jazzician

I have an '89 Subaru GL10. Going for a casual drive. One moment with turbo then no turbo. The turbo light indicator doesn't come on. I'm a big time newby and know little about how the turbo works to determine if it's something electrical or the turbo unit itself. Don't know if it would help to read a manual as it's probably a little more technical than I am. Any thoughts as to differentiating what it might be?

By "stumble", do you mean periodic quick hesitations during acceleration? I have that with my 89 gl10 and we replaced the fuel pump and it stopped doing it for a bit but it is starting up again after a year or so.

Yah, that seems to be the general consensus. Just had an issue with rad fluid leak and heating (not that they are generally connected) so I'll jump on the intercooler wagon to avoid more heating issues. Seems that the Saab 900 seems to be a popular choice. I'll check out the Ebay Boost Controller too. Seems like a good reliable deal. Simon BTW: Is it my imagination or is 1st gear pretty low? Maybe it's just me.

Thanks for the thinkings. I actually cut out the bottom of the Airbox to try to get more cool air as an alternative to an intercooler. This was at the suggestion of my Subie mech as I was originally going to get an intercooler. Is there a considerable difference between a cut airbox and an intercooler? I've seen people do both. thx in advance, Simon

I believe the exaust we put in was for an XT. It's not stock but a dual tailpipe. I used to have a straight pipe but it was too noisy. I'm not sure about the cat though. I think that is stock. Speaking of oil, I noticed that K&N makes a oil filter (I think). What are the benefits over the stock filters? thx in advance, Simon

I was interested in getting a Boost Controller for my 89 GL10 as I am finding that my boost is kicking in many times just before shift and I don't feel that it is kicking in soon enough unless I really hit the gas. I guess first question, is the Boost Controller worth the purchase? I am making trips in the extreme heat this summer and as well as having the Boost kick in sooner, it would also be nice to retard the boost with consideration about engine heat in the summer. If it is a good purchase, is there a brand that you all recommend. I was looking at qboost.com Simon

Would that cause the idle to be so crazy? I'll take a look at it, thx. Where do I find that? Is it the Turbo pipe that run overtop everything? thx in advance, Simon

My GL10 has become possessed. The car runs fine in driving mode but when I come up to a red light, the car will start idling at 2500 rpm. If I quickly hit the gas, it will drop down to 600 rpm, sit there for a bit then go back up to 2500 rpm. When the car is idling (for a short period) at 1000 or so, the engine is shaking a bit like it is idling at 600 rpm. There were some suggestions to check the hoses for leaks or that there could be a vacuum leak. This all started pretty suddenly. I noticed a tiny bit of something burning or exaust emitting from under the engine. I'm going to check again to see if I can locate it. Any thoughts on the rpm thing? I tried to adjust the rpm adjust screw just under the turbo pipe but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

I know that I had just posted looking for a mech for my CV jt. just recently but now encountered a leak around one of the head gaskets and desperately need someone in the Victoria, B.C. area. There was mention of a guy in Duncan but I'm not sure if that is a risk to try to get to him with this kind of Rad Fluid Leak. I went to see a couple of guys in Victoria but they seem to be ready to suck me dry. This is kind of annoying as I had a rebuilt put in not 2 months ago with new heads, gasket, bearings and so on and I'm really not into doing that again and with it being done by a private mechanic in Vernon, I'm not counting on a huge amount of support from him. Anyhoo, any thoughts or names of priv mechs in the Victoria area would be great. thanks in advance, Simon

Yah, I heard that there is a good Subie salvage yard that I'm assuming is the one in Duncan. Maybe take a day and hook up there and check it out. Simon I'm not in the area but if your up in my neck of the woods give me a call and we'll see what we can do to your car. A cv should run you about 150-200 bucks installed.

Well, when I reach non-poor status, I was wanting to lift it a bit w/ a suspension mod so I can take it off-roading. Not so much performance mods. I'm pretty happy with it currently. Maybe an intercooler or boost control. Not sure. I guess to discuss it with a mech as to what makes sense. Simon CV's aren't that hard to replace. Not as fun when the weather is bad and you dont have a garage though. I have gotten mine from crappy tire and they come with a lifetime warranty. So far they have been holding up well. What sort of further work are you looking to do?

I need to get some stuff done to my 89 GL10 and wondering is anyone is interested or knows anyone that is interested in doing some work. My CV jt. is needing replacing and I would like to look into further mod'ing my car. I'm in Victoria and work in Saanich. You can email me at jazzician@shaw.ca Simon

Is there snow where you are? I found that I got some snow stuck in the wheels somewhere and threw off the weight balance. simon

Got it figured out. I replaced the engine on another matter and the car continued to surge after that. The headers were bad on one side so we replaced those (assuming the noise was setting off the knock sensor) and replaced the fuel pump and the hesitations are no more. Yayyyy, I say as they were realllllly annoying. Simon

I have to check my filter. I feel like I'm getting very little fuel for 3 or 4 seconds when I stop at a light sometime or start/stopping on a hill (which can be a real bummer as I nearly stall the car). I doesn't happen all the time too. Almost like there is a little Subaru Embolism that blocks the line and frees up and then blocks the line again. Not sure. Simon