leone

Searched the forums before posting, but didn't turn anything up. Does anybody know for sure if standard DIN chassis (1-2 DIN) radios will fit in the first generation (90-93) Legacy center console? I measured, but I'm coming up 3/16" too narrow for published radio sizes, but maybe actual radio chassis are more like 6 7/8 inches wide instead of 7 inches? I'm willing to do some plastic trimming, but really don't want to hack the metal too much if possible. Many thanks!

I owned an 1100 FF-1 from '77-81, and did all the repairs and maintenance myself. Mine was completely stock and everything worked perfectly. i can verify a few things from personal experience... The brake system was A-OK with DOT-3 brake fluid as was the Star and 360 models before. The dual radiator system worked great, and that was in Southern Lousiana and Central Arkansas in the Summer. At speed (above 30 or so), the fan would never have to run even on the hottest days. On cold days, there were times when it took a long time for the cabin to warm up though. The stock wheels were narrower (by 1/2 inch) than the later Leone models after '74. I currently have a '73 wagon that came with those same narrow wheels, but later models were 1/2" wider. The narrow wheels are very light, and combined with the in-board brake drums, the front torsion bar suspension, and the steering geometry, the FF-1 was the most fun car to drive of all the cars I've ever owned (and I'm not kidding). There is so little unsprung weight on a stock FF-1 that it literally "floats" over obstacles, and it was almost effortless to steer the car as well. The turning radius never failed to impress me. I could turn completely around in spaces that would be challenging for a large motorcycle! Great looking FF-1 Jamie! I'll keep my eye open for parts in the event you want to return more things back to stock. Subaru had nothing to be embarassed about the design of that car!

Not only that, but the camshaft of a donor engine would likely have to be swapped with an older camshaft as well (outboard exhaust valves). Most of the dry-sleeved complete engines to be found will be of the later type with SEEC-T heads (inboard exhaust port) and camshaft to match.

Hey thanks Subyguy! Let me know when you're ready and I'd love to make a deal on those. I had someone munch my bumper years ago, and finally found an NOS '73 bumper in Colorado Springs. But no luck with brackets all this time. My existing ones are pretty bad...could straighten left, but right one is torn apart. Someday I hope to get caught up with sorting and organizing, I'm hoping to post some of my excess stuff to maybe help out with parts on the board.

Thanks for the info Paul. I'll get in touch with Danny about the brackets. I know you're buried these days. I'm the same way... Sure would be nice to have 30 hours days and the energy of a 20-year-old again!

I've been looking for '72-73 front bumper brackets for some time now (and a few other things for my '73 Wagon). Any chance you have contact for that guy Danny in TN? Thanks!

I had a thought. I apologize if I missed something, but I didn't remember reading in the thread about the cam set up on that eBay short block (I assume it was some kind of NOS situation). Fuji parts shipped a number of dry-sleeve EA-63 blocks cammed for outboard exhaust (intended for pre-76 warranty issues), but they also shipped dry-sleeve EA-63 blocks cammed for inboard exhaust (for later cars with the SEEC-T system and manual transmission). If you haven't already, probably a good thing to double check the cam set up before breaking down and reassembling the block. Again, I apologize if that had already been covered in the thread and I just missed it. P.S. I personally don't mind the wet-sleeve blocks. The one on my '73 wagon has never let me down. The heads just have to be assembled correctly with new crush rings and head gaskets, and then correctly re-torqued on schedule (something customers and dealers apparently could not ever seem to do right in the '70s). I suppose you wouldn't want to turbo charge an early wet-sleeve EA-63, but then even a dry-sleeve EA-63 isn't much up to that either.

I know it would be a lot of work, but maybe this could be a possibility: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-ENGINE-1200cc-1400cc-LAWRENCE-KS-/250926563097?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6c637f19 ? [url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-ENGINE-1200cc-1400cc-LAWRENCE-KS-/250926563097?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6c637f19][/url]

Yes, holes drilled to insure the block was not serviceable because of tax write off (IRS). Unfortunately witnessed such destructive activities while working at a Suburu distributor back in '76. The warehouse guys were known to "dumpster dive" hoping to save parts. A lot of old 360 parts were lost when tax write-offs were taken on unsold parts inventory.

Most likely is that the carb float has taken on fuel (leaked). Not easy replacement to find. It is possible to repair by draining and drying it out, find hole or split, and then seal with a tiny bit of solder. Too much solder and it will not be able to be adjusted from the extra weight though.

Todd, I don't have my parts book handy, but this looks like the correct one: http://tinyurl.com/4jegxd If link is not OK, just search for "420872022" on eBay. Good seller, but we should double check the P/N (and any supercedes) though. EDIT: Oops! Memory is failing me... I thought you were looking for the EI distributor. I see you were looking for the EI control module. I'll keep an eye out...

I just re-read my post, and I guess that was pretty confusing! Yes, what I meant was that 970autoparts had a couple of sets for sale. And I apologize for posting it here instead of the auction forum, but I really wanted to see one of us get them if needed. Some auctions are really trying to gouge people lately.

Normally I'd post this in the area for auction sightings, but I thought these would only be of interest to our "historic" crowd. Just received a couple of sets, and there are still a couple of sets left. Last time I saw these, one went for $38, so these are a bargain. Just search for "Subaru 6841" on eBay to find 'em.

Just some quick historical comments... In this photo you can clearly see the cam adjusters for the front ends of the torsion bars (two of them) on the front of the car. No struts on these guys. And unlike VW beetles, there is a separate torsion bar for each side. Together with the two in the rear, there are four independent torsion bars for the suspension. Perfect in their simplicity. The cam adjusters are nice, and there is an equivalent adjustment (allen bolt) under a rubber plug in the trunk for adjusting the rear torsion bars. These are useful for leveling, but if used to raise the car, cornering stability will suffer. You can also clearly see that there are no heavy rotors, drums, or calipers on the wheel or knuckle (inboard brakes). The portion of the car that "floats" with the wheels and tires is extremely lightweight. I used to run 145-13s on the original 4.5" steel rims, and I could run my FF-1 over speed bumps and rocky country roads with ease at any speed (tiny unsprung weight). Also, the second radiator is actually a heater core, mounted under the hood to make more room in the cabin. The fan on this heater core (the only one on either radiator) has a damper control. The fan can kick in on hot days, deflecting the waste heat outside. If the heater core is removed, no heat inside for winter. The FF-1 had a little extra in the radiator department, but no need for a large fan otherwise (more power for locomotion). The FF-1 had a lot of really innovative design features, many ahead of their time for a production car. Of course, it is just my opinion, but most "modernizing" would be a step backward from the original.

Also, as I recall, the selector shaft exits the rear of the early 5-speed at a more upward angle than did the 4 speeds. Caused a slight problem with one conversion I once did, but it did make it easier to indentify the 5 speed in a scrap yard.