grant

Yes. Swampers were designed to be safe and DOT legal. Swampers are also quite a bit quieter on the street. DOT tires have their place. Ice, and rocks primarily. There is no tire or vehicle that will be the best. The giant hunting rigs up here aren't very good for every day trail riding. Little tiny rigs aren't as good for rural hunting. Tractor tires really don't require wheel spin for forward motion in most cases. When they do, they still load up but require less RPM to clean. I can tell you that hauling tires to the trail head and swaping over is VERY annoying. I haul 600lbs of tires behind my tracker just to have fun. But I also have a decent set of DOT tires too. Its not like I don't like DOT tires... Here is the lineup that the Alaskan's use on hunting rigs: You guys can probably fit the first two tires (31x15.5-15). The third is a 35x14 swamper. LEFT TO RIGHT: 31x15.5-15 - .75" tread - $175 - Goodyear Terra Tire, mounted on wide rim 31x15.5-15 - .75" tread - $202 - Goodyear Traction Tire, mounted on narrower than factory specified rim 35x14.5-15 - ??? - SS TSL, 1/8" tread remaining, just for scale... 11.2-16 (35.5x11.8-16) - 1 3/8" tread - $148 - Goodyear DynaTorque II (small version of far right) 18.4-16.1 (44.8x20.1-16.1) - 1.6" tread - $499 - Firestone Traction Field and Roadmeasures 42" with no air, bias ply... Same as the good year Traction Sure Grip 18.4-16.1 (45x18-16.1) - 1.6" tread - $230 FOB - "American Farmer Apple", air pressure has a lot to do with final height on this one, radial ply 18.4-16.1 (44.7x18.6-16.1) - 1.6" tread - $399 - Titan Hi-Traction Lug R-1 19.5-24 (50.6x18-24) - 1.2" tread - $350 - Chinese R-4 Bias Industrial Tractor Tire 19.5x24 (50.6x19-24) - 1.2" tread - $350 - Chinese R-4 Radial Industrial Tractor Tire 16.9x24 (52.7x17-24) - 1.6" tread - $304 - Goodyear DynaTorque II And here is a 44" tire loaded up

Having lugs far apart helps the tire in stickey mud. Tractor tires have even more void between lugs than the ATV tire. If anything, it increases traction. You can get away with a narrower tire if it has a better tread pattern and/or deeper tread. The swamper is a street tire with street handling in mind during manufacturing and design. They will load up before a tractor tire will. I saw a 2wd subaru in here with some tractor tires on the front. There are a few goodyear tractor tires that will fit subarus. Many of them are going to be listed as high flotation front tires. There aren't many for 14" rims that I am aware of, but PLENTY for 15". I have a set of 31x15.5-15 Goodyear Xterra tires that work great. But they're on a Geo Tracker.

They "run" on the road, but they are not DOT approved. Plus they would wear out quickly. I run 235/75R15 tires and tow the terra tires on a subaru trailer behind me. The terra tires are 31.5" tall and 15" wide. They are for a 15" rim. They are the smallest tractor tire I've ever seen used on vehicles. There are some smaller ones that a subaru might handle, but I've never priced them out. I have collected a bunch of tires and put together a picture: All of these tire images are to scale. LEFT TO RIGHT: 31x15.5-15 - .75" tread - $175 - Goodyear Terra Tire, mounted on wide rim 31x15.5-15 - .75" tread - $202 - Goodyear Traction Tire, mounted on narrower than factory specified rim 35x14.5-15 - ??? - SS TSL, 1/8" tread remaining, just for scale... 11.2-16 (35.5x11.8-16) - 1 3/8" tread - $148 - Goodyear DynaTorque II (small version of far right) 18.4-16.1 (44.8x20.1-16.1) - 1.6" tread - $499 - Firestone Traction Field and Roadmeasures 42" with no air, bias ply... Same as the good year Traction Sure Grip 18.4-16.1 (45x18-16.1) - 1.6" tread - $230 FOB - "American Farmer Apple", air pressure has a lot to do with final height on this one, radial ply 18.4-16.1 (44.7x18.6-16.1) - 1.6" tread - $399 - Titan Hi-Traction Lug R-1 19.5-24 (50.6x18-24) - 1.2" tread - $350 - Chinese R-4 Bias Industrial Tractor Tire 19.5x24 (50.6x19-24) - 1.2" tread - $350 - Chinese R-4 Radial Industrial Tractor Tire 16.9x24 (52.7x17-24) - 1.6" tread - $304 - Goodyear DynaTorque II More later, I'm tired! Here is the tracker pulling my F150. It has slightly bigger tires. Not subaru related, but neat! This is the tire I wanted to put on the outback I've got. But I think instead of cutting it up my brother is going to repair it and drive it. Its not as big as it looks. Its 35.5 inches tall.

