paulbellefeuille

Excellent idea! Thanks

Howdy! My neighbor has inherited his dad's 2003 Forester with 140,000 on the clock. He's asking $4300 for it and I'm willing to offer him $3500. He'll consider any reasonable offers. Here's the thing.. It needs tires and he's not sure if the timing belt has been done. I'm pretty sure that the belt has been done but I'm wondering about the head gaskets. The oil is nice and clean on the stick.. and the puke tank looks okay. My bigger concern is since it hasn't been run in awhile could the head gaskets dry out and cause trouble? As always I value your opinions.. Thanks!!

Many years ago..at least 8.. I was stripping out a couple of Subaru Legacy wagons for parts.. their drive trains pretty much toast. Well I was looking thru my stash of parts and found two trays that I think went in the back... but where? Here are a couple of pictures.. They have notches in them for the cargo cover.. I guess.. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!

Okay here's one that probably comes up alot but since I don't get a chance to come by here very often I thought I'd ask. My wife's '99 Impreza with 85,000 on it just had the CEL come on for code PO440. Evaporation system. I changed the gas cap and the light remains on. I don't hear any vacuum leaks when the hood is up. So I put the question out to you all. What could the problem be?

thanks for all your help. it appears that the 'quick fix' was indeed what happened.

My wife recently bought a 1999 Impreza wagon with 77,000 miles on it. Private sale. I noticed that the brakes were a little soft so today I decided to do a brake job on it. I was surprised to find that it had drum brakes in the back. Here's where it gets weird. The front right pads were completely worn out and they were original Subie pads. The driver's side had replacement pads from Autozone and they looked almost new. The rear shoes were almost new. What puzzles me most is why only the left front pads were replaced and why didn't they exhibit more wear? Were the right fronts doing all the work? The car didn't pull when the brakes were applied; I just thought that they needed to be done due to a soft pedal.

Thanks very much! I'll try it this week.!

Howdy! My wife just bought a '99 Impreza wagon.. not Outback.. with 77,000 miles on it.. really. My question is how do you adjust the rear doors? The top of the right rear door is sticking out just enough to create a wind noise and the trim sticks out as well. The bottom of the door is also too far inward. It's a sweet car once we get the cigarette smoke smell out of it.

The right side was WORSE than the left side..lol.. I covered the top of the caliper and the caliper boot with a cloth soaked in Evapo-Rust. I also placed a heat lamp on it for a few days. The heat lamp was used because the stuff works best in 60 degree plus temperatures and night have been down to 20 degrees. After a couple of days, the Evapo-Rust did its job and the caliper slid right off. Thankfully the rear brakes were fine.. just had to clean up the slides and re-lube everything with some of that Permatex Ultra-Disc Brake Caliper Lube.. It works great!

Thanks! I went to Advance and picked one up! Yaaaaayy!! Now on to the next wheel.....

Thanks!

I bought the Evapo-Rust at Autozone. $19.99 for a gallon. Available in quart size at Autozone too. Now the next issue is getting a new boot for the end of the pin.. Dealers want $29.00 to $32.00 for the complete set of boots and seals for 1 caliper.... "Sorry sir you have to buy the set.." I saw some made by Carlson for $5.00 on-line. Does anyone have experience with Carlson rubber products??

Well.. here's what I did.. unconventional but it worked and I did it with very little heat, no PB Blaster or anything caustic.. A few weeks ago I started using Evapo-Rust on my 1955 Packard Clipper and found that it worked incredibly well but you had to soak everything in order for the rust to dissolve. Evapo-Rust is actually an enzyme that eats iron oxide better known as rust.. I wrapped the caliper with a rag that I soaked in Evapo-Rust and let it sit for a few days. I also covered the rag with plastic to help keep the stuff from drying out. This morning I went out removed the rag and tapped the caliper with a hammer. I didn't have to wail on it.. Remember now this thing was frozen and I tried beating the crap out of it but to no avail.. After a few taps the caliper slid off of the pin..free as can be! The cost? Well about 50 cents worth of Evapo-rust and few days of patience. The stuff works best at 60 degrees and I put one of those warming lamps with the aluminum shade and a 100 watt light bulb. We've had over night temps below 30 this week and some rain so I could only use the lamp for a few night. I took pictures of the process and will post them later..

Yes you are correct and thank you for your input. the main issue is getting the caliper OFF of the pin. I'm going out to check on everything since I sprayed the pin again before quitting last night, and will report back. Thanks again to all of you!

I'll try compressing it even further. It seems to be all the way in. It's the edge of the caliper body that is hitting the outside pad..just enough to prevent it from slipping all the way down. When I took the old pads off the inside pad was thinner than the outside one. We just got the car the other day from a wholesaler and knew that the brakes needed work. Thanks for your suggestions!