gunablue

Here's my $.02 - The window in a window takes some getting used to with the black trim that separates the two sections of glass. One you adjust to that (only took me a few days) it's fine. You can have the window down and you don't get a lot of buffeting like you do in a "normal" car. For me the PITA for me is drive thru windows and toll booths....but that's because I have Orangutan arms......aside from that, this is by far the best car that I have ever owned. My first (a 92)was totalled due to an accident. I got my second (a 95) 5 years ago and have every intention of being buried in it. check out www.subaru-svx.net for more info......there's one guy there with 12 SVX's at last count.......

Hello all, I just brought my XT6 home this weekend and am preparing it for PA state inspection. The problem is part of my center driveshaft support has rusted away and I need it fixed. I cannot weld and don't know anyone who can. I've called around but everyone that I've talked to needs to look at it. I'm hesitant to drive it anywhere else until I can get this fixed, but every place I call wants to look at it. If there is anyone out there who can fix this or tell me who can at a resonable price, I would greatly appreciate it. You can respond to this posting or email me at solrwind at yahoo.com (you can fill in the @ sign - too many spam emails already). I'm willing to travel a bit, but prefer something relatively local. Bobby

After what appears to be the week from hell, I thought it was ending on a good note. One of my pulley's seized last sunday and left me stranded. THe next day my alternator belt on my svx broke. Anyway, my problem is after having the damaged parts replaced including timing belt, my car won't start. They said that I'm not getting a spark. Where do I begin to figure this out? Pep Boys had done a no start diag on the car earlier in the week, so it's possible that they screwed up something(long story). I've checked all of the connections and everything seems fine. Would fouled spark plugs cause this problem? or possibly the coil pack? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!! If anyone is local and can help, I'd be eternally grateful. The car is in Brookhaven, PA right now. Thanks!!

If it's a 4 door sedan you would be referring to the Galant VR4. It was on the same platform as the Eclipse and had the 2 liter turbo'd engine and came with a 5 spd. It was their answer to the Legacy turbo....pretty sweet rides from what I understand....although some were problematic....they were only made in 91 and 92 if I remember correctly......but back to your question, they were awd and had the 4 wheel steering.....

My opinion is to make sure you get a good one!! I bought mine pretty cheap ($600), but it needed quite a bit of work. IF you get one that's well taken care of, they're great cars. If you get one that wasn't, it could be a headache unless you're mechanically inclined. I actually enjoy driving it more than my SVX and our WRX. The fact that it's a total sleeper is the icing on the cake. I've spent about $3k getting it to it's present condition which includes a new engine and tranny. In hindsight, I should have waited a bit longer for the right one, but overall I'm still happy with my car. Be sure to look out for rust. Luckily mine has very little rust because it came from WV. It now runs like a dream and I wouldn't get rid of it for anything. Yes the gas mileage is crappy if you do a lot of in town driving. Highway driving I average about 25 mpg and I've gotten as high as 28 mpg ( with a light foot). Check out http://bbs.legacycentral.org for more information on the turbo's. It's a great site that I refer to quite often when I need info. Good luck, Bobby

Hello, I'm getting error code 23 along with codes 22,15, and 17. I just had an engine with 85k installed last week. My mechanic used all of the old parts from my old engine that he could. He said that he noticed that one of the tubes from the MAF was sealed shut. I have taken a picture of the tube in question, as well as the canister it's coming from. The tube is coming from the bottom of the cannister. I disconnect the maf and reconnected it and my check engine light went off. When I took it out for a drive the c/e light went off and the car drove DRASTICALLY better. Before I had little power below 3k rpms, but for a brief period it ran like a raped ape. Now it's back to the way it was. My question is should this tube be sealed shut like it is and if not, where does it go? Should I replace my MAF sensor? OH one more thing, would the maf sensor failure cause the other codes? Please help!! I've spent more money in this car than I'm going to admit to and the other half is about ready to divorce me over this!! By the way this is on the Legacy turbo!! http://public.fotki.com/solrwind/our_cars/goopy_tube_1.html the second picture http://public.fotki.com/solrwind/our_cars/mafgoopytube1.html _________________

this is the one I posted about in another message. It's a looker I'll give it that. Brattysvx and I looked at it last night. This thing definately has rust issues and he's definately on some amish crack if the thinks that he's gonna get $1300 for it. Then again, that's just my opinion. The trans did also seem to be slipping. He'd have to come WAY down on the price for me to consider it....and he didn't really seem to want to do that as he put a $400 fuel tank in it..........I'll stick with my Leg turbo and just buy an old s 10 (gasp) or something......

I've got two burning questions....... I have the chance to buy a brat with under 100k for about $1300. Is that a good deal? It's automatic and doesn't have t tops. Body rust is minimal as far as I can see and it's an 85. What should I offer if everything is ok? What should I look for as far as problem areas? Next question, I have a 92 Legacy turbo that I bought several months ago. It's got 175k on it and ran like a top. It's got a new tranny, tires, water pump,front seals,timing belt, right cv joint, muffler. As of the last week, it's developed a tapping problem in the engine and it doesn't make much power. I'm not sure what the problem is, but my mechanic doesn't think it's anything serious. It starts right up and idles normally, but you can hear the valves/pistons moving on the drivers side. I'd have to sell it in order to buy the brat. What should I ask for it in it's present state? Thanks!! Bobby