ausubaru92

Naru is spot on. The fuel pressure regulator is referenced to manifold pressure. Its a 1:1 ratio and thus is not rising rate In my testing with a fuel pressure gauge zip-tied to the windscreen wiper, mid-high 20s at idle, 46psi at full boost (10psi in my case)

On Series 2 cars with the hotwire MAF, the solenoid controlled boost pressure. It was basically an altitude compressor and increased boost pressure a little at higher altitudes when the ECU detected the MAF voltage was lower than it expected for a given RPM/throttle position Said no-one ever

there is a hole in the case of the ecu about half way down the side and if you look inside you can see s a green LED flashing. It also displays the codes in diagnosis mode

What base ignition timing do you set your dizzy to on series 1 turbo motors? 20deg like later series 2 MPFI an turbo motors? Do you set advance with the vac line unplugged like you do with carby motors? Could it be that the retard only diaphragm starts retarding from 20deg advance at -20in/Hg manifold vacuum, through to 0deg advance at 7psi (guessed figures)

Infra red LEDs. can only see them shining when looking through phone camera (light purple colour) The LED's wont be connected to the output wires directly, they will feed the gate of a FET which will be connected to the output wires along with some circuitry for noise and error correction. If you remove it from the dizzy and post it to me, I'll power it up, test it and share the photos

Can I have it? I would like to do some testing on it

Any update on your issue?

Just for a point of interest. the Subaru optical distributor uses a J912 Mitsubishi Crank Angle Sensor that is also found in these vehicles 1993-1998 Mercury Villager 3.0 1991-1994 Infiniti G20 SR20DE 1988-1990 Isuzu Trooper 2.6/2.8 1984-1986 Nissan S12 200SX CA18ET 1989-1990 Nissan S13 240SX KA24E 1981-1983 Nissan S130 280ZX Turbo 1984-1989 Nissan Z31 300ZX VG30/VG30T 1986 Nissan 720 Z24I 1990 Nissan Axxess KA24E 1986-1994 Nissan D21 Z24I, VG30, KA24 1985-1994 Nissan Maxima VG30E 1992-1993 Nissan NX GA16DE, SR20DE

sounds like a slipping clutch

Same, was thinking of using either a silicone 32-38mm reducer or one of these but with the flange cut off ($11.20 each off ebay) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tri-clamp-Concentric-Reducer-Stainless-Steel-SS304-Sanitary-3-4-3/222598713264?hash=item33d3eacfb0%3Am%3AmdzEilh15fEIPwDm8fWgaEA&var=521438835953

Thanks Same colours as the 88XT but with reference and position wires reversed. Should mean that +12v (red) and Gnd (black/red) are correct which is the main thing

Ahh so thats the reason for the 2nd account Suppose its a bit like changing the oil and forgetting to put the sump plug back in and wondering why its taking so much to refill

I cant see why There is no new load on the engine. In the pt4wd the engine torque drove the front wheels which pushed the vehicle, and the moving vehicle made the rear wheels turn which made the rear diff and tailshaft turn Now the ft4wd box transfers the engine torque between the front and rear. Same amount of rating metal (mass) and same amount of friction and losses (bearings and seals) The only time running in 2wd saves fuel is in a vehicle with unlockable hubs, where you could drive without the front diff and driveshafts turning and wasting power/fuel

How do you know it cuts out? Seems odd, does it cut back in or does it require a restart?

Nah, quoting Jono