KNGCWLL

I hoped it was something like that, I wish I had seen it sooner so I could have done it when everything was still out of the car... whatever... The car's actually in Kitsap with a buddy so there would be ferries involved.... But I'm nearly done now and haven't really been hurried or stressed - just takes time and I can only look at it once a week between real work and other stuff. So it goes. But thanks though, if I can't get it running or I hit serious issues later I'll let you know!

I'm just about to finish swapping the d/r tranny from a 85 gl into a 92 loyale which had the push button. I thought it was almost completely bolt-on and everything went smoothly until I went to re-connect the transmission wiring and THEN saw that the plugs were different (of course I didn't notice when the transmission was out of the car ...). The new d/r tranny has one white 6 point plug and the loyale has one white 4 point plug and one black 2 point plug. I read this thread and jj421 's thread and I watched most of MilesFox 's ea82 videos and couldn't find anything. jj421 mentioned the issue but it was never fully addressed. Is there any easy way to swap the wiring - un plug something from the firewall or from further back on the transmission and just swap the wiring in from the other car? Or will I have to cut out some plugs and splice in the proper ones? Also If this is just a backup light / telling the car whether I'm in 4wd, should I be able to skip this step for now and get the car started to work out the bumps (I did other engine work during the swap) then worry about the lights once I'm ready for the road? Thanks yall, and special shouts out to MilesFox 's videos. USMB always saves me asstons of time and cussing.

One of the wheels was significantly more floppy than the other, the passenger side actually seemed like it even would hold up the car if I lowered it and the driver's side was clearly just hanging there by magic. I ended up rolling it with the 3 quasi-legitimate wheels on and a floor jack on the other side. Later when I looked closer at the hubs, I noticed that the driver's side was missing that seal that fits around the rotor and possibly part of the bearing or whatever's behind that. I found it stuck on the end of the one of the axles. I don't even know how that would happen... maybe it was put together wrong? Is there a similar seal on the other side of the hub that may have popped off with the axle and the part on the rotor side just happens to also be missing? Excuse my lack of experience, I'm new to this car and I usually mess around with the motor and stay away from the suspension for the most part. I'm out of town for the week but I'll post a picture or two when I get back.

I was thinking of the pipe w/ bolts and washer idea, less banging, quick and easy, but I wanted to see if there was anything better. One trip to the hardware store may take a little longer than banging the trashed axles back in but if I have to beat it out again later and then in again..... maybe too much hammering for me. I like that idea, I'll probably do that when I swap the new axles on the new car because now I'm paranoid, the GL's suspension is generally in better condition, and I am getting really really really tired of hitting things. Really? So don't even do anything? That surprises me, I put the wheel on and it felt like it was just hanging there by the brakes, I don't even know what would be holding up the car. But I don't want to over simplify it, if that works I'll do it.

I'm swapping the working motor, better transmission, intact front axles and some other misc. parts out of my shitty broken GL into a way cleaner Loyale that I just got with a blown motor. I pulled the first motor and transmission from the Loyale no problem. Usually when I replace front axles I bang on them with a sledge hammer until I want to kill myself then bang more and they come out but this time they were extra stuck and I ended up damaging the spindle in the process on both sides. They were busted and flinging grease etc so I wasn't worried, like I said I planned to take the good ones from the other car. HOWEVER I need to move the Loyale so I can get the GL in the garage to pull that motor. I wanted to just roll the Loyale out and drive the GL in but when I went to go put the front wheels on, I noticed that without the axles, there is nothing holding the rotor to the hub (besides the caliper just holding it in place). So I'm 99% sure I can't move anything without putting the axles back in. Buut like I said, I massacred the spindles so I cant screw the crown bolt on to get the axle back on. So my two questions are: 1. Is there any way to get the axles back in without the crown bolt? I'm not going anywhere, it just needs to roll like 20 feet. 2. Is there anything I can do besides putting the axles back in to get the car to move? I feel like I'm not the first one to have this problem, maybe I am. The alternative is slowly rolling the Loyale out using a floor jack or pulling the GL motor in the rain and putting everything including axles back into the Loyale so it will move but that leaves the GL with the same issue, parked in my drive way with no front wheels.

