on it, too... used to run about 50 psi going down the highway, now it's about 35. Some of the maintenance I figure is needed, some of it's "while I've got the engine out..." 1. Pull the oil pump, and inspect it, replacing if necessary. 2. Replace the oil pump gasket regardless. 3. Water pump inspection, and replace the seal. 4. Rear main seal. 5. Oil pan gasket. 6. Timing belts (no clue when it was changed last... :-\ ) 7. Timing belt idlers. 8. Thermostat. 9. Replace the mechanical fan with a second electrical, hopefully with a temp sensor & manual override switch. Advance had a couple wierd timing belt cover gaskets/seals that had me confused a bit. Apparently, they're selling a gasket, and dust seal, too. Do I need both? I'd like to swap out the clutch & related parts while I'm in there, but Advance was asking anywhere from $208 to $245 for a clutch kit (5 piece). I'm thinking I might want to inspect the various pieces, and replace as necessary... going with remanufactured if I can. The other obvious tune-up stuff will be done, too... filters, plugs, wires, that sorta thing. The engine in the '94 has around 100k on it, if I remember right, and runs... though it seems to leak oil like a sieve. Mine might be a bit more worn at 226k, but she doesn't burn the oil... so I'm going to stick with it. Just to be on the safe side, should I bother to get the compression tested on both engines, and go with whichever one's more consistent &/or stronger? It'd mean Any recommendations on brand names for the gaskets, too? If I end up swapping out the clutch, I figure I ought to get the flywheel resurfaced... what should I expect to pay for it? I haven't had any problems with water in the oil or vice versa, but should I replace the head gaskets while I've got it out? TIme shouldn't be a problem... I can take up to two weeks off of work, but I'd like to keep it limited to one week. All of this will happen probably mid to late June, depending on finances & arranging the time off work. One week, working 9-5, ought to be enough to get all this work done, given the right tools, enough determination, & enough coffee, right? Gotta get a set of manuals, too... should I hunt down a copy of the FSM's, or should I be able to get by with a copy of Chilton's or Hayne's and the search function on the USMB? Thanks guys :cool:

Looks kinda pretty. Someone wanna tell me how it works, now? :-p

This actually brings up a fairly good point. How's the "after the offtopic forum removal" bandwidth compared to the "before"? If it's more, and the administration (somebody mind writing up a quick little history that details the administration, and the evolution of the board?) considers that a factor, it ought to be addressed, most likely a call for more donations.

For what it's worth, I'm going to pipe up and say that we really need an off-topic board. Maybe an off-topic board that's more like a "Here's where all the threads that are automobile related but not Subaru related go"... but the need does exist.