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jwikan

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About jwikan

  • Birthday 05/08/1969

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  • Location
    Ossining ny
  • Vehicles
    1998 legacy awd

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  1. BTW does anyone know what the idle speed should be on the 2.2 legacy? It runs good but may be slightly low in the 400-600 range;the lower amount when ac is off the higher when ac is on. Is there an adjustment on these aside from the 2 throttle cables? It is a manual shift and never dies but I thought the emissions test needed a higher idle. j
  2. Oh boy you are right, I knocked IACV off the air filter box I unplugged the knock sensor and it still ran rough so that was a tell all. My mess up.I remember doing that in my younger days when I was actually a mechanic. Pretty rusty now but I did get that knock sensor in and out in about 5 minutes. Thank you magnet. This "newer" emissions stuff can be a wild goose chase. Just out of curiosity, how long will my computer store a knock sensor code and keep the light on? I did pull the negative batt cable so it will reset I am assuming. I guess I should erase this whole post. ha ha thanks, Jon
  3. Hi guys and gals, I was receiving a knock sensor code(98 legacy awd 2.2) so I reset the code. Sure enough after my first restart I got the code again. So I quickly installed a new Knock sensor. Now it starts and runs bad the car just dies if I don't ride the gas pedal. There is no longer a Check Engine Light. The car ran fine without the knock sensor installed. Any ideas? BTW I changed the air filter at the same time. Not sure if there is a sensor that would effect idle for that. Thanks for any replies jonwikan@earthlink.net
  4. Very funny Nipper...Yeah, I have spent a good 10 minutes on this forum whew.....besides, I couldn't have fixed it by now as all the dealers were closed when I called. I have found that a few minutes of research can save a lot of time and money. I will, however have to go with an OEM new starter even though rebuilt ones are 80 dollars and lifetime at Pep Boys. That's an excellent deal until you are stuck in the middle of Manhattan; or in the middle of nowhere for that matter. I have been lucky with a "discount" starter, however most of the time I end up replacing them every year or two, and thats a pain when the tow truck is on the way..... Yes, warranty but.......If I had a stick I might do it. At least I could push start it. Cheers guys and gals, thanks for the input. jw
  5. I suppose I coud file the contacts so they are even too. I may have to buy a new starter. Today when I did get it started the starter stayed engauged while the engine was running and wouldn't disengauge for several start stops. Fine now but that was a bit weird.
  6. Any ideas on where to get contacts? Wow! dealer wants $17. May have to bend over. Not that it's a pile of money; were talking principal here. jon
  7. Hey guys! All very thoughful and wise responses. I did check the cables at some point 3 years ago when this all started and I have replaced the battery when it died a while back and it didn't seem to change the occasional clicking. Getting 14 volts on the alt. I am assuming it's the contacts although I will take a quick double check on the items you guys listed before yanking the starter. I have had 3 Subarus now and every one has had the same problem at around just over 100,000 miles give or take. The new contact kit seems to give most starters a few more years of good life. thanks, jon
  8. My 96 legacy starter is clicking when I turn the key ultimately it starts but it is getting harder to start each day. On my older 84 subaru I would just replace the contacts and be good for a long time. Is there a contact kit for the 96 starters? or do I have to replace the entire starter? If so where is a good place to buy a quality starter besides the dealer if possible. I want to avoid the cheap junk. thanks, jon
  9. Help! My friends borrowed my 96 subaru legacy awd wagon and ran into a van. I had the front end repaired. Hood front headlights, bumper cover etc. I just noticed that both my right turn signals (front and rear) and hazards blink really dimly compared to the left side. Any ideas? Both headlight assemblies are new.comments appreciated, jon
  10. Does anyone have a vin number for any 1992-94 loyal wagon 4x4. I am trying to get an insurance quote and in new york I need a vin number of that year to obtain an accurate quote. If some one could send me theirs I can enter it on my insurance website and see if it is cheaper than my 87. I think it will be....jon ps. anyone need an 87 GL for parts? new york area....the rear end was hit and I will buy a new one, runs great. put in a japanees engine 30,000 ago. jwikan@earthlink.net
  11. Glen, It sounds like I don't have a GL 10, so that means the Bosch should work out. I agree the copper contacts probably need to be replaced. Then again I noticed the starter starting to slow down in cranking speed in the last year so it could be the starter itself. In other words I have been waiting for this day.
  12. I just bought a new starter because my old one fails now and then without warning, so far I have been able to compression start my car but this is crazy. My battery is brand new and the alternator is cranking 14.4 so that is ruled out. When it decides to fail I get no click or anything, just a serious draw on the battery a few hours later she starts right up...???.....my main question is reguarding the starter I just purchased which is a BOSCH. The one that is in there now is not a BOSCH. I have not compared side by side yet but the part that bolts to the engine looks the same. On the computer at the parts store it said it would fit anything but a GL 10, but what is a GL 10? I definately have a GL wagon but have never heard of the GL 10. Another thing is the computer did not ask weather I had manual or automatic? Does anyone know if this BOSCH will work? any input on any of this would be a great help....thanks, jon
  13. The other night I went to my studio to unload some gear. When I came back to start my 87 GL Wagon It wouldnt start, just click click. I assumed it was the starter since I had just put a new battery in. Anyhow I checked conections etc and rolled the car backwards out of the drive way and compression started it. After several minutes of running it started up no problem. Here is when I noticed the gauge said it was charging at about 14 volts which is great, BUT when I turn on the turn signal the gauge was bouncing up and down about 2 - 3 volts. Is this an indicator that the alternator is on its last legs and is not keeping up with my stereo etc......It was at night when this all happened and was cranking the stereo up. Any ideas??? thanks, jon
  14. Hey guys, FYI...I took the inst. panel off. There are 8 skrews, many more than my manual says and some a bit tricky to find. Then I realized that I was getting 12+ volts to the fan moter under the glove box..... 3 skrew/bolts takes the fan out on the 87 GL wagon. I took apart the moter (2 skrews) and it was full of condesation mold dirt....yuk.....I cleaned her up with wd-40 and a wire brush and it runs perfectly!!!
  15. I just had the same thing happen. I bought a new aftermarket one and had it installed it today. Pretty cheap too! Everything fit fine; it ran better and had more power. The new converter has a bit of a rattle in it. If anyone knows why, I am all ears; I am assuming aftermarket converters are just a bit more noisy.......... As far as running strait pipes. It is not good for your engine. Backfiring can cause damage on Subarus.I did it for a while but only when I had to drive.
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