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yarikoptic

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    http://www.onerussian.com

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  • Location
    Newark, NJ
  • Interests
    Legacy L, Wagon 2.2L AT
  • Vehicles
    95 Leg L AT, 01 LLBean

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  1. The patient is stable... although not breathing yet camshaft measurements (from ECU) were strange, like there was a short somewhere at first but then cleared (could it get stuck?). More details in https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=45358322&posted=1#post45358322 today I will place camshaft sensor back, engage fuel pump and give it another try. then will check with oscilloscope where the patient has any "pulse"
  2. Thanks! I dared to think about the timing chain -- after all it is a chain! and it drove "fine" day before, and according to wify it first started "fine". But indeed with current cool downs at night, and prior overheating, may be it indeed gave up -- will check where the heck it is in this beast and either it is possible to pick at it. Overheating -- yeah, didn't expect anything good to happen from that. but replace the hose, filled up with coolant and it worked just fine for 3 months, did not notice any overheating etc but indeed some systems could have been compromised by then.
  3. My wife told me today that "car does not drive, smoke is coming from above the left rear wheel", "yesterday it drove just fine", ... so I ended up enjoying her company at my work office. Came home, tried to start -- I thought first initial ones were almost like cranking, after a few I could smell some gas (I think not exhaust) smell, from the tail pipe there was a light white smoke slowly raising up/out. Did few gentle taps on the starter (in the back of the engine, nearby the AT dip stick)... no change. Wify on my question said that "it started" in the morning, but I wouldn't be too positive about that - although since she says that smoke was coming from the back, might as well has happened but then "died". Here is a video with sound from an attempt now: I checked on OBD-II - seems to be no codes. Almost never had to deal with ignition (besides changing spark plugs etc), primarily only mechanics, so not sure how to approach the problem: Is it a starter? not quite sure if that is the whole picture if it indeed did start in the morning (note: night/morning outide temperature was about 41F, day > 70F) Could engine just seize may be? (unlikely I guess, but who knows given that 3 months back wify managed to drive it around for probably 10 minutes while coolant all was boiling out (hose ripped open) and car kept dying). edit 1: FWIW my wify stated that : car did start this morning, but refused to go backward (need to get back first, sightly up the hill) in previous days she felt some gas (or exhaust, she isn't sure) smell when starting So it is indeed probably not just a starter :-/ Not yet quite sure on how to diagnoze the beast - any ideas are welcome!
  4. apparently I've forgotten to follow up with the resolution in my case -- indeed was MAF sensor -- replaced it and problem was gone, car was sold a year after or smth like that ;-)
  5. thanks but nevermind 2001-2002, should match engine size (i.e. 2.5L is not interchangable with 3.0L). 2003-2004 seems to be interchangable -- that is what I've discovered. Got myself used one from 3.0L one for 2001 (from 2002 car) for 69$+15$shipping off ebay. Local junk yard wanted 200$ ufff
  6. Hi Schoobywagon, did I read it right, that for 2001 subi they should be interchangable (i.e. 2.5 and 3.0L ones) although they have different subaru part #s?
  7. doh -- I guess I should have PMed instead of following up the thread

     

    do you still have 73111AE040 compressor for 3.0L 2001?

  8. I bet you will pull out just as much as you already saw it going out... unfortunately studs (afaik) cannot be pulled out without taking those bearings out... ie without "unscrewing" those covers on top of them, which you should not do since it would break differential alignment which would be the beast to get back into proper position... so I would recommend not doing what you have planed, but rather trying my 'solution' (pump the boots with air so they press the CFJ (and studs) inside the differential, hence acomplishing the job of those o-rings on the ends of the studs inside differential) The reason for all this mess, I guess, is weak 'o-rings' which sit at the end of the studs inside the differential, which should forbid studs from jumping out of the differential (few mm freeplay seems to be within the norms, but 1/2 in is way too much, means that those o-rings either already fell down into differential already, or just too weak and don't forbid them been "pressed" into the bearing when the stud is pulled out.
  9. Damn me, I has been planing to write up a proper "solution description", or actually "workaround" which I came up with... in just few words for now: I took old CVs, where I needed to change one internal boot, and then I "clamped" the boots in the position when the axle is the longest, so now boots are pretty much "pumped with the air" whenever you assemble CVs back into the vehicle. That causes inner SFJ to be "pressed into" the differential, so there is no easy freeplay of the studs. That almost completely eliminated my 20mph vibration issue and it goes along with another post somewhere else when the guy bought replacement CVs and they were "shorter" because boots were clamped (I speculated) in the "shortest CV" position, ie whenever turnion is deep within SFJ. I have driven the car with "pumped up boots" for approx 6kmiles by now. Boots didn't blow up, and vibration is close to none (ie someone who doesn't know would not detect it at all) Hope this would helps someone
  10. Hi all, I am sorry that I reincarnating my elderly questions: I had reported before about strange vibration (speed dependent at 20mph): prev thread. So last time I just gave up and drove through another year... it survived but driving became less and less enjoyable. As the result (I think) I also got now left inner steering tie-rod bad, and whole suspension "doesn't feel right"... Also it trembles at accelerations on high speeds (80mph), which I guess could also be due to weak tie-rod since I feel it also in stearing wheel, but not only there... I've tried to pry all the mounts/bushings to see if anything loose, so I would replace them if needed while changing tie-rod, but I have no clue how should it feel, so again -- no major result. Thus I wonder if anyone could recommend any sensible mechanic in central/nothern Jersey (I am at Passaic/Clifton now), who could 'smell' my car a bit? may be he could even get some idea on what is my 20mph vibration. thanks everyone in advance!
  11. nope. I reported on it earlier , then gave up on it, but I think I should come back to 'fixing' it... it is either front differential, or its studs or smth in suspention. I just need a reliable tech to look at it... but let me stop here to don't hijack the thread
  12. since it is H6 probably (2001 OB does have) it has external AT fluid filter which you might like to replace if you decide to change/refresh AT fluids. (yeah, people say that there is no need to replace it but since it is external, there could be a reason why it is made such... also I found it quite dirty in mine at 105k miles) 60k miles (or was it each 30?) iirc is recommended change interval of sparks and on H6 their change is fun -- so you can dedicate a few hours for that (unless you are going to raise the engine anyways which would make things much easier) and I hope it doesn't have that weird vibration problem (at 20mph) which I am still fighting ;-)
  13. I hope that aftermarket one I will get at AdvancedAuto is good enough... no time to wait for OEM to arrive nope -- as I said I had to add most of the coolant in excess of full from the extension tank -- so there was quite a bit of air there.
  14. Did radiator flush, changed thermostat and lower hose. I retighted one of the upper houses with regular aftermarket clamp (with a screw which threads on clamp itself... you know I think which one). Everything seemed to be ok, ie no overhitting but no coolant from extension tank is sucked into the radiator. instead after car get cold overnight I have extension tank almost filled up to the cup, and radiator and hoses full of air (I do not hear any suction when I am opening pressure cap). At first I thought that there is a hole in the hose which goes from the cap to extension tank. but I took mityvac and could suck in coolant and didn't see bubbling. when I sucked out coolant from extension tank I could fill up through the radiator cap but there was more than 'MAX' left in extension -- I emptied pockets in the upper pipes but no guarantee that some are not in the engine block already. I doubt that the hole is in radiator hoses since otherwise they would leak -- I would loose more of coolant I guess... so is that simply a radiator pressure cap is bad somehow? but it seemed to work fine before my 'flush'... what else to look for?
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