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84SOOB

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About 84SOOB

  • Rank
    USMB Regular
  • Birthday 01/26/1968

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  • Location
    Portland, OR
  • Vehicles
    BRAT
  1. The cat converter was clogged. Took out the plug where the oxygen sensor would go and just rodded the matrix out, problem solved.
  2. The air filter is off and the timing was right on with both distys. I have always had the return line right before the regulator on a tee. Both of my webers have a blanked off boss opposite the fuel inlet where you would ordinarily put a fuel return. I have the Mr Gasket regulator, it's definitely possible the regulator is suddenly not doing it's job after so long.
  3. Hi Jono, yeah all brand new plugs were sooty black from less than 10 min of run time. EGR has not been hooked up for years. I have not looked at PCV valve to see if stuck. Definitely running way rich suddenly is what I was thinking too. I don't know if it could be coil issue. A new wire set will include coil lead. I don't see corrosion issue between coil tower and inside coil lead as it is now.
  4. Timing was spot on with both distys. I can try new wires.
  5. I'm stumped at this point. 1984 Brat w/ weber carb with no issues with the carb the last 12 years. Have fuel pressure regulator for weber. With full tank of gas was running fine, drove to 1/2 tank and parked it and the next day runs like crap. Will idle but when you rev it, motor bogs down and sometimes will die. No power to even move it up and down driveway. Changed both fuel filters, cap/rotor. Discovered vac advance was not working so swapped out disty for spare one. Timing is set correctly. Still runs bad. Fuel pump pumps and fills fuel bowl. Pulled spark plugs all were absolutely black. Put new ones in and with brat running for all of 5-10 mins with me reving motor and it running like crap, pulled new plugs and they all were black. Was thinking problem with primary circuit of carb dumping in gas ?? Got weber rebuild kit in it and reset float height, didn't see anything blocked in any jets or anything weird, still acted the same way upon restart. I'm moving this next week and need the brat running so I panic and order a new weber. Put it on today and brat still runs the same. Will start and idle no problem but when I rev the throttle you can actually see gas droplets flying up through the primary barrel into the air. When you rev it also makes kinda a farting sound which it also did with old carb ?? Definitely not the normal sound. No vacuum leaks anywhere. I don't have a compression gauge. What am I overlooking ?? Thank you in advance !!!!---Brian
  6. Hey Jacob, I did some more digging through my stack of receipts for the Brat and the kit I have is the one listed #K1-353-OU for the 4WD GL not the 4wd wagon which is the 413#, the dia. is different. Sorry about that ---Brian

  7. Watch the WRC round when they do the Rally of Finland, all the cars have very skinny rubber, cutting through the snow is better than the wide footprint.
  8. Hey Hatchsub, is it pretty straightforward to replace the bushings or do you have to mess with resetting the throttle plates, etc.---Brian
  9. 84SOOB

    Need Brat opinions

    I think mine looks way better without the canopy on it. I use to take it off for the summer months before I moved to place where I don't have anywhere to put it. Check out my photos in the above link, there some pics with and w/o--Brian
  10. 84SOOB

    Need Horn wiring help

    Thanks for the reply guys, I'll have time on Sun to mess with it more---Brian
  11. I decided to replace my horns on my '84 BRAT, picked up a set from a big Chevy sedan at the PAP. The new horns only had one spade terminal on them but had a spot for them so I soldered on the spade terms so they looked exactly like the Soob horns that I was removing. I mounted them in the same spots and when I reattached the neg battery cable I get constant horn. So of the 2 wires going to the horns I unplug the green w/ blk stripe one from both horns and try again only to get constant horn. I'm confused, what am I overlooking oh wiring gurus?? Thanks, in advance.
  12. I've been wanting to replace my futuristic el-strange-o steering wheel in my '84 Brat. I wanted a Momo because they are leather covered and are also flat with no dish to the wheel. Grant wheels are plastic covered and have a dish to them. I'm 6'2" and don't want the wheel any closer to me, the hub adapter is going to take up space so I want the wheel kept preferably in the stock location. I picked up the Momo wheel model (Race) I liked from Ebay for $70 (retails $220) in nearly perfect shape with the horn and horn retaining ring. Momo no longer makes hub adapters for us Gen 2 folks so you either have to wait for a used one to pop up or do what I did and go online and order a Grant hub adapter (model #6596 $37.99) and a Grant's Momo to Grant adapter plate(model #4009 $18.99) the kits contain 99.95% of the hardware you will need and follow the "two wire" instructions from Grant. I ordered from www.performancecenter.com for these prices. Some of the pics are a bit out of focus but you will get the idea. If the pics don't show, you may have to be registered and logged in with the USMB. I made sure my steering wheel was straight when I pulled into the garage, disconnect the neg terminal of your battery, pull your horn cover off and put a mark on the steering shaft to locate the top when the wheel is straight. Lock your steering wheel like you are parking the car and remove the 17mm nut, then wiggle the wheel off the steering shaft. Mine came off the shaft fairly easily. Here is a pic with the horn cover off: The Grant hub adapter has the top arrow marking as well so slide it over the splines of the steering shaft as near to your mark on the shaft, you may have to try couple of different splines to get it to match up as good as possible and then reinstall your 17mm nut. Here is the pic of the Grant adapter mounted: Here is a hub comparison pic, on the one on the left they are trying to prevent you from drilling and tapping your own pattern. But on the Grant hub I could drill and tap it for the Momo wheel and not use Grant's Momo to Grant adapter plate if I wanted. Here is a pic of the adapter plate mounted on the hub, it also has the top arrow to line up: Slide the provided plastic boot over the hub assembly,then put your horn button into the horn retaining ring and put it into your Momo wheel. Attach the white horn wire to the center spade on the back of the horn button. Then you must supply a short length of wire with a spade terminal on one end to attach to the outer terminal on the horn button and then I just stripped a short bit of the insulation off the other end, so when I put the wheel on the hub assembly the bare bit of exposed wire would get sandwiched between them. Mount the wheel with supplied allen head screws and the tranformation is done. Connect your battery and test your horn. If your wheel is a bit off from dead center an alignment shop can adjust the tie rods to correct it. Finished look from my eye level and normal driving position: The adapter plate makes the steering wheel 1/2" closer than normal, still easy to reach the turn signal stalk but it is noticeable. I don't know if I'll keep it this way or I will take it apart and drill and tap the Grant hub so I can delete the adapter plate. The Momo wheel is thick and very sporty feeling. Steering is a bit heavier parking since I don't have power steering, this Momo wheel is a smaller diameter than the stock wheel. It doesn't block my view of the tach and speedo in my normal driving position either. Two words for you "leather gooooood". For a few more pics of the install see my album in the PHOTOS section---84SOOB
  13. Holy Cow Ed, I keep my eyes peeled. It also makes me want to install a hidden ignition kill switch on the Brat.--Brian
  14. I got mine from Addco (swaybars.com) based in N.C. - was about $175 (incl. shipping)with poly-urethane bushings rather than the rubber ones. The bad part, I had to wait a year to get it. For this old of a Soob they don't stock it so I had to wait for their research & development dept. to get around to making one. This was before I found out about Ken's retrofit of the EA82 bars--I would have gone with this method, way cheaper and no wait.---Brian
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