rx7speed

Just got the car back home. Dizzy rotor rotates with engine nice and smooth with no skips jumps or jerks. the dizzy is nice. It's also nice and tight and bolted into place so it isn't moving very easily . Then I moved the rotor by hand and noticed it just rotated and rotated and... pulled right off. Think I found the screw you all are talking about. I have never seen something like that before. Every car I have ever worked on before always has a flat spot in the rotor to prevent it from rotating on it's own. First car I've ever seen where the rotor is held in place by a screw. Easy easy fix though in the end. So in the end you all are wonderful thank you very much :-)

I'll check this out hopefully either tomorrow or saturday at the latest. Car still isn't home yet as I have no way to tow it. If nothing else if I can't get it home I might at least head out tomorrow to take a look at it see if I can get some more info as the sooner I can fix this bad boy the better as I only have one week left on my job and I do not want to get fired only to lose severance/medical. To change belts does it require removal of engine? If not does anything else other then the covers need to be removed? And how does one make sure to get the timing right? NorthWet backfire is new "Feature" started only once the car just straight out lost power. This happened with no warning or anything just one moment I had power next car was dead. When cranking there is no attempt to start either. Seems to be no speed up, slow down or anything like that when cranking. Only thing I have noticed is sometimes it just won't turn but not sure if thta is related to situation or something else going on as battery might of been getting low.

Car has about 168k on it and it's an 89 GL wagon. We have owned it for about 5 years give or take but only put about 13k miles on it so far. Unknown when belts changed last. Was driving home from work earlier and after getting of the freeway I Sat at the light for a moment and then turned green hit the gas and went for a moment then car just dies. The go go pedal just doesn't do anything. Try to turn the engine over and it turns but doesn't even sound like it is trying to start. I know if I put the foot to the floor and turn the engine I get backfire sounds comming from engine bay. Every now and then when turning the engine over it wouldn't even turn over and had to click the starter a couple times then it would turn over again just like normal but still no attempt at actually starting. Sadly didn't have much time to check it out as it's about oh 10 degrees or so outside right now, and have no tools so we just moved it off the street and will deal with it over the weekend. Does this sound like timing belt or something else might be the issue? If it is belt how hard are they to change, do you have to take the engine out or can you leave it in place, and is there some sort of guide for it or any special tools required. Also as a side question what is the difference between the GL10 and the straight GL?

are the front and rear diffs open diffs then? don't want to cause wear on them

can do and thank you all for the help. just curious is the center in the car clutch or locker based?

Double checked my tread and think I might of found my problem. Swear I saw the same on fron and back but seems I was wrong. Fronts are border line "racing" tires aka redneck slicks, and the rears while close will cover about half way up lincolns head on a penny. Granted not a huge difference but might be enough.

that's what is currently on there right now on all four corners.

Checked tire pressure. All tires came out low but about the same +/- 1-2 psi. Did inflate them all up to the pressure listed on the door tag of 28psi for all four corners. Tires are all of same manufacture, model, and size. Tread though is quite heavily worn I admit and chances are they do need replaced but by eye at least seems to be about the same depth. l75eya only real time I use the switch is on snow and very very rare on dirt. There isn't enough power in the car to make the rear end slide around and become unstable on dry/wet ground at any speed or any power. Lol hell this this can't even spin the tires in 2wd mode on dry ground and can hardly get a slight chirp out of them on wet, so yeah it's not me driving around on dry/wet surface but only snow or ice that I'm having this problem. Granted I admit I have turned the switch on in the dry but time was VERY limited and more for a curiousity moment but that was after this all started happening. When I did so though there was no clunks, no bangs, no uneven action from the rear end that I manage to get with the snow. It was all nice and smooth. That is mainly why I did it was due to the issues I have on snow and was trying to see if it would respond on dry the same or at least give some indication that something was wrong.

Have an 89 GL that is a three speed auto with user selectable awd by a little push button on the shifter. When driving in 2wd it does just fine but when I engage awd the car becomes very unstable. It's almost at that point if the rear end wants to start sliding out even if going in a straight line and almost feels at times if I'm on snow that it is like someone else is either tapping the gas/brake for just the rear wheels only. So far about the only good the awd does for me is the intial take off and once I hit about 10mph I have to shut the awd off or I'm all over the road. Honestly even a RWD car seems to be more stable then this thing and I'm just stumped as to what it is or what is causing this, can someone please offer some advice?