You don't need lights until October but the police can still give you tickets. I only recently started driving it on the streets. I now have headlights, turn signals, and license plates on the front.

None of the pictures are "mine" except the rickshaw ones and those are on hillside in Anchorage. I almost got a subaru to build up a year ago, but I finally got a wrecked Tracker (BIG atv with a heated cab) One thing that you guys would be interested in is this subaru trailer. Its made out of the rear 4 bolt torsion axle from a 2 wheel drive subaru. Just bolt the axle to a trailer to a frame and add shocks and you have a REAL NICE trailer! I've put around 1500lbs of stuff on one before. Its real soft and sucks up the bumps nice...

A little late, but yep. I am logjam in other places.

One of them does not use a solenoid?

What are the differences between the transmissions which allow the solenoid modification and the transmission in the 2002 outback?

Great pictures! More than I could have hoped for! From what I've seen in a few pictures I can't understand why it would be weak at all. In fact, I'm surprised to see such a small pinion in such a high performance car. This is the FWD pinion: This is the FWD pinion as a whole: Here is the back side of the transmission: It looks like FWD pinion is gear driven off of the same shaft that drives the RWD clutch. So the full torque of the transmission passes through the upper gear which drives the RWD clutch. If a good RWD clutch elimination solution were found I don't see what the problems would be with strenth.

Since the front body is trashed I was thinking about some 35s on toyota axles. Where do most people have a problem when using an AWD or 4wd transmission in RWD mode only? Is this really a concern when done properly or is it just a bunch of bad feelings?

Well, in my application I would like to run a transfer case off of the rear output. You guys don't think it will hold up? Since you've taken the clutch pack apart and rebuilt it, any good ideas on how to fuse them together? Bolting or changing the spring locations? I'm in Anchorage. Last time I had a subary annoy me it turned into a trailer.

No chance of bolting the clutch plates or changing the bias between them to make it as good as locked? How deep in there is it? Can I get to it from the oil pan? Does anyone know where to get subaru engine to toyota/suzuki transmission adaptors? I have this 2002 outback and the poor thing only has 32k on it, but it will never be a "car" due to front end dammage. Thanks.

I have a 2002 Outback Sport that I want to weld or lock the center differentail. Its an AWD right now. It has the 4 speed automatic transmission. Is there some sort of center dif lock already present on these transmissions? Is this easily done? Or does the entire transmission have to come apart first? Basically I want to use the rear output of this engine to drive a transfer case. The front half shaft outputs won't be used anymore.

I kept on thinking that looked like alaska, and then I went to look at your profile... The pipeline made it even easier. So is the engine good?

I did a carfax free thing and only got a little info. But at least it shows the brand. Vin: JF2AN55B9GD437013 Year/Make/Model: 1986 SUBARU GL10 4WD Body Style: Station Wagon Engine: 1.8L L4 TURBO I am going to try to go see the thing on Sunday. Its a 1.5hour drive out there. I've noticed so far that according to this site the 5 speed is a dual range,. I think I'm going to give up./ Can't tell any more from here...