saltytheseadog

I don't see signs of leakage there. Air in would mean fluid out wouldn't it ? I may replace them because I can't think of anything else to do.

This brake system still has air in it or air getting into it. I went around bleeding the lines starting at the M/C twice through . All the bleeders are clear of air except the left rear which I have collected a half pint of fluid from and still no end in sight from air bubbles in the fluid. I'm thinking that the air is somehow getting into the system but can't think how. If there were even a pinhole leak in a line shouldn't there be fluid escaping from said hole when under pressure. There must be something else going on for that much air in the line.

Today we bled the MC and found some air in rear cyl. but mostly clear. Followed Haynes recommended bleeding order and all except left rear were clear of air. Left rear line had a lot of air in it but finally cleared out. We will give it another round tomorrow when our brake fluid supply is replenished but most air is gone now. I'll try the order czny suggests, it is also the order used in How to keep your Subaru alive for OHC cars

The way to bleed I've been told is start with the furthest away from MC, then next furthest etc. Haven't bled MC, didn't notice any bleed valve on it. Is there a procedure for this? Just checked with Haynes; right rear,left front,left rear, right front. Ok got it. Try bleeding MC tomorrow and follow proper order. Thanks I'll report back

I've been repairing the brakes of a loyale. So far I've replaced the Master Cylinder, the brake shoes, and the wheel cylinders. Drums are both on. Bled right rear brake, came clear of air after half dozen pumps of brake pedal. At Left rear after 30 -40 pumps of pedal it continues to produce air. Pumping up brakes indicates air in line as pressure builds up with pumping. I can't detect any system leaks and would expect to hear noises , see fluid dripping if a line were corroded through. I clamped down on the reservoir to see if the new grommets that came with the master cylinder were leaking but made no difference. I have a clear hose on the bleed nipple and every pump is 10 to 12 inches of brake line so the line should be clear. Any comments?

The tapped hole was steel

The rusted damper appears to have been a press fit over the tee coming off the pump. The hole was a little big for a pipe tap and the depth was limited but I was able to tap a few threads and install a pipe plug with a generous amount of seal all which is gasoline resistant . My first choice was an epoxy based product but unless specific to gasoline use, may break down. The test will be whether is will withstand the pressure.

That's my unit without the rust. The end of the damper unit is totally rusted away. It looks from the photo like it may thread on to the tee in which case I may be able to unthread it and put a plug in to save the pump. The unit is on a car at a remote property with less than a mile of roads. If I can get another 100 miles out it then it will probably outlive me.

I'm not sure what the device is at the delivery end of the fuel pump after it tee's off but mine has rusted out completely. It looks like one of the fuel line dampers found just downstream of the tee and throughout the vehicle. Questions ; Is it necessary ? How is it attached, mine is too rusty to tell ?

Thanks . The Subie is retired and will be used as a utility vehicle at a remote camp with very little, but rough road. The wheels are there now and I'm back in town, and I'm trying to find out if I have to figure out some way to bore out the wheels to fit over the spigot on the brakes for my next trip over there (be prepared my scout leader said).

Has anyone put 6 bolt datsun truck wheels on there 1990 Loyale. I know I can drill the 2 offset holes but will the center bore fit the subaru hub?

I haven't either and didn't even know it existed until recently. The manual I'm using suggests setting the idle speed as a starting point after timing is set. I think it said to do with the IAC disconnected. Anyway I tried turning the screw both ways and it made little difference. Just wondering how the thing works. I'll know in the morning if the idle problem is solved as I found no power to the IAC until I messed with the harness connection and then got power.

Trying to get engine to idle properly . I may have found the problem in the IAC wiring harness, but my question is which way do you turn the IA screw to raise the RPM. I've gone both ways with it and there seems to be little response. I've had the IAC harness disconnected while doing so. Would like to know how it is supposed to work?

Update; Pulled engine and did one side that was suspect, the other had been done 50k ago, head gasket looked bad with obvious breach in it. Resealed the pan with Rightstuff again, and put a seal kit into oil pump. Haven't been able to road test it yet but runs nicely in the shop. Thanks for the advice from this forum.

Thanks for the information. Practically speaking if it is a case of leaky head gasket then it may spell the end for this car as it has rust issues and may not be worth the investment in parts. I did the passenger side Head gasket about 50k ago (resurfaced head OEM gaskets) so I may be able to get away with doing one side. Just don't know which side or both are bad. Do you think compressed air injected through a modified spark plug, wheels locked , cylinder at TDC would induce some gurgling in the coolant? Or just drive it till it starts belching steam?