I just put the EA82 in my 88 GL back together after a blown head gasket and now the engine runs fine but it's having idling problems that it didn't have before I took it apart (several months went by between starting and finishing, busy with other stuff). I have drained the tank of old gas and replaced it with about a half a tank of new gas and sea foam, changed the fuel filter in the back by the tank, and blew the carb out with some carb cleaner and sea foam. All of that helped a lot but none of it fully fixed the problem. Basically I was hoping it was just bad gas / something simple that would just clear up on it's own, but it doesn't seem to be. When I adjust the throttle (the only thing I touched when I took everything apart for the head gasket) so it idles at around 1000, it's fine until next time I start the car, then it's way too low or way too high. Literally just turning the car off then on again. I played with it and cleaned the carb more (without taking it out) and once the car was warmed up and was idling in a more predictable way and revving normally, I took it down the driveway and the accelerator kept sticking, every time I use the gas pedal, the engine only returns to around 2000 rpms until I lift up on the pedal with my foot. Maybe I have a sticky pedal, throttle cable, or accelerator; maybe carb dirt; maybe something dirty still happening in the gas tank or earlier in the fuel system. I have very limited cash and time otherwise I would be into doing more hunting or taking the time to properly clean the carburetor. Should I: Keep hunting for the sticky gas pedal problem? Take the carb all the way off and take it all apart and thoroughly clean it? Or would it be easier to just get a rebuilt carb and replace it? I have only cleaned little outboard boat motor carbs and a motorcycle carb once and I'm afraid of taking it apart and wasting too much time and not getting it back together properly. Would it work to get a used one off a EA82 at a junkyard / online or am I likely to have the same problem / more issues? What are other variables I am ignorant to? I'm new to Subarus and suck at carburetors, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Let me know if there are any helpful pictures I could take or any other information I can provide. Thanks

Location: Kitsap County, Washington. (Apologies)

Just finished up some engine swapping and have an extra EA82 engine and a lot of engine parts. Including: - Short block 100$ OBO (NOT rebuilt. about 150k miles, cylinders are clean almost no ridge, was running, doesn't even need rebuild - just put back together) - Heads 25$ each OBO (needs valve job) - Long block 140$ OBO - Oil pump - Water pump - All pulleys - Valve covers - Some timing belt covers and the tensioners - Flywheel - Oil pan -Engine mounts - Ask if you don't see the part you're looking for, I may have it NO -Alternator - Intake manifold - Carburetor - Transmission - Radiator - Power steering - AC - Distributor email chasewell@gmail.com I can give you pictures or more history or information about any of these parts. Suggest a price for the little stuff if you are interested, let me know if you want the engine for a different price and we will discuss (via email)

All the cracks were right in between the valves. I poured solvent in the intake and exhaust to see if there was anything leaking out through cracks to see if they were just on the surface or not. The old ones were solid and the new ones had some leaks through the valves, not through the cracks. So I think I am just going to use the old heads. Thanks a lot everyone!

I recently bought a 1985 GL (my first Subaru!) with a blown head gasket and began taking the motor apart and resealing it. Before I put the heads back on, I sent them to my local Napa auto parts store to get them resurfaced and checked for cracks and warping. I've sent in dozens of heads and they have always come back with a shiny new surface and no cracks but this time one of the heads was cracked and they were unable to resurface either of the heads. Although it was a pain in the butt, I didn't think it was that big of a deal and had probably happened when the gasket blew. I pulled heads from a junk Loyale with half the miles which apparently run but had a timing belt problem before it was scrapped. No blown head gaskets or motor problems as far as I could tell. Before I put them on my motor I once again sent them in to get checked and resurfaced. This time both heads were cracked. Before I hunt down another set of heads, and have the SAME thing happen a third time, am I making some sort of mistake? Do I just have really bad luck so far? Is there some reason I shouldn't be getting them checked? Are Subaru heads naturally very very fragile? Both Engines are EA82, my car's not turbo. The Loyale had too much missing to tell if it was turbo or